MF-135 oil pressure fluctuations

[flusher]

Flusher.. the same procedure FWJ mentiond works nearly identically with the ford N series which use a cast oil pan, and also have 2 front bolts that are nearly warded by the front axle and related parts.

soundguy

Interesting that the Ford N oil pans are similar to the 135's;

Any tricks of the trade that the Ners use to drop the oil pan on their Fords and then get it reinstalled without a major hassle?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Yep, the gaskets are a concern.

I need to locate that recent TBN thread in which you recommended using the modern oil pan gaskets on the 135 in place of the older style.

Yours is old enough it'll use what Perkins/MF called a "rope seal". Mine had a fiber seal. I know for sure that the part # on the later seal was superceded by a new # for a rubber seal. Not sure about the rope seal.

 

[Soundguy]

Interesting that the Ford N oil pans are similar to the 135's;

Any tricks of the trade that the Ners use to drop the oil pan on their Fords and then get it reinstalled without a major hassle?

Floor jack with a 2x6 laying on it.. or a tranny jack.. etc..

soundguy

 

[flusher]

Floor jack with a 2x6 laying on it.. or a tranny jack.. etc..

soundguy

I'm thinking tranny jack.

 

[flusher]

Yours is old enough it'll use what Perkins/MF called a "rope seal". Mine had a fiber seal. I know for sure that the part # on the later seal was superceded by a new # for a rubber seal. Not sure about the rope seal.

How did you handle the timing cover seal? Did you have to replace it when you reinstalled the oil pan?

The upper part of that seal mates with the engine block and the lower part mates with the oil pan. Apparently this is a one-piece seal.

I have Big Dean's CD. Here's his method:

"The low portion of the timing cover either has to be unbolted from the pan
or
the two bolts that hold it to the top portion of the timing cover have to be removed and the timing cover gasket has to be cut at the point where the top portion joins the bottom portion to remove the oil pan".

 

[Farmwithjunk]

How did you handle the timing cover seal? Did you have to replace it when you reinstalled the oil pan?

The upper part of that seal mates with the engine block and the lower part mates with the oil pan. Apparently this is a one-piece seal.

I have Big Dean's CD. Here's his method:

"The low portion of the timing cover either has to be unbolted from the pan
or
the two bolts that hold it to the top portion of the timing cover have to be removed and the timing cover gasket has to be cut at the point where the top portion joins the bottom portion to remove the oil pan".

I'm gonna have to study on that one a bit. Apparently I've always unbolted the "low portion of the timing cover" because I've never done the "or" part. I've never needed to remove the timing cover on any of the Perkins engines I've changed pan gaskets on.

 

[flusher]

I'm gonna have to study on that one a bit. Apparently I've always unbolted the "low portion of the timing cover" because I've never done the "or" part. I've never needed to remove the timing cover on any of the Perkins engines I've changed pan gaskets on.

FWJ:

Here's Big Dean's page. Hope it helps.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Just unbolt the lower portion of the timing cover from the oil pan. Seeing a picture jolted my memory.

On older AD3-152's that "square seal that leaks into the bellhousing" is a piece that looks like a short length of rope. Newer models used a fiber seal. Retrofit gasket set has a seal made from some sort of rubber. You'll need "early" gasket set. It goes by a serial # break. If I recall you don't have a serial #, right? The break point was in late 1968.

 

[flusher]

Just unbolt the lower portion of the timing cover from the oil pan. Seeing a picture jolted my memory.

On older AD3-152's that "square seal that leaks into the bellhousing" is a piece that looks like a short length of rope. Newer models used a fiber seal. Retrofit gasket set has a seal made from some sort of rubber. You'll need "early" gasket set. It goes by a serial # break. If I recall you don't have a serial #, right? The break point was in late 1968.

I found the serial # for my 135. It's SDW 64-1002515, which makes in 1964.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I found the serial # for my 135. It's SDW 64-1002515, which makes in 1964.

Good deal! When you order the gasket set, they'll have a "before/after" number where the change-over in gasket types was at. You'll definately be a "before".