Metal cutting??????

[Power2ll]

I use mainly stock but using plate would expand my possibility. By your answer in guessing a plasma is primarily for plate.

 

[Power2ll]

This is actually my first time to ask a ? On here but I can tell this is a very hand site. I'm new to the forum

 

[Power2ll]

Build yourself a power hacksaw.

What is a power hacksaw

 

[Power2ll]

If you want to get real serious about metal cutting, get a plasma CNC cutting table.

It can also do woodwork projects, etch glass, etc.

That just sounds expensive

 

[Power2ll]

Metal fabrication is just like wood working- it takes many tools to cover many tasks, to complete one project. No one cutting tool will do it all. You may find one, like a band saw or a sawzall that will do a lot of it, but it won't do everything neatly, and it can get expensive over time (sawzall blades, for instance). You will need some different tools, if you want to do the job well, effecient, and cost effective. It takes money to make money, and it takes tools, plural, to do the job. I have a small fabrication business, and I use a portaband and an Evolution chop saw the most, along with my grinder/flap disc. I also have a sawzall, plasma cutter, cutting wheels, die grinder, hydraulic press, drill press, and my welders. The welding is usually the shortest part of the process- manipulation/preparation of the metal takes the time, and is the most important part of the job.
So, if you saw fit to invest $1500+ in a good welder, you will need to do it justice and start investing in other tools.

. I have a Milwaukee chop saw but it is again to cut angles and it is extremely messy. I really think I need a band saw maybe a 4x6. But not sure if I need a wet cut or not. Any advise?

 

[Shield Arc]

. But not sure if I need a wet cut or not. Any advise?

Be real careful buying dry cut saws. I have an Ellis which is dry cut. I was really concerned about that before buying. I asked a lot of questions on welding, and tool forums. I've had mine for almost 6-years. I can go 10-months on one blade. But in an industrial setting who knows how long the blades would last. Every steel supplier I've been to have very large HE&M saws which are wet cut.

 

[DAD1220]

I cut angle, round and bar with plasma. As long as you have the power for the thickness.

 

[IslandTractor]

Lots of options already mentioned. As usual it depends on what job you are doing, where you are doing it and how much money you have to spend. Plasma on a CNC table is pretty sweet looking. Laser and water cut systems are way out of hobbiest or tradesman price range. Handheld plasma makes real nice cuts and can be reasonably affordable. Oxyfuel is the tried and true and very versatile method in the field especially. Bandsaw is a must for a serious fabrication shop. Iron worker is fantastic for rod and angle iron. Chop saw is probably the cheapest for materials that can be fit. One other option not mentioned yet is a portaband saw which is very nice for cutting pipe and other lengths of steel in the field. You can get small tables (SWAG) that mount the portaband to work like an upright bandsaw or a different table (Milwaukee) that makes it work like a chop saw too.

 

[jmc]

Be real careful buying dry cut saws. I have an Ellis which is dry cut. I was really concerned about that before buying. I asked a lot of questions on welding, and tool forums. I've had mine for almost 6-years. I can go 10-months on one blade. But in an industrial setting who knows how long the blades would last. Every steel supplier I've been to have very large HE&M saws which are wet cut.

I like the way you jacked that saw up to a level that was comfortable for you instead of having to bend over excessively when using it.

When I had a shop, I avoided coolant like the plague since, back then, the coolant would get rancid, especially if you didn't run the machine every day. Coolant additives may have advanced since then but on our bandsaw, we picked a middle of the road solution between totally dry and flooded. Someone made a "grease-stick" that was about the size of a grease cartridge, but solid, like a crayon. Every-so-often we would plunge that crayon into the running bandsaw blade and it seemed to help blade life. I think we bought them thru MSC.

 

[Shield Arc]

I like the way you jacked that saw up to a level that was comfortable for you instead of having to bend over excessively when using it.

One of these days I'm going to make a stand for it. I used the timbers just to see if I liked that height. Well it seems as I must like the height.

 

[jwmorris]

These are the 3 band saws I use most.

The old Kysor is automatic or can be used manual. It can cut more than you can prep for welding if you have it setup right but it does let you multitask.

The next is an old Roll In, it is fed by gravity. Very simple, will let you miter and can even be used as a vertical bandsaw. There is not much that can't be done with one of these. I setup a stop switch for this one so I could be doing something else while it worked too.

The last is a portaband with a table for it I picked up new in the box off of craigs list for $70 (just the table).

It is almost as mobile as a chop saw but non abrasive. I made a counter balance off the rear to set cut rate and added a switch so it would shut off as well when the cut is finished. Also drilled and tapped the base for miter cuts. You can also make a stand that will turn them into mini vertical bandsaws.

 

[Scooby074]

These are the 3 band saws I use most.

The old Kysor is automatic or can be used manual. It can cut more than you can prep for welding if you have it setup right but it does let you multitask.

The next is an old Roll In, it is fed by gravity. Very simple, will let you miter and can even be used as a vertical bandsaw. There is not much that can't be done with one of these. I setup a stop switch for this one so I could be doing something else while it worked too.

The last is a portaband with a table for it I picked up new in the box off of craigs list for $70 (just the table).

It is almost as mobile as a chop saw but non abrasive. I made a counter balance off the rear to set cut rate and added a switch so it would shut off as well when the cut is finished. Also drilled and tapped the base for miter cuts. You can also make a stand that will turn them into mini vertical bandsaws.

You got some hard core cutters there

How do you like the Milwalkee portaband on the stand? Is the stand worth it? Last time I checked the stand was $$$, but it is something I'm considering.

 

[IslandTractor]

You got some hard core cutters there <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=310267"/>

How do you like the Milwalkee portaband on the stand? Is the stand worth it? Last time I checked the stand was $$$, but it is something I'm considering.

I also picked up one one the Milwaukee portaband tables off CL used for about $100. It imakes the portaband a whole different tool. I especially like the miter set up jwmorris set up on his. That really increases the utility of the table stand for fabrication.

There is also a very nicely made mini saw table from Swagoffroad that allows the portaband to be set up like a vertical bandsaw. Makes freehand cuts possible and also accepts a sliding miter gauge. Only useful for smallish pieces but nice. They sell several models including one that simple clamps into a vise. I have the one in the photo which cost a bit over $100.

 

[jwmorris]

The portaband is a very usefull tool, even more so if you can weld blades. The stand makes it that much more useful. Worth the $70 I paid for it but I was going to build my own before I found the deal on CL. New they cost more than the saw. The feet are just sections of pipe, so you cut them to the height you want and can break it down for transport quickly.

My nose can't stand much dust, I only use my abrasive saws for hardened materials now. A chop saw is cheap to get into but that is about the only thing good about them.

 

[mjncad]

View attachment 310108 Hard to beat a band-saw. Quiet, precise, doesn't build up heat. Here is mine. A grizzly with swivel head

G9742 5" x 6" Metal-Cutting Bandsaw w/ Swivel Head

James K0UA

I have the same saw, except mine is all Grizzly green. I'm pleased with mine and the price was right.

 

[IslandTractor]

The portaband is a very usefull tool, even more so if you can weld blades. The stand makes it that much more useful. Worth the $70 I paid for it but I was going to build my own before I found the deal on CL. New they cost more than the saw. The feet are just sections of pipe, so you cut them to the height you want and can break it down for transport quickly.

I use mine on a workbench without the legs. Works fine.

Do you have a photo of the counterbalance mechanism you installed. I like the idea of that plus the contact off switch. I've been using the HF foot pedal switch but for heavier cutting it would be nice to set and forget while it does it's thing.

 

[jwmorris]

I use mine on a workbench without the legs. Works fine.

Do you have a photo of the counterbalance mechanism you installed. I like the idea of that plus the contact off switch. I've been using the HF foot pedal switch but for heavier cutting it would be nice to set and forget while it does it's thing.

I'll have to get a pic of the counter balance. If you look at the photo above you will notice a large nut holding the switch in from the bottom near the pivot and a section of angle iron that depresses it when finished (or all the way down). The switch is the one that throws out the cruse control if you push in the clutch, out of an '86 f150.

 

[IslandTractor]

I'll have to get a pic of the counter balance. If you look at the photo above you will notice a large nut holding the switch in from the bottom near the pivot and a section of angle iron that depresses it when finished (or all the way down). The switch is the one that throws out the cruse control if you push in the clutch, out of an '86 f150.

I love the recycling!

 

[jwmorris]

Here is another view of the switch and the counter weight. Its a section of 3/4" bar stock bolted to the bracket that holds the saw and a section of 2" barstock with a 13/16 hole in it so it can slide up and down. The set collar sets it on the shaft.

The other photo is of handy auto torches the one on the left has the circle attachment on it the right one is bevem and the one not mounted is perpendicular cut. The top knob starts the cut and motor, push button on the side is forward or reverse and the knob at the rear is speed control.

 

[jwmorris]

These are simple drag tips. The stamped steel one on the plasma is a factory one the one on the torch I built out of a double split set collar.

The head on the left is a rotating holder for the torch tip for use with the tool in the rear. A magnet holds on the center of the circle or arc and you can extend the radius however long you want.

The other two are small circle jigs for the plasma. Straight cut and bevel cut.