mf135engine overhaul

[namyessam]

I have done the 1400km return trip to try fix my tractor. Unfortunately it took longer than expected and so I have to go back again. I absolutely battled to get the head off. I had to use a crowbar and chisels and screwdrivers . It took me about 4 hours. Why dont they just make the clearance holes bigger. Anyway the gasket blew between one and two. However cylinder sleeve three seems to be cracked. I have brought the engine home with me so I can fix it at my leisure.
I am worried about two of the studs. There seem to be hairline cracks in the block . One of them seem to run into the cylinder sleeve.I am hoping that if I put in a semi finished liner it will not matter.
What have you guys who have rebuilt your engines do to make working on your engines easier. I am referring to an engine stand of sorts. I am wondering how to handle this motor safely when it comes to turning it around to do the crank shaft bearings. Can a waterpump be rebuilt. My cam is badly damaged where the fuel pump runs. Can this be built up with weld and machined?
Does anyone know of a write up of a diesel 135 I am hoping not to have to surf the net if someone knows of a good writeup. What should I be replacing in a rebuild ?If my head and crank and valves are okay would it be foolish to not do the waterpump and oil pump. I really dont want to throw money away but at the same time I dont want to do something foolish. My flywheel has cracks in it but I suppose this isnt a car .Can injectors be re serviced by a diy or is this highly specialized
Is there a solvent that gets rid of coke build up for the pistons and valves etc.
thanks eugene

I remember a thread you started some time ago and mentioned trying to find a service manual. If you don't have one, get one. you'll need it! I have been reading my manual on rebuilding this engine and WOW, there is alot of things that have a very specific way to be assembled and if done wrong will mean disaster. You mentioned about doing something foolish and not to insult you but not having a service manual would be a big one.

The injectors need to be service by a professional and could injure you if you inject diesel fluid in to your skin. The injector pump develops enough pressure to pierce the skin.

The water pump does appear to be rebuildable but a aftermarket rebuilt may be eaiser, cheaper and more reliable. I would make sure the oil pump is in perfect working order before reinstalling it since it is in the crankcase. It would be a major project to repair if you found it was not pumping the required pressure after the total rebuild. I would be more concerned about it than the waterpump unless it shows signs of leakage. Its on the outside of the engine and can be replaced easier than the oil pump. I believe DaButcher used fully finished cylinder liners that are dry sleeves. His thread has the instructions from "Hutch" how to remove them. I would have the valve seats checked by a good automotive machine shop before you reassemble it. It would be money well spent. Thats all for now

 

[plunger]

I thank you for your useful replies. Living in s africa poses a few problems.We cannot log onto the agco site and dont have e bay. I went out of my way on the 1400km trip top buy a service manual in a foreign town from a dealer called agriline. Only to find out that he operates from home. It was dark, I was frustrated and lost as i still had 60km to get to the farm. The manual was in cd form only to find out later that it was a manual only of the tractor and not the engine. He had a bad copy on the cd of a freely available perkins download that I have been using(poor quality)I can order a book online but they say it will yake 2 weeks and I am reluctant to get taken twice.I managed to get the marks aligned.I soppose because its not belt or chain driven it will rely on the no of teeth.The pump and cam are 50 tooth so will land up exactly the same relative to each other.I am trying to figure out if the sump has to come off in order to remove the timing back plate. I also opened up the injector pump to see an E but after reading the perkins manual it said the injector flange is stamped and I couldnt see this so i hope I will be able to work it out.
At this point I am also battling to know exactly what engine I got.
In a strip down like this is it better to replace the crankshaft bolts? Are these stretch bolts . What would you guys look at replacing.I know I am in for new liners but havnt got the pistons out just yet.Can rings be put into unidentified pistons if the pistons look okay.
Thanks Eugene

 

[plunger]

I thank you for your useful replies. Living in s africa poses a few problems.We cannot log onto the agco site and dont have e bay. I went out of my way on the 1400km trip top buy a service manual in a foreign town from a dealer called agriline. Only to find out that he operates from home. It was dark, I was frustrated and lost as i still had 60km to get to the farm. The manual was in cd form only to find out later that it was a manual only of the tractor and not the engine. He had a bad copy on the cd of a freely available perkins download that I have been using(poor quality)I can order a book online but they say it will yake 2 weeks and I am reluctant to get taken twice.I managed to get the marks aligned.I soppose because its not belt or chain driven it will rely on the no of teeth.The pump and cam are 50 tooth so will land up exactly the same relative to each other.I am trying to figure out if the sump has to come off in order to remove the timing back plate. I also opened up the injector pump to see an E but after reading the perkins manual it said the injector flange is stamped and I couldnt see this so i hope I will be able to work it out.
At this point I am also battling to know exactly what engine I got.
In a strip down like this is it better to replace the crankshaft bolts? Are these stretch bolts . What would you guys look at replacing.I know I am in for new liners but havnt got the pistons out just yet.Can rings be put into unidentified pistons if the pistons look okay.
Thanks Eugene

 

[DaButcher]

There is a way for you to log on to AGCO site. I don't know exactly how, but there should be someone on this site that can help you. Really need to identify the engine before getting parts. I know when looking at AGCO parts online for my 165 there was a choice for South African model, so some of your parts will be different from other parts of the world.

I have never replaced crank bolts.

 

[plunger]

Sorry I meant conrod bolts. I took the engine to the engineers today. I just hope they do a good job.They will be skimming the head and block and re assembling the head and pushing in semi finished liners.What holds the camshaft in?When I look at the prices of spares I am pleasantly suprized.Total to machine is $260.00 Parts including gasket sets and new bearings and new liners and pistons excluding oil pump $215.00

 

[murphy1244]

There is a way for you to log on to AGCO site. I don't know exactly how, but there should be someone on this site that can help you. Really need to identify the engine before getting parts. I know when looking at AGCO parts online for my 165 there was a choice for South African model, so some of your parts will be different from other parts of the world.

I have never replaced crank bolts.

Log on as Guest

 

[namyessam]

Sorry I meant conrod bolts. I took the engine to the engineers today. I just hope they do a good job.They will be skimming the head and block and re assembling the head and pushing in semi finished liners.What holds the camshaft in?When I look at the prices of spares I am pleasantly suprized.Total to machine is $260.00 Parts including gasket sets and new bearings and new liners and pistons excluding oil pump $215.00

The I&T service manual says that camshaft end float is dampend by the leaf type thrust spring rivited to the rear face of the timing gear cover. the use of spur gears creates very little end thrust. I'm not sure what semi-finished liners are. Do they just require honing or do they have to be finished bored? I would think you would want to use new pistons, rings, main, rod and wrist pin bearings. You will need to accurately measure the piston for roundness and taper to confirm. Usually the liners, pistons, and rings come in a set. Thats what I have experienced and read on this forum. Price of parts if I am understanding correctly seems cheap.

namyessam

 

[DaButcher]

It's not that simple. In some countries "guest" does not show up. There is a work around to get in but, I don't know how it's done. The work around has been discussed here before without detail

Log on as Guest

 

[The kid]

What he needs to do is goto a site like this one.


http://www.onlineipchanger.com/

It simply changes your IP so you may access a US site that blocks certain countries. I don't think it's illegal. Then he should be ale to use AGCO's site without restraints.

 

[plunger]

So far I have bought new semi finished liners, oil pump top and bottom gasket sets, rope seal and all new mains and big ends and thrust bearings as well as pistons and rings.MY end play is 0.4 mm on the crank and the spec is maximum 0.38. Can I fix this with oversize thrust bearings? tHE BOOK SAYS THEY ARE SOLD IN SETS OF 010,020,AND 030. I dont get this . How thick is 010? If I was aiming for 0.2 what size would I use and is there a specific way a thrust washer goes ( like forward for example Also I took the rope seal bearing holder out but dont know which half is on top or bottom. If you look at the halves one has a half moon scroll.Does the half with the half moon scroll go up or down?