Exactly what did you do and how did you do it? I’m sure others would like to know.
The Hydraulic Block is right below the Oil filter.
I thank Dave at Dave tractor for telling me to use a 27 MM socket, 1/2" Drive with 3" extension and a breaker bar to remove the relief valve.
I used an 0.035" thin stainless washer, about 11/16" OD. and a dab of grease to holt it in the top of the cap.
This gave me about 2400 psi pressure, so I backed off the relief in the loader valve to drop the pressure to a bit over the high side of the tolerance. The spec range of the pressure is 2060 to 2130 PSI. I set the relief on the loader to 2200 PSI at about 1500 RPM. All in all, I only increased the pressure 300 PSI but it makes enough of a difference the loader seems right for the size of the Max28. On a good note. the pressure only changed 50-100 PSIG between idle and 2500 RPM, indicating the pump internal tolerances are not recirculating much.
Without ballast, if you pick up a load on the corner of the bucket, one rear tire comes off ground. If a load is in the center, the rears stay on ground and the loader goes into relief. The engine & oil pump do not strain with the hydraulics going into relief. Given the size of the tractor, that's all I can expect.
Removable ag type loaders are flexi so I'm not going to be reckless banging into immoveable objects or drive into pliesr eal hard. The Loader on the
L39 is far more rigid, as it is part of a sub frame and this will do the heavy lifting around my place.
Now that thats taken care of, I really need to get my combination 3 Pt. QA hitch, removeable counter weight, tow-draw bar, middle buster, ripper shank, tool boxes, sprayer tank holder, and TOOL CARRIER welded together. I nearly ran over my chain saw as it bounced out of the bucket. Never carry anything valuable moving fast in the bucket.