Metal roof installation advice
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schmism
Super Member
MrJimi said:And a 16 foot 2 X 6 will sag/droop/hang-down big time after a very short amount of time
based on TX.... sunshine loads.... 15 psf live, 5 psf dead with a 1.25 duration
2x6-16 SP #2 16" OC works at 75% capacity with a max mid pannel difflection of 1.33"
weedsportpete
Silver Member
I might try my hand at putting up metal on the small porch roof first.....
Does it matter if 29 ga is used vs 26 ga? Is one used more commonly? Do building codes specify which to use? Is one for walls and one for roofs?
We have four roofs on the house.. one has metal from four years ago, seems to be fine. Our pole barn has a metal roof and metal sides. All three of these are different. Does it matter?
Wondering in Weedsport
Pete
Does it matter if 29 ga is used vs 26 ga? Is one used more commonly? Do building codes specify which to use? Is one for walls and one for roofs?
We have four roofs on the house.. one has metal from four years ago, seems to be fine. Our pole barn has a metal roof and metal sides. All three of these are different. Does it matter?
Wondering in Weedsport
Pete
Hillbill_66
New member
Up here on Tug hill a steel roof is preferred because it sheds the snow load. In fact the local joke is that if you drive by a house that doesn't have a steel roof it's not finished being built yet. Years of experience has proved what works, screws in the ribs are the way to go, we only put screws in the flats on the end over the eves. We Pre-drill the whole stack of steel on saw horses on the ground; it saves a lot of trouble when you are up there screwing it down.
Thank you all for the quick reponses : ) There appears to be conflicting opinions, and of course I put up the roof yesterday afternoon before I read these responses : ) but I put in just enough screws to get it on. Now I have to go up and put in the rest of the screws.
TexasJohn: I too thought that keeping the screws out of the valleys would help to keep the water away from the screws, so I went ahead and put them in every 4ft where the two sheets overlap on the ridge and every other ridge along the top and bottom and in the middle 2 rows in the ridges. I have alot more screws to do still : )
Eddie: I have read many of your posts and enjoyed them all! I can't believe you managed to build a lake! Wish I would have read this before I started : ) Too late to change what I have already done but I guess I had better put the rest of the screws in as suggested - two on one purlin, then one on the next on the flats.
I live in the Fraser Valley in British Columbia, Canada on 3 acres. We don't get very much snow out here. My pitch is 4x12 and I have included some images to show the front view and the side view. I know it is not a conventional way to do a pole barn - it started off as one 12x30ft- 3 stalls(10x12) then after I put in all the posts the neighbor came by and said I should make it bigger while I was at it, so I added more posts ending up with what appears to be 2 - 12ft x30ft buildings with a 4 ft space in between for an alley way, facing each other (my wife has named my attempt at a pole barn as "the Son of Frankenstien" - I couldn't stop adding posts : ). See attached pics.
The 2x6's really only span 12ft, cantilivered 2ft roughly in the center. Sitting on 2 - 2x10 girders nailed and bolted to posts with 2 - 1/2inch bolts in each and rafters attached to girders with hurricane ties. I will take some pics of my progress. Any advice is appreciated.
Mitch
TexasJohn: I too thought that keeping the screws out of the valleys would help to keep the water away from the screws, so I went ahead and put them in every 4ft where the two sheets overlap on the ridge and every other ridge along the top and bottom and in the middle 2 rows in the ridges. I have alot more screws to do still : )
Eddie: I have read many of your posts and enjoyed them all! I can't believe you managed to build a lake! Wish I would have read this before I started : ) Too late to change what I have already done but I guess I had better put the rest of the screws in as suggested - two on one purlin, then one on the next on the flats.
I live in the Fraser Valley in British Columbia, Canada on 3 acres. We don't get very much snow out here. My pitch is 4x12 and I have included some images to show the front view and the side view. I know it is not a conventional way to do a pole barn - it started off as one 12x30ft- 3 stalls(10x12) then after I put in all the posts the neighbor came by and said I should make it bigger while I was at it, so I added more posts ending up with what appears to be 2 - 12ft x30ft buildings with a 4 ft space in between for an alley way, facing each other (my wife has named my attempt at a pole barn as "the Son of Frankenstien" - I couldn't stop adding posts : ). See attached pics.
The 2x6's really only span 12ft, cantilivered 2ft roughly in the center. Sitting on 2 - 2x10 girders nailed and bolted to posts with 2 - 1/2inch bolts in each and rafters attached to girders with hurricane ties. I will take some pics of my progress. Any advice is appreciated.
Mitch
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dooleysm
Platinum Member
For what it's worth, we put the roof screws in the ribs here in southern Indiana. We do the first row with a screw in each rib. The next row gets 1 screw at each junction (the first rib from the next sheet lays over top of the last rib on the previous sheet). Then alternate to the end.
For the siding we put screws in the valleys, alternating rows in a similar fashion to the roof.
Eddie's dead on about the pitch too. 4:12 is about it for a metal roof, but for a shingled roof I can walk on 8:12 with similar worries to a 4:12 metal roof.
For the siding we put screws in the valleys, alternating rows in a similar fashion to the roof.
Eddie's dead on about the pitch too. 4:12 is about it for a metal roof, but for a shingled roof I can walk on 8:12 with similar worries to a 4:12 metal roof.
tommu56
Elite Member
meball
I suggest reading the mfg instructions for your panel it might be different.
I use everlast panels, screws in the valley nails in ridge (althogh I dont nail)
Here is the link to the instulation manual from Everlast
http://www.everlastroofing.com/application_LightGuageManual.pdf
tommu56
I suggest reading the mfg instructions for your panel it might be different.
I use everlast panels, screws in the valley nails in ridge (althogh I dont nail)
Here is the link to the instulation manual from Everlast
http://www.everlastroofing.com/application_LightGuageManual.pdf
tommu56
Thanks Tommu56 - lots of additional and helpfull information in that PDF link. Funny... the Big building supply store where I bought the product wasn't very helpful - Before posting this question I did several searches but didn't find what I was looking for. I just did a search at work here to find out who manufactures this product and found a link that shows the installation for a DuraClad roof: Westform Metals - Fasteners - Accessories
Hope I didn't screw up too bad! Thanks for everyones help - I will post some pics of progress soon.
Mitch
Hope I didn't screw up too bad! Thanks for everyones help - I will post some pics of progress soon.
Mitch
tommu56 said:
Of all the advice, this is the best. Those that suggest any method of fastening other than that which the manufacturer reccomends may still have a installation that performs ok, but may void warranty coverage.
texasjohn
Super Member
All I can say is that I gave you my actual experience. The screws (actaully were not self taping... my mistake... , but had pointy ends) were installed on the flats and on the ridges only at edges. They pulled out by the hundreds... but only after 10+ years, beyond warranty range. They did have rubber washers under them but since I didn't do the installation, I can't tell you if they were tightened properly or not. When they do pull out, water rushes in. Anybody who has a permanent solution for my current problem... I'm listening.
I knew there were differing and strong opinions when I first posted.
Yes, Eddie, I seem to recall that the roofs in Latin America were the corrugated type, no flats.
I knew there were differing and strong opinions when I first posted.
Yes, Eddie, I seem to recall that the roofs in Latin America were the corrugated type, no flats.