More on leaking axle seals and vents

[dfkrug]

So when I remove the spindle housing from the axle housing, I need only remove the four bolts and hope the steering cooperates? And for the installation, can I use the Ultra Black RTV I already have or is the JD TY6304 sealant special in some way?

My only real concern is the power steering lines. Is all the fluid going to start draining when I unplug them or just the little bit in the ends? I hate making a mess so it'd be nice to know what to expect.

A good quality RTV silicone that is not too old will work fine. I have used
black, blue, and orange successfully.

Maybe I said too much about the steering. The spindle is attached by the
4 bolts and the tie rod end. I just removed the tie rod ends. If you do not
want to do that, then you can leave the tie rod end attached, and swivel the
whole spindle/hub assembly around the tie rod connection. This will be
easier if you open up the steering cylinder so it can move.

Of course, all this is moot if you take off the whole axle and drill the
pumpkin. When you detach the 2 PS hoses, there will be some drippage,
but not a whole lot. If you accidentally push either end of the cyl, the
open hoses will squirt. I usually drain cyls before I make a huge mess.
I would do that by elevating both wheels, then disconnect the hoses,
then steer the wheels lock-to-lock with the hose ends in a catch
container. Don't forget and start the tractor with the hoses off.

To take off the axle, you will have to remove both pivot saddles. That
should be interesting.

 

[arrabil]

I just removed the tie rod ends. If you do not want to do that, then you can leave the tie rod end attached, and swivel the whole spindle/hub assembly around the tie rod connection.

In order to remove the diff cover I need to get the whole steering out of the way. Looks easiest to remove the steering brackets after separating the spindle housings from the axle. It would probably be smartest to remove one tie-rod so that I don't push fluid out of the steering cylinder and have to worry about bleeding it. Know where to get a replacement boot? I'm pretty much guaranteed to destroy it.

all this is moot if you take off the whole axle and drill the pumpkin.

I don't think thats true. The diff cover contains the diff and gears like on a Yota or Ford 9" axle so I have to pull both axle shafts before I can take the diff cover off.

To take off the axle, you will have to remove both pivot saddles. That should be interesting.

What makes you say that? The manual just says you remove four bolts on both sides and the axle drops out. They don't talk about the pivots in the manual so I don't really know but I have the same axle as what you show a couple posts ago and the pivots don't look to be in the way at all. I had no intention of touching them. You know something different?

I'm gonna need to figure out what size hex head those steering bracket bolts are and buy a bit that size. Do you have any that big that you'd want to try out and let me know the size?

I don't believe I've dealt with roll pins before.... do you replace them? I need to pop at least the one to get the driveshaft separated. Do I just reinstall that one during assembly or do I need a new one?

 

[dfkrug]

It would probably be smartest to remove one tie-rod so that I don't push fluid out of the steering cylinder and have to worry about bleeding it. Know where to get a replacement boot? I'm pretty much guaranteed to destroy it.

Yeah, take the tie rod ends off. Note that an automotive pickle fork is
not big enough, and that is how you tear the boots. I used a small sledge
hammer and an aluminum block on the stud from below. JD does not sell
the boot separately, and tie rod ends are $160 each!

 

[dfkrug]

The diff cover contains the diff and gears like on a Yota or Ford 9" axle so I have to pull both axle shafts before I can take the diff cover off.

Yeah, you are right. I did not open my front diff, so you are getting into
one area that I did not. Both axles pull right out....mine had surface
corrosion on them.

 

[dfkrug]

What makes you say that? The manual just says you remove four bolts on both sides and the axle drops out.

...

I don't believe I've dealt with roll pins before.... do you replace them? I need to pop at least the one to get the driveshaft separated. Do I just reinstall that one during assembly or do I need a new one?

Those four bolts on each side of the subframe support the two axle
pivots....they look like saddles. I believe those bolts are 18mm, which
most socket sets do not have. I went out and bought one (1/2" drive).

The drive shaft uses roll pins in the couplers. You can reuse them if they
are in good shape. I have one of those roll pin assortments, so I usually
have replacements when I don't want to use the old one. Some would
say to always replace them, and it does get rusty under there. JD also
uses some funky double roll pins in some places. They look like a small
roll pin inside the larger one.

 

[nmu98]

arrabil,
If you drill another hole in your axle and vent it, I bet your warranty on that axle is done. That seems a lot to risk being that there seem to be no complaints about the 3x20 series axles.

Also, your resale might be decreased due to people wondering why you vented the axle. I would wonder if I was looking at the tractor. I would assume you drove through a lot of water many times and had issues with the setup to make changes.

Very, very, very long term you might be helping the axle seals, but you might not be also. Is it worth it?

 

[arrabil]

I used a small sledge hammer and an aluminum block on the stud from below. JD does not sell the boot separately, and tie rod ends are $160 each!

Thanks for the hint. I'll do that after flipping the axle over and save myself some trouble.

mine had surface corrosion on them.

That is so strange considering they are 95% submerged in there. I wonder if it didn't happen after you drained the oil but before you got them out?

I believe those bolts are 18mm, which most socket sets do not have.

I'm good. I got 3mm-36mm minus 33mm which I have never had a reason to buy. Even got the elusive 12pt 5.5mm used on Ford ABS sensors. What I do need to figure out is the size of the huge allen heads on the steering brackets. Probably gonna have to mic one and then compare it to the bits in True Value.

dfkrug, it looks like it'll be next week when I start on this. The well leak is fixed but now the tank isn't right and I finally got my parts for my trimmer adapter and I need to get that done ASAP. And of course the customers always call after I've made other plans....

nmu98, you have me confused with someone else. I have a 4200. It hasn't been under warranty for almost ten years. I'm fairly confident this is my last utility tractor and that it will outlive me. I'm a big fan of the all-mechanical design. I gots no need fur yur fancy ee-hydro and all thems durned com-puters. Maybe if we get another property I'd step up to a bigger machine but ideally it would still be a 4500-4700. And if we do sell it for reasons I can't predict, drilling the pumpkin puts the one (not another) hole out of sight and it can easily be plugged and no one would ever know the difference. If you look at the vent I already made you'll notice I specifically designed something that could be undone. The yellow dipstick is currently sitting in the tractor parts bin....

 

[nmu98]

Thanks for the hint. I'll do that after flipping the axle over and save myself some trouble.


That is so strange considering they are 95% submerged in there. I wonder if it didn't happen after you drained the oil but before you got them out?


I'm good. I got 3mm-36mm minus 33mm which I have never had a reason to buy. Even got the elusive 12pt 5.5mm used on Ford ABS sensors. What I do need to figure out is the size of the huge allen heads on the steering brackets. Probably gonna have to mic one and then compare it to the bits in True Value.

dfkrug, it looks like it'll be next week when I start on this. The well leak is fixed but now the tank isn't right and I finally got my parts for my trimmer adapter and I need to get that done ASAP. And of course the customers always call after I've made other plans....

nmu98, you have me confused with someone else. I have a 4200. It hasn't been under warranty for almost ten years. I'm fairly confident this is my last utility tractor and that it will outlive me. I'm a big fan of the all-mechanical design. I gots no need fur yur fancy ee-hydro and all thems durned com-puters. Maybe if we get another property I'd step up to a bigger machine but ideally it would still be a 4500-4700. And if we do sell it for reasons I can't predict, drilling the pumpkin puts the one (not another) hole out of sight and it can easily be plugged and no one would ever know the difference. If you look at the vent I already made you'll notice I specifically designed something that could be undone. The yellow dipstick is currently sitting in the tractor parts bin....

SORRY! I thought you had a 3520! You actually have the tractor that does have issues with axles. I don't know why I thought otherwise, its right in your signature.

I think you are doing the smart thing!:thumbsup:

 

[arrabil]

Thanks for the support. I think I would do the same on a new, out-of-warranty machine too though. Anything that has pressure even after sitting is going to be a problem, IMO.

 

[dfkrug]

That is so strange considering they are 95% submerged in there. I wonder if it didn't happen after you drained the oil but before you got them out?...

I found corrosion there and on parts of the bearings. Disassembly was
immediately after draining the oil.

I know the socket head bolts you are referrring to....I suspect 10mm.....
I will check the size.