MF-135 oil pressure fluctuations

[Farmwithjunk]

I just got home and looked in my Perkins tech service manual. It says the AD3-152 oil pressure relief valve adjustment, an integral part of the oil pump itself, is accessable only by removal of the oil pan. It is pre-set at the factory and is NOT recommended to be re-set. If relief fails, as is same with the pump itself, it is suggested that the entire pump be replaced. That said, Perkins and Massey Ferguson list a part# for relief valve "kit" and pump rebuild "kit".

Sorta like OJ Simpson..... I didn't do it, but if I did, here's how I would have done it.

 

[Soundguy]

As FWJ mentioned.. check the oil pickup tube.. on fords, the tube was silver soldered in tot he pump base, and they -COULD- crack and cause loss of prime and pressure.. though as FWJ stated.... it was usually an all or nothing setup.. not a fluctuation issue.

soundguy

 

[flusher]

I just got home and looked in my Perkins tech service manual. It says the AD3-152 oil pressure relief valve adjustment, an integral part of the oil pump itself, is accessable only by removal of the oil pan. It is pre-set at the factory and is NOT recommended to be re-set. If relief fails, as is same with the pump itself, it is suggested that the entire pump be replaced. That said, Perkins and Massey Ferguson list a part# for relief valve "kit" and pump rebuild "kit".

Sorta like OJ Simpson..... I didn't do it, but if I did, here's how I would have done it.

I sorta figured that valve would be hard to get to and probably cannot be serviced.

Looking at the oil pan on that Perkins deisel, I discovered that it's part of the tractor support structure. Don't know if all tractors are like that.

Evidently you have to wedge cribbing under the clutch housing to support the middle of the tractor before you try to remove the oil pan. And, even worse, you have to pull the entire front axle/wheels/frame/radiator off the tractor just to get that darn oil pan removed. The Brits couldn't have made that job harder if they tried.

I plan to check the oil pressure gauge and, if that's not the problem, then I'll flush the heck out of that engine. Disassembling that tractor is my last resort.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I sorta figured that valve would be hard to get to and probably cannot be serviced.

Looking at the oil pan on that Perkins deisel, I discovered that it's part of the tractor support structure. Don't know if all tractors are like that.

Evidently you have to wedge cribbing under the clutch housing to support the middle of the tractor before you try to remove the oil pan. And, even worse, you have to pull the entire front axle/wheels/frame/radiator off the tractor just to get that darn oil pan removed. The Brits couldn't have made that job harder if they tried.

I plan to check the oil pressure gauge and, if that's not the problem, then I'll flush the heck out of that engine. Disassembling that tractor is my last resort.

I've pulled several oil pans on 135's and 150's to replace oil pan gaskets. I did my own 150, 2 summers past. (Those pesky old "rope" pan gaskets) It's not as complicated as it looks.

Un-bolt (screws) the hood assembly from the dash on 150's. Drive wooden wedges between front axle and axle bolster to eliminate front axle pivot. Put a jack under the bellhousing to support the weight of the tractor ever-so-slightly lift the front end so weight is taken off the front wheels. Unbolt the oil pan from front axle bolster, from the bellhousing, then from the engine block. Drop pan. Reverse proceedure to re-install.

 

[diyDave]

One thing that I didn't see mentioned here, is that something could be being sucked against the oil screen, causing the fluctuation, as the pump cavitates(starves for oil). I had an old A-C C that had the suction tube rattle loose, and also was nearly driven insane by a bumble bee that somehow managed meet its demise in the gas tank of a D-14, every time gas got to a quarter of a tank or less, the floating corpse would get sucked down into the sediment bowl inlet, when the tractor stalled, and no gas was flowing, he'd float back up and out of sight! Something of a similar sort could be happening here.

 

[flusher]

I've pulled several oil pans on 135's and 150's to replace oil pan gaskets. I did my own 150, 2 summers past. (Those pesky old "rope" pan gaskets) It's not as complicated as it looks.

Un-bolt (screws) the hood assembly from the dash on 150's. Drive wooden wedges between front axle and axle bolster to eliminate front axle pivot. Put a jack under the bellhousing to support the weight of the tractor ever-so-slightly lift the front end so weight is taken off the front wheels. Unbolt the oil pan from front axle bolster, from the bellhousing, then from the engine block. Drop pan. Reverse proceedure to re-install.

FWJ: Thanks for the info.

I was just going by what's in the IT shop manual for the MF-135, 150, 165. The procedure given there is more complex:

Drain the cooling system and the oil pan
Remove hood and side panels
On the 135 disconnect the drag links and radius rods.
Unbolt power steering pump
Support tractor under the transmission housing
Disconnect the radiator hoses
Disconnect air cleaner hose
Unbolt front support from oil pan
Roll front support, front axle and radiator as an assembly away from the tractor
Place a rolling floor jack under the oil pan
Remove cap screws and lower oil pan away from tractor

Don't know why the power steering pump and air cleaner hose have to be disconnected.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

FWJ: Thanks for the info.

I was just going by what's in the IT shop manual for the MF-135, 150, 165. The procedure given there is more complex:

Drain the cooling system and the oil pan
Remove hood and side panels
On the 135 disconnect the drag links and radius rods.
Unbolt power steering pump
Support tractor under the transmission housing
Disconnect the radiator hoses
Disconnect air cleaner hose
Unbolt front support from oil pan
Roll front support, front axle and radiator as an assembly away from the tractor
Place a rolling floor jack under the oil pan
Remove cap screws and lower oil pan away from tractor

Don't know why the power steering pump and air cleaner hose have to be disconnected.

I've done maybe a dozen 135/150 oil pan gasket sets so far. I've never drained cooling system, never completely removed hood/side panels, never removed drag links or radius rods, Never removed power steering pump, neverdisconnected radiator hoses, never disconnected air cleaner hose, and never rolled front axle/front support away from tractor. I could see where all that would make for a LOT of room when dealing with the oil pan. Long story short, that extra room isn't a factor.

On my 150 as an example, from the start, I had the pan off in about an hour. Less than 3 hours total time start to finish.

 

[Soundguy]

Flusher.. the same procedure FWJ mentiond works nearly identically with the ford N series which use a cast oil pan, and also have 2 front bolts that are nearly warded by the front axle and related parts.

soundguy

FWJ: Thanks for the info.

I was just going by what's in the IT shop manual for the MF-135, 150, 165. The procedure given there is more complex:

Drain the cooling system and the oil pan
Remove hood and side panels
On the 135 disconnect the drag links and radius rods.
Unbolt power steering pump
Support tractor under the transmission housing
Disconnect the radiator hoses
Disconnect air cleaner hose
Unbolt front support from oil pan
Roll front support, front axle and radiator as an assembly away from the tractor
Place a rolling floor jack under the oil pan
Remove cap screws and lower oil pan away from tractor

Don't know why the power steering pump and air cleaner hose have to be disconnected.

 

[flusher]

I've done maybe a dozen 135/150 oil pan gasket sets so far. I've never drained cooling system, never completely removed hood/side panels, never removed drag links or radius rods, Never removed power steering pump, neverdisconnected radiator hoses, never disconnected air cleaner hose, and never rolled front axle/front support away from tractor. I could see where all that would make for a LOT of room when dealing with the oil pan. Long story short, that extra room isn't a factor.

On my 150 as an example, from the start, I had the pan off in about an hour. Less than 3 hours total time start to finish.

I thought there was something goofy about that IT procedure. Don't know where IT gets the stuff it prints. I wonder if IT just cuts and pastes stuff out of service manuals without considering if it's the most logical/economical procedure.

I guess the moral here is go with the experienced voice and don't believe everything you read. Your method is far simpler and gives me confidence that I can giterdone. Thanks again.

 

[flusher]

Flusher.. the same procedure FWJ mentiond works nearly identically with the ford N series which use a cast oil pan, and also have 2 front bolts that are nearly warded by the front axle and related parts.

soundguy

Thanks SG. Do you mean that the two front bolts are on the oil pan and are hard to get to because of the front axle and related parts?