Mid mount mowers

[mykleh]

PhysAssist had asked back on page 2 for pictures of how I plagiarized from a user here a quicker FEL connection as I had mentioned I take the bucket off but leave the FEL frame on when I use the MMM and thought of it while in the shed this weekend..

 

[PhysAssist]

PhysAssist had asked back on page 2 for pictures of how I plagiarized from a user here a quicker FEL connection as I had mentioned I take the bucket off but leave the FEL frame on when I use the MMM and thought of it while in the shed this weekend..

...and I thank you heartily for the momentary "thread-jack"!

Pictures saved to the round-tuit file!

:thumbsup:

 

[Texasmark]

I thought long and hard about a mmm for my 2400. Decided against it and went the separate, stand alone mower for that. The more you think about keeping the functions separate, the more you will agree.

A mmm for the 2400 sells for $2500. You can get a 46 Husqvarna conventional at a big box store for $2k with a 22 hp V twin Briggs. Not a ZT but a super mower with tight steering and great cutting abilities and does a super job of keeping a clean deck in the spring when the grass is wet. ZTs are now priced down in that area for starter units.

I have several reasons for not buying the mmm: Almost impossible to clean or sharpen blades if you don't have a "drive over" that you uncouple (how much trouble is that). It's heavy and in your way all the time. It's not a ZT and no match for the cutting ability of the Husq 46. That's enough reasons for me....probably more.

 

[PhysAssist]

I thought long and hard about a mmm for my 2400. Decided against it and went the separate, stand alone mower for that. The more you think about keeping the functions separate, the more you will agree.

A mmm for the 2400 sells for $2500. You can get a 46 Husqvarna conventional at a big box store for $2k with a 22 hp V twin Briggs. Not a ZT but a super mower with tight steering and great cutting abilities and does a super job of keeping a clean deck in the spring when the grass is wet. ZTs are now priced down in that area for starter units.

I have several reasons for not buying the mmm: Almost impossible to clean or sharpen blades if you don't have a "drive over" that you uncouple (how much trouble is that). It's heavy and in your way all the time. It's not a ZT and no match for the cutting ability of the Husq 46. That's enough reasons for me....probably more.

For me, the MM-mower was my rationale to get my SWMBO to buy into the whole tractor concept.

I would've preferred a bush-hog on the 3-pt, but there was no selling that- and as a result, we've really beat up our MMM mowing our rocky uneven brushy "lawn", but so far it's holding up well- I just have to sharpen [read: grind out dings] more often.

But- last year we didn't even put it on, and I almost have her convinced to get a bush-hog w/ stump jumper for our rougher areas.

We mow pretty well with ours in the "lawnier" areas, because the tree [and boulder] spacing is pretty generous- but we KILLED a lawn tractor MMM [Kenmore, IIRC] and several walk-behind rotary mower because of crank shaft damage from hitting rocks or stumps.

We have no problem putting on or taking off our MMM, and even though it's a "drive-over", we have NEVER done that, because I have read too many report of cracked decks from doing it on uneven ground [and until 2013 or late 2014, we didn't have a flat paved place to do it [except out in the road in front of our place- which even though it's a rural town 2-lane, is too busy in summer for that].

But it's also easier to just turn the anti-scalps sideways and roll it under anyway- especially if I buck it up with the loader first; it's never really in the way- I just take it off and stand it up on end out of the way whenever I want to move dirt or whatever.

...and we don't need the pretty cut of a ZT or Husq- it's just a yard, not a putting green, where we have almost as much wild violets, vinca, clover, and other assorted "weeds" growing as there is as grass growing anyway.

That said, I still want that rear mount Bush hog...

YMMV

 

[dieselscout80]

Dieselscout80,
No build thread yet cause it is being done for me in a shop too far away to take progress photos. The shop doesn't take photos. The project will be done on the 13 th and I will pick it up the next day. That is the plan, they don't usually work on hobby projects. I will send you a PM with some photos so ck your in box after that date. The work will only take about 8 hours if that, but the shop works on it in between large projects so it is a piecemeal schedule,

Majorwager, did the shop ever get done with your mower?

I'd love to see pictures of it.

 

[majorwager]

Diesel,

Sorry, forgot about sending the photos. Will post them here NOW by edit, do NOT have hoses connected and just received the pump yeaterday. Mower is mounted on FEL but mods to caster wheels must be made before it is ready to mow There is an additional post, more photos because of the limit per post,scroll down.
Note: pump is sitting atop resevoir, it mounts piggyback to bottom mounted speed increaser. Pressure regulator mounted on hitch. Top has a filtered return, 4 inch inspection port, fill/breather combo, spare 1 " port for future temp gauge. There are duplicate filters. 12V cooler on rear. Shelves for small honda 2KW genset to power cab elec A/C unit. And 12V batt for cooler fan . Genset has 12V plug, it will charge cooler fan battery. Any queastions, just ask, not sure yet on paint, possibly reflective silver. Mower is needing a bath, been sitting in barn since late 90's. Has 6 inches off oscillation, Casters/wheels being replaced. Not sure on paint color? Hyd motor is mounted to existing 2000 rpm gearbox. No hose connections YET. System capable of 33 gpm @ 2500 psi. Mower motor only requires 26 gpm, slower engine speed, better fuel economy. Better torque range. Reservoir is custom 52 gallon capacity.Temporarily unit will share driveshaft w/ the tiller. More photos posted separate later post.

 

[ThirdMan]

My dealer also recommended a separate mowing machine vs the MMM. I would probably do the same for most people. A lower weight ZT that is faster and turns better seems to be the correct machine to mow most lawns. The problem for me was that a low end ZT would cost the same as the MMM I bought, but that would not be able to mow the 25+ degree slope we have by the road. My wife mows it up and down in 4x4. A SCUT has less ground clearance than a CUT, but that also means it has a lower center of gravity. From what I have read here on TBN I would be buying a $6,000 plus ZT to handle that (maybe that information is incorrect). I currently don't have extra garage space for a ZT and don't want to maintain another engine. A SCUT with a MMM works well for us and we have gotten pretty fast at taking it on and off.

 

[majorwager]

Diesel,
Balance of photos as promised. Reservoir was not finished untill a week later than we discussed, then the mower was dropped off at shop for modification. Mower wheels require modification. Will fabricate conventional yoke style for rear, duels each side. Front yokes scheduled for reuse if possible, just install new caster wheels. Trial and try again. Mentioned mower needs bath, 20 years in storage!!

 

[dieselscout80]

Majorwager,

Thanks for the pictures!!

The 6” inches of oscillation is that side to side?

Is there front of back oscillation?

What tractor are you going to run it on?

 

[majorwager]

Diesel,

Side lateral movement is 6 inches, front lift dimention would be almost completely vertical. I can control front drop with the FEL. That would be 45 degrees downward easily. The mower will operate om my MX, which is where it is currently mounted.

 

[dieselscout80]

Do you think you could run it with your Ford 1620?

 

[majorwager]

Diesel
Ford FEL would support the mower, but NOT enough hp to drive the power unit.

 

[dieselscout80]

Can you post part numbers and manufactures of the pump, hydraulic motor and speed increaser?

When you get it running I’d love to see a video of it’s movements and operating.

 

[majorwager]

Diesel,
I can post this info, are your really serious to duplicate unit ? Do you have a mower w/ 2000 RPM gearbox? what is it that you would like to accomplish?

 

[dieselscout80]

I’m thinking of using a rear discharge finish mower and likely it would be only 60” wide. I have to procure a mower.

I have to make a change in our mowing system as our son is going to be leaving home after this mowing.season

 

[majorwager]

Diesel,
To drive most any front FEL implement with hydraulic power, you will need a tractor with not less than 40 hp @ the PTO. What tractor will you be using?


Edit: if the mower has 540 rpm gearbox, you may be able to use as little as 30 pto shaft power. You would be limited to a finish mower in grass. A tiller or rotary mower would likely require more flow, gpm and back to 40 hp pto, min.

 

[Coolerman]

I have 2.1 AC to mow and have a BX2230 with 60" mower deck (actually own TWO of these decks! The tractor came with both)
I don't know who said that MMM's are not maneuverable, and can't trim close to stuff, but I have no issues doing either. I easily trim around the fence line and the many tress in the yard.
I keep the blades sharp and the cut is as good as any ZT I have ever seen.
My "lawn" used to be open field so it's bumpy to say the least. A ZT would never do 9 mph in my yard! (MAYBE right around the house where it's smoother)
When I had the accident with my BX (forgot to take MMM stub shaft off and accidently engaged the MMM resulting in the oil filter being sheared off) I hired my wifes cousin to mow for a couple of weeks.
He has a Lexmark ZT. He TRIED going fast but it was beating him and the mower to death. He did manage to mow my yard faster than I could with the MMM but it did not look any better.

I think each person has a unique situation and the accepted "BEST" solution is not always the "right" solution. If my yard were smooth I would buy a ZT.

Oh also the wifes cousin did not even attempt to mow the road banks that run in front of the house. I have to use 4WD for that even when it's dry...

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Don't know why anyone is mowing 5 AC. Mow a 1/2 acre with a walkbehind mower. Hire a bush hogger to do the other 4 1/2 about once every 2 years to take down the crap. Just mow some trails with the walkbehind through the 4 1/2 to enjoy it the way it wants to grow naturally. Avoid the bush hogging by stepping into the tall stuff with your pruners and brush with glyphosate on it to cut and paint saplings and briers.

Think most people buy mowers and mow big acreage because they just like to sit and mow.

Ralph

Amen to that!

 

[PhysAssist]

Quote Originally Posted by RalphVa View Post
Don't know why anyone is mowing 5 AC. Mow a 1/2 acre with a walkbehind mower. Hire a bush hogger to do the other 4 1/2 about once every 2 years to take down the crap. Just mow some trails with the walkbehind through the 4 1/2 to enjoy it the way it wants to grow naturally. Avoid the bush hogging by stepping into the tall stuff with your pruners and brush with glyphosate on it to cut and paint saplings and briers.

Think most people buy mowers and mow big acreage because they just like to sit and mow.

Ralph

Amen to that!

Amen to both of you-

All around us, people are moving out from the city or suburbs, and then clearing/mowing huge swaths of land to get wide open areas of grass- for what?

Not for any practical purpose, that's for sure- I almost never see the acreage they mow being used in any manner- much less one that requires clear-cutting and manicured grass... [like soccer fields, etc...]

We have a total of 8.1 acres, most of which is left wild- that's why WE moved here- to be in the woods, surrounded by deer, etc...

From the road, all you can see of our yard is the small mowed areas [only 1 or 2-times/season] running along our winding gravel driveway, our roadside mailbox, and the mandatory sign with our street number on it.

While I know that everyone has the right to do what they want with their land, I can't imagine why you'd WANT to have everything cut down flat and open from the back of your property to the road- maybe in colonial times when you needed clear fields of fire, but why now?

Go figure?


PS: Just like Ralph suggested, we mow paths, etc periodically with a DR Brush Mower, so we can walk through with less risk of pain [or poison ivy]...

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Yep, I mow right around the house, then mow curved walking paths through my tall grass fields, which are full of wildflowers, native grasses, butterflies, birds, and bunnies. The deer like to bed down in it too. Looks pretty too. Win-win-win