Metal Cutting Saw

   / Metal Cutting Saw
  • Thread Starter
#71  
Interesting this thread has a split personality - part of it adapting RAS to metal cutting, part of it proper use of RAS generally. I stopped using the tool 20 years ago in favor of other (in my view easier and safer) ways to cut wood. I got this DeWalt recently for pretty much the opposite reason. To see if it would be better for some metal cutting tasks than other alternatives. I am not sure it actually is better, but it does what I wanted it to do, and (as modified) safely. My current practice, which reflects feedback from all, is to clamp the workpiece, and draw the saw into the work in recommended RAS way. Using the lead screw to move the motor head. All suggestions for further functional and safety improvements are welcome.

So, on the last part of JJs question. I think the front-located magnet idea is a good one. The shroud I made does a pretty good job of keeping chips on the table, but anything to better manage the chips is worth trying. I am thinking of two other modifications. A rubber flap, that could stay right on the surface of the material, might help, especially in front, where JJ is suggesting a magnet could be placed. Also, I am thinking of routing a slot through the table where the blade travels, and installing a pan underneath. That might better contain the chips that travel with the blade.

Now on the first part of JJs question. You might learn more about our family than you wanted. I already asked my brother in law what the prevailing practice is, and he told me. So if I go back to him and ask for documentation suggesting he might be wrong, that will make him grumpy. Then my sister will get involved, and then we have a problem. Right now I am trying to talk them into moving back to California, so the whole thing would be a mess. That's a long way of saying why I don't want to go back to him on the radial arm saw question, but not to brush off the question.

To get some perspective on RAS practice I explored a bit. It turns out there are dozens of good threads on the woodworking sites. The points we have discussed are there, and more. I was surprised to learn so many people continue to use - and debate - a tool I personally thought was obsolete a couple decades ago.

Well now I am going to go see if I can fit a laser to my donut and get it into the coffee cup more accurately.
 
   / Metal Cutting Saw #72  
"see if I can fit a laser to my donut and get it into the coffee cup more accurately"

Good one, Pat - and here I thought you weren't paying attention... :D
 
   / Metal Cutting Saw #73  
------------- Also, I am thinking of routing a slot through the table where the blade travels, and installing a pan underneath. That might better contain the chips that travel with the blade.
------------------------------------
Do it to it! :thumbsup:

That is the way my metal cutting saw is made. It has a chip drawer under the slot. You pull it out from the back to dump the metal chips.
P4130011.JPG 14 inch DRY CUT SAW (Medium).jpg
 
   / Metal Cutting Saw #75  
Any time you are cutting metal with a circular blade of any kind, you need eye/face protection.

Harbor Freight has 7-1/4" metal cutting carbide tipped blades they sell for $20. I use them in an old Black & Decker circular saw & in a Harbor Freight 10" compound miter saw that has a piece of OSB with a 2x2 fastened on the back to allow the blade to reach through the metal. Take your time & you can get great accurate, repeatable, angled cuts. Note: Carbide tipped metal cutting blades are for mild steel & other soft metals they do not like cutting through torched & welded areas.

Soft metals like brass, copper, & aluminum have been cut with standard carbide tipped blade by contractors for years.

The only thing I use a RAS for any more is making dado cuts for shelving. You are able to have it cut a set depth & width with a single pass. Because of the volume of the bite & the shallow depth, the risk for climbing has greatly multiplied so trying to pull it into the wood is not an option. You have to push it into the wood. I can cut dado's at a 1/4 of the time it takes with a router & jig.
 

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   / Metal Cutting Saw #76  
Hi -

You should be using a negative rake dado blade if you are going to use it in a radial arm saw. A positive rake blade is made for a traditional circular or table saw, not a radial arm saw. For example: Freud Tools - Super Dado Sets have a -12 degree angle on the cutting face.
 
   / Metal Cutting Saw #77  
You are correct, but even using a negative rake dado, I still greatly prefer pushing it into the wood.
 
   / Metal Cutting Saw
  • Thread Starter
#78  
Totally agree on face mask for metal cutting, picture in post #62 shows it hanging on the saw. I'm even thinking about a leather apron which will be a first for me.

Used to make dados on RAS. Agree on negative hook for radial saw. I don't remember what I was using except it came from Sears. Anyway it was just about impossible to dado by pulling vs OK pushing. Eventually I made up a European style sliding table and extended miter fence for my table saw, and used that. Never tried using RAS as a router for shelf slots, I imagine it would work well though.
 
   / Metal Cutting Saw #79  
I like the conversion to a metal cutting RAS, nice work. I had thought of doing something like this using a bridge type tile saw.

So bottom line I still use my old RAS a lot, but I sure use the other saws when they are much better for a particular purpose.

All I use my RAS for now-a-days is cutting dados. I keep a dado set mounted in there set for 3/4 plywood.
Whenever I need to cut a dado across a board within the crosscut capacity of my RAS that is what I use.
It saves me from having to mount a dado set in the TS and its faster and the cut is visible since you're
working on the top side of the board not the underside. Making half laps are also easy and fast on the RAS.
 
   / Metal Cutting Saw #80  
Lots of interesting reading in this thread...
There is still contention as to the safest method for using a radial arm saw...
I still pull the saw into the work piece and go at it slow and easy...
In my experience I leave my RAS set up square and use it only for straight cuts or dado's...
Too aggravating to set up for miters...
I think that years ago manufacturers built the RAS around the premise that it was a do-it-all saw for the homeowner...
Cross cutting, ripping, mitering, dado's, etc...could all be done on it...
With the advent of the sliding miter saw, the RAS has fell out of favor...
I still use mine but today but the sliding miter saw and table saw and more useful...

As far as metal cutting chop saws...
I purchased a harbor freight special last year and it has performed very well...
The blade is key as I have to change it out when needed...
I inherited an old Buffalo Tools metal cutting band saw from my dad that is over 30 years old...
With it and my cheapo harbor freight metal cutting saw I can take care of most anything that I need to cut...
On larger stuff I use the torch...
 

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