MF 135 In Frame Rebuild Advice

[Masseywrench]

looks to me like you got wwwwwwwwwwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyy too much oil in it.

I may have to agree with you on this after watching the two videos posted.

I see nothing wrong with the exhaust once it started. Sounded good as well. Probably could use some new injector nozzles to achieve that perfect atomization and it would make for a quicker starting tractor.

I am unsure how much oil your tractor takes on a oil change. I dont have that info handy. I would research that out first. Drain into a clean pan so that you can pour that oil into something later and measure the amount that came out of it.

There are only a few things will make the amount of oil grow/increase in the pan.
1. Mechanical lift pump is bad and puts diesel in the oil. Is that oil super thin and runny?
2. Injector pump seal leaking and putting diesel in the oil. Is that oil super thin and runny?
3. Power steering seal blown and dumps the PS fluid into the crankcase. Do you have a problem having to add fluid to the PS all the time?
These are the main causes.

Oil does not look milky so I dont suspect water/coolant being introduced into the system.
It does look runny to me.

37 degree Cold day and it starts running out of there that fast and flows like that is not all oil.
I think you could have diesel in the oil.

When you change it, and get it full with the correct amount does it still come out of there like that?

You will need to drive it/let it idle for a while and see if the amount of oil grows on the dipstick.

 

[Guoseph]

The Ford diesel drivers speak highly of AR9100.

Taking 10 seconds to start when cold could be due to a worn injector pump, dirty injectors perhaps but I never has a diesel that had an engine issue.

It must have a lot of blow by to get oil out of the dipstick and in fact it looks like the dipstick weld/crimp is broken because oil should not be able to get out there. How many quarts of oil do you put when doing a total change with filter?

Again maybe we have some that have seen this. Some blow by is normal but make sure it has the correct dipstick and see if you can borrow one to check it with. If you try to run it with the oil fill cap off what happens?

The oil dipstick is actually quite snug. I don't think they should be sealed when closed, so the oil is mostly seeping out.

Manual recommends 6.5 quarts with filter change. I put in 6 and it shows right in the middle of MIN and MAX and so I believe the dipstick is the correct one.

 

[Guoseph]

I may have to agree with you on this after watching the two videos posted.

I see nothing wrong with the exhaust once it started. Sounded good as well. Probably could use some new injector nozzles to achieve that perfect atomization and it would make for a quicker starting tractor.

I am unsure how much oil your tractor takes on a oil change. I dont have that info handy. I would research that out first. Drain into a clean pan so that you can pour that oil into something later and measure the amount that came out of it.

There are only a few things will make the amount of oil grow/increase in the pan.
1. Mechanical lift pump is bad and puts diesel in the oil. Is that oil super thin and runny?
2. Injector pump seal leaking and putting diesel in the oil. Is that oil super thin and runny?
3. Power steering seal blown and dumps the PS fluid into the crankcase. Do you have a problem having to add fluid to the PS all the time?
These are the main causes.

Oil does not look milky so I dont suspect water/coolant being introduced into the system.
It does look runny to me.

37 degree Cold day and it starts running out of there that fast and flows like that is not all oil.
I think you could have diesel in the oil.

When you change it, and get it full with the correct amount does it still come out of there like that?

You will need to drive it/let it idle for a while and see if the amount of oil grows on the dipstick.

Thanks for the advice but as I mentioned in the first post the oil volume is not increasing. The second video was taken after running it for an hour. The tractor will continue to push oil out of the dipstick hole until oil level shows below MIN on the dipstick. If I pull out the dipstick or oil filler cap light blue smoke will puff out of either hole.

Also blue smoke out the exhaust becomes less noticeable after start at 1K RPM or below, anything above that or pulling any sort of weight will increase the volume of smoke coming out the back.

 

[murphy1244]

that crankcase is not breathing.

 

[cmore]

My 135 diesel started blowing oil out of the filler tube and it turned out that it was a filter stopped up, I believe on the head. It was a fiber pad and they tore down the engine and put it back together but blow-by was still there. The high oil pressure may be the pressure relief stuck closed.

 

[Guoseph]

Yes, figure it is high pressure. Changed to a new oil filter day before videos. I may have gotten one of the 3 o rings crooked, but seems ok. May switch to a spin on to reduce potentially ham fisted errors on my part. I see smoke and oil coming out the crank case breather tube, I am assuming from that that it isn't clogged? The only thing I don't know how to check is the oil pressure relief valve. My research says it's not something I can get to easily so I'm gonna try Gale's additive suggestion.

 

[JimRB]

If the engine does not have an oil pressure gauge then you get a $30 one to read the oil pressure. If the tractor just has an idiot light by the filter you tap the pressure gauge in there.

 

[Guoseph]

If the engine does not have an oil pressure gauge then you get a $30 one to read the oil pressure. If the tractor just has an idiot light by the filter you tap the pressure gauge in there.

There is an oil pressure gauge and it is pegged on max as soon as I start the tractor and stays there until I turn it off. I've read this could mean broken gauge but seems other symptoms concur with the high pressure. If I get an aftermarket gauge where do I hook it to?

 

[murphy1244]

There is an oil pressure gauge and it is pegged on max as soon as I start the tractor and stays there until I turn it off. I've read this could mean broken gauge but seems other symptoms concur with the high pressure. If I get an aftermarket gauge where do I hook it to?

The same spot your gauge is on now.

 

[Guoseph]

The same spot your gauge is on now.

Thx.

Something like this?

2-1/2" Dry Utility Pressure Gauge - Blk.Steel 1/4" NPT Center Back Mount 300 PSI:Amazon:Automotive

 

[Masseywrench]

On that motor, is there a blow by hose hooked up to the valve cover or is there another set up to vent it.

I went back and watched the first video and I dont see the hard line running down the side of the block pointing toward the ground. Normally they are on the left side of the tractor. Am I missing something on this?

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Hang in there. As others noted your crankcase is not breathing to pressurize like that.

I am interested in the solution since we have that era Perkins.

 

[Guoseph]

On that motor, is there a blow by hose hooked up to the valve cover or is there another set up to vent it.

I went back and watched the first video and I dont see the hard line running down the side of the block pointing toward the ground. Normally they are on the left side of the tractor. Am I missing something on this?

There is a breather tube, it's on the other side of the tractor from the side I took the videos. I've attached the parts book break out. You can see the tube connect at #70, lower left of the diagram. Then it extends down and there are two versions (see breakout just to the right of the two valves). Mine is the version with #72 down tube, with a little kink in it. It's hard to get a picture/video of it because it's tucked real tight to the engine on the timing cover. In fact it sits behind the pullies and belts so it's a bit hairy to try to stick a camera in there while everything is spinning. I also have my oil catch pan right below this tube and didn't want to risk dropping my camera into the oil :laughing:

As I mentioned, there's smoke and oil coming out of this breather tube, but I have not removed it from the valve cover to clean it out.

View attachment AGCO_651199_82_Page.pdf

 

[Masseywrench]

I understand you are getting oil out of the tube since you have a pan under it. I am wondering if you have a partial restriction other than the kink in the pipe such as a dirt dobbers nest or something like that. I would almost unhook it at the valve cover and hook a piece of hose to it to see if that helps. If it makes your problem go away then you can worry about removing the pipe later. It will be a quick test to let you know.

I dont know what else could be causing this issue - Im going to have to study this one some more.

 

[murphy1244]

Thx.

Something like this?

2-1/2" Dry Utility Pressure Gauge - Blk.Steel 1/4" NPT Center Back Mount 300 PSI:Amazon:Automotive

No, you need a oil pressure gauge.

 

[Guoseph]

I understand you are getting oil out of the tube since you have a pan under it. I am wondering if you have a partial restriction other than the kink in the pipe such as a dirt dobbers nest or something like that. I would almost unhook it at the valve cover and hook a piece of hose to it to see if that helps. If it makes your problem go away then you can worry about removing the pipe later. It will be a quick test to let you know.

I dont know what else could be causing this issue - Im going to have to study this one some more.

I did find one picture of the tube. You can see the bottom of the kink behind the belt. The tube ends right behind that bolt, and you can see the oil it sprays down onto the frame and into my catch pan. I will try rerouting it with a fresh tube into catch bottle, as you can see below it makes quite a mess where it sits now.



Here it is in action. This is again low RPM so smoke is not pronounced. I think I didn't do any videos at high RPM cuz I didn't want to stand next to it and inhale the fumes :licking:

 

[Bladehauler]

just my .02 cents , but I would pull the valve cover and clean the crankcase breather . they get gunked up and wont the the gasses flow out and when they do get restricted they will carry alot of oil out because the pathway has been reduced . shouldn't cost any more the a valve cover gasket and a breather element

 

[Masseywrench]

well there is definitely no restriction in that pipe.

Im going back to my original diagnosis. You have some of the compression rings seized or worn out cylinders.

But I would like to see another oil gauge hooked up and recheck that pressure. I am wondering if something in the oil pump could be causing this issue as well.

I have seen a 393 before with this same style of problem (blowing it out the dipstick and blow by tube worse than yours) and I ended up re-ringing it and doing a hone job and now its like a new motor.
The 393 motor had water in it. Like drove it off in a pond kinda of water. The thing that bothers me about your tractor is that the exhaust pipe is down low and pointing out the back. There is no chance for rain water to get into the head like that unless there is a way it went down the intake some how. Without an avenue for water to be introduced into the motor, it leads me to think its wear. You need to find someone to do a compression test next.

 

[murphy1244]

just my .02 cents , but I would pull the valve cover and clean the crankcase breather . they get gunked up and wont the the gasses flow out and when they do get restricted they will carry alot of oil out because the pathway has been reduced . shouldn't cost any more the a valve cover gasket and a breather element

agree with this. A must do...

 

[Masseywrench]

guys what part are you talking about cleaning under the valve cover. The last video he put up showed plenty of air rolling out of that tube which led me to believe it open.

I looked at the parts book and there is a check valve in the oil pump but I have never had to mess with one of them. Not sure if this could be causing it or not.