MF 65 with g176 gas engine with cessna power steering pump what are the fittings?

[mllud]

yes have pas power assist steering! but only 8 speed with hi low. Has a nice fel mf 200. I bought it couple three yrs ago. Just changed the oil yesterday.

fatb
I'm just guessing but if you are getting ready to replace steering lines I'm just finishing mine.
I bought short sections on brake line and brazed a j.i.c male #4 on one end. That allows me to buy a standard Hyd. hose with female J.I.C. swivel on both ends




Then I bent and spliced onto the lines with brake line tubing coming off of the steering column valve body and brazed j.i.c. male fittings on the ends.
Now with male jic fittings on both ends I just bought standard length hoses to connect the two ends. Note the lines to the pump. I already have 2' lines to connect the steering cylinders. Still reworking front axle.


I also used wire heat shrink to cover the hard lines. Abrasion protection.
Fittings and hoses are cheap on the[ Surplus Center ]website. For around 100 bucks I reworked the steering lines. They were original and worn out.



You need to be able to braze.

 

[rScotty]

I'm always curious about what folks use for brazing. Were the fittings pure steel like the tubing? Or were they plated?

And for the brazing, did you use standard LFB (low fuming brass/bronze) as the brazing rod? Anything special with the rod & flux?

I do a lot of brazing, but when I have something like your project I often use a rod with some silver in it that flows a little better than brazing rod.
For work that has to be really strong I like a rod with very little silver and more nickle.....but then it doesn't flow as well as silver.

The same basic brazing flux and oxy/acetylene torch and tip with a small flame seems to work for me with all of these. On a real tricky job I will often smash the granular flux so that it becomes real fine. Or even mix the powder in water and paint it on.
rScotty

 

[mllud]

RScotty
I just buy flux coated bronze from tractor supply. You are a lot more educated on what to use in different applications.
Yes the tubing and fittings were coated. I wear a respirator but probably the wrong one. The coating is gone within a few seconds. I braze cast iron mostly. Brass and cast iron repairs seldom brake if done right.
On this tubing which is brake line and the fittings are/were anodized. I used a small flame keeping the heat on the fitting bringing it to a dull red then bring the rod to the edge shielding the tubing with the rod somewhat . When the rod starts melting I follow the rim and fill. The hot fitting draws in the bronze filling the connection. I don't have any problem with strength or failing joints. My skid steer rubbed through and I grabbed the first black iron fitting that slipped over and brazed.
You have to push the heat while brazing. Sometimes to near melting. Then back off a little. Heating those fittings to a dull orange glow gets the tubing hot enough to sweat the fitting.
I have talked to guys that say brazing is weak. They glob it on and don't break the surface tension between the metal. I call it sweating.

My reason for making my own hyd. lines was cost and availability for a 1962 M.F. 203. My tractor won't suit the all original guys. Its my mix of imy ideas as I go.
Scotty :I think ill have a new subject to do some reading about different brazing rod and flux.

I silver solder some.

 

[mllud]

Some of those fittings look like they have coating. That's paint from before I changed my mind.
In the previous I called the rod bronze. I edited it to brass. It is an alloy. Brass or bronze?
I didn't go to a tech school. 45 years of on job training because I had to keep machines running. Old school

 

[fatb]

Here's a pic its old but does what i need it too

 

[mllud]

Here's a pic its old but does what i need it tooView attachment 658408

That's a good workhorse. Some of these old tractors like yours can be going for another 50 years. They are built to be durable and basic machines that are user friendly to work on. Sometimes troubleshooting the hydraulics can be a pain but once you have been through the mill with that section its pretty easy to understand. Keep her running.

My friend up the road has a new Kobota that's cool as ****. Forget the model but its 38 hp. Strong and functional. I would love to have one of those and my 203.
I would trade the new one when it is about 2 years out of warranty because ill admit its more complicated for me to deal with. I've been twisting bolts for 45 years and have fair el4ctrical experience but wouldn't want to get to deep into a new one.

I'm building my 203 to keep until I expire. Its 59 years old and I'm 64. Its a lot more durable than I am. I rolled a toy 203 around in the dirt pile when I was about 6. It says a lot that these machines are still working. Heavy cast iron is my drug.

 

[fatb]

here's my problem

 

[mllud]

here's my problem

Your hose looks like its a n.t.p female end. The brass fitting going into the stainless fitting is n.t.p. male going into n.t.p female stainless fitting.
So it looks like you could replace all that copper and brass with All N.T.P..

Is the stainless fitting going into the cylinder brazed in and not leaking? If it is leave it alone.
Does your hose have any slack? If not a short nipple going to the hose and a street L 90 degree going into the stainless fitting should be all you need.

Two pieces. A street L 90 degree fitting and a 3 or 4 inch nipple. I would get stainless fittings.
Any other members please verify my assessment.

 

[mllud]

Getting the hose closer to the elbow would be better. I now see that's not the cylinder, its better that its not.
You may have clearance issues with screwing in an elbow
You will also need a bushing in the hose to reduce to match the smaller elbow

 

[fatb]

Here's the other end in the cylinder I believe its the low pressure hose on the power steering I was thinking of just getting couple of adapters straight threads to male jics and a 48 inch hose with females jics