mid winter checking in

[Alan7s]

Just stopped by to say hello to all now that winter has done its thing. Hope all are keeping well and getting those winter
repairs done - that is, except the guys who live where you can dig year 'round. Trying to do some of that myself this year,
and a couple notes to add:
- Of all the hydra. cylinders rebuilt, only one kept leaking so I took it apart to check. Although I had dressed out the ridges
on the inside of the cylinder (easy with a Dremel and abrasive disk), I guess I missed the sharp edge around the rod-wire
hole, and that chopped the seal during reassembly. Here's an idea that worked real good. After I cleaned up around the
hole, I melted wax from a candle and filled the hole and then shaped it smooth. After the piston head went in, the wax was
easy to take out, and now there's no leak at all.
- Couple years back, one member answered me to "Get the tire chains" and I forgot who, but he was right on. Much better with
something to cut into packed snow on a slope. Someone else suggested chains for the front tires to prevent sliding sideways,
and that was also good advice.

Question: My starter key switch is beat up, and I wonder about putting a push button start switch right on the dash; anyone
recommend a quality push button starter ?

Well, keep warm . . . supposed to be -20 this weekend I hear. best to all.

 

[Wagtail]

Thanks for checking in Mate.

 

[SARG]

I like this global warming stuff. The middle of February and I have had to start the small tractor just once for about five inches of slushy crap. The big machine has been tucked in since November and with a little luck will stay that way until spring. Last year I had to shovel the roof three times before February ...... I like this winter much better.
I only hope we don't get crushed in March.

 

[Thomas]

Glad your still making dust.
Just couple days of old fashion winter temps that's all,before you know it mud and biting bugs.

 

[Alexhasson]

my 76 T3-15 came stock with a push button and toggle switch. when I upgraded to a new engine it came with a key start. after review i would pick the key start. only because there are less parts to fail.

 

[the old grind]

T-M ignition wiring and switches are quite simple but one thing you need to be aware of is that some engines are 'ground-to-run' and some are 'ground-to-stop'. Ex: Honda GX-620 is GTS and GX-630 is GTR if chosen as replacement. Honda includes a fuel stop solenoid in the carb bowl in addition to T-M's behind the dash. These and light switch are what's powered in ign 'run' position. Experience gained when helping a fellow TBNer to upgrade from GX-620 to GX-690 and work around the 'reversed' switch/engine details. (Kohler and others will be one or the other type.)

Auto parts stores carry generic replacement switches that include an 'M' terminal and start position for use with GTS motors. My OEM switch had been replaced and the wiring cobbled for not including 'M'. 'Shut-off' was achieved by fuel starvation, and when starting up there was a 'cranking interval' to refill the carb. I was able to reconnect a mis-wired relay to the coils and lo oil shutdown switch for normal function with a 'wrong' ign switch.

btw, I'm always here (somewhere on TBN ) to assist with T-M wiring, and other bits, so don't forget who offered. tog

 

[Alan7s]

Thanks for helpful info. My keyswitch (Kohler Command) works, but is pretty worn. A new one from T-M would be nice, would fit the mounting hole,
and avoid the GTS / GTR problems but probably very expensive. Now if the mounting holes are standard . . . . By the way, what's the "M" stand for?

 

[the old grind]

'M' is a switch terminal that is used to ground-out the coils in the 'Off' position, what to look for if you are GTS. True to form, T-M switch mount hole fits those you'd buy from auto parts or mower shops, and they run <$20 where I see 'em.

Determining which your Kohler has is as simple as disconnecting a coil primary wire while running (no zap) and see if a cyl cuts out. If it does, you are GTR. If it stays running you'd want the 'M' terminal-equipped switch, or could use a relay as workaround like I did. tog

(keep asking, or PM me, if you're puzzled. )

 

[SARG]

Back to the winter topic ........... from -20f on Saturday morning to a forecasted +51f tomorrow....... a seventy degree swing in two days .... wow.

 

[Alan7s]

Here's a scan of the electrical page from the manual. I see the "M" on the switch

 

[the old grind]

Here's a scan of the electrical page from the manual. I see the "M" on the switch

View attachment 457291

GTS, then, like the earlier Hondas. (GX-630, 660, & 690 are GTR if you upgrade)

What I did (because the generic relay with socket was 'hanging around') was to tie the Low Oil Shutdown and coil wires to the NC term and ground the 'commons'.

When the relay is energized they are 'open'. Either LOS or de-energizing the solenoid grounds the coils and shuts 'er down. Be sure to tie the two together after the relay and not between relay & ign terminal so LOS will function normally.

If I had to pay for the relay I would have replaced the switch instead, pro'ly cheaper but surely simpler. Easier to find this type switch on the rack than on their website, but Advance Auto is where I see switches with 'M'. tog

 

[Alan7s]

OK thanks, I'll take a look there. One more question which shows my lack of knowledge in these things. Why doesn't just cutting the power
to the coil stop the engine? Why would anything need to be grounded to stop?

 

[the old grind]

It's just one of a few ways to control the ignition on the primary side. Not all applications have 12v systems other than for starting. (T5c only has lighting) Since this is really a magneto setup, only needs the secondary (it's grounded internally) circuit path to do the biz. If the throttle stuck WFO, would you like to pull plug wires if spurting fuel or your upside down? ... :laughing:

Ground to run is safety drive. A broken connection to dead-man or 'M' terminal with a magneto-fired engine leaves stalling, fuel starvation, or LOS as remaining shutdown possibilities. Needing a complete connection to keep 'er running means if stuff falls apart it can't 'run on' should SHTF.

Be aware that whether your T-M is GTS or GTR do NOT wire 12v to the coils from the ign switch or anywhere else. They will fry in short time. (They are all self-energizing.)

I can put up switch ladder diagrams and maybe links to sources of both switch types tomorrow. (SC, or wherever) These could help one vet a switch with confusingly-marked terminals if they go shopping around.