Mounting a fireplace mantel

[JMER817]

I'm looking to mount a 6' wide by 9" deep by 2.75 thick cherry wood mantel above the wood fireplace. Trying to figure out the best way to mount it. Don't wish to add corbels below for support. I'm thinking of adding a backer board in between the studs in the wall. Then screwing (lags) from inside the fireplace chase thru the backer board into the mantel. Thinking of also placing a small pc of angle iron in front under the mantel attached to the mantel and screwed into the wall. The angle iron will be covered with stone / mortar. Sounds like it should work right? Only concern is splitting the wood when drilling into from the backside so screw size will be critical. Any thoughts or other options?

 

[dave1949]

Make it a slide-on mantel?

A custom metal bracket firmly screwed to the framing with maybe five 3/4" X 7" round stock bars (sticking out of the room side) that are welded to the bracket. Drill five matching holes in the rear edge of the mantel for the bars to slide on to.

 

[Budweiser John]

Make it a slide-on mantel?

A custom metal bracket firmly screwed to the framing with maybe five 3/4" X 7" round stock bars (sticking out of the room side) that are welded to the bracket. Drill five matching holes in the rear edge of the mantel for the bars to slide on to.

Yup, Dave's got the right idea. Given the thickness of the mantel I think three support rods would be plenty especially using 3/4" bar stock. Simply weld or have welded the bar stock perpendicular to some 1/4 X 3" flat stock about a foot long. Weld in the center so the flat stock can be bolted to the side of the wall studs with the rods pointing outward.
Mark and drill the edge of the plank. I'de use a 1" drill for the holes,slather some construction adhesive in the holes and tap into place. Should be there for a generation or two. Don't forget a groove about 1" or a little more from the wall side for decorative plates and a electrical outlet for the Christmas lights.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

I had the same dilemma a few years back when I did mine. I took two 18" pieces of 1" x 1/4" flat stock, lagged them to the back of the mantle so there was 10 to 12" above and below the mantle. I also spaced them so they would line up with the studs behind the fire place. Mine was a gas fireplace so no block to deal with. Then just put two 3/8" lag bolts through each piece of stele into the studs. The stone covers up all of the lag bolts and steel. If you were attaching it to a block chimney just use some tapcon screws.

Another option is a french cleat made from a 2x4. Rip one in half at a 45deg angle. Mount one half on the wall and the other on the back of the mantle. Then just set the mantle on the board on the wall and the angles lock everything in place. Google french cleat to see examples.

 

[forgeblast]

Here is mine, http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/213935-rustic-fireplace-mantle.html

 

[cartod]

I too did not want to use corbels but once I cut the ends off of the mantle and looked at them mounted underneath, I was sold.

 

[EddieWalker]

I used a couple of metal brackets from Lowes that where pretty thick and already had some holes in them with some lag bolts. Then I just screwed it all into the studs in the wall above the fireplace. Once in place, the rock went on below and above it to hide the brackets and offer support from the bottom.

Keep it simple

Eddie

 

[Western]

Cartod and Eddie, those turnout great:thumbsup: Eddie like the hidden straps, mantel looks great with the stain.

 

[wawajake]

I did a similar mantle job and did not want support wood underneath........so this hunk of maple in picture (for my daughters house) ....was hung using six 7 or 8 inch long high tensile small diameter lag screws countersunk at 45 degree angle thru mantle from top and into wood I had located previously under the drywall........and then the faux finish stone was added after (concrete product that using clips)
The lags were found at home depot, can't remember name but they were black painted 7 or 8 inch long maybe quarter inch shank thickness with a hex head that was small enough to countersink without easily seeing from top , but big enough to hold wood (tensile strength was boasted about on the package).

 

[Western]

I did a similar mantle job and did not want support wood underneath........so this hunk of maple in picture (for my daughters house) ....was hung using six 7 or 8 inch long high tensile small diameter lag screws countersunk at 45 degree angle thru mantle from top and into wood I had located previously under the drywall........and then the faux finish stone was added after (concrete product that using clips)
The lags were found at home depot, can't remember name but they were black painted 7 or 8 inch long maybe quarter inch shank thickness with a hex head that was small enough to countersink without easily seeing from top , but big enough to hold wood (tensile strength was boasted about on the package).

That one also turned out nice, great job.:thumbsup:

 

[JMER817]

All great ideas! I think what I will do is close to my original idea, but will use the "French cleat" idea. I looked at them at Lowes today and the 18" length is rated to hold 200lbs. I will put 3 of these along the back and probably still put a small angle iron pc below. The grout and stone will cover the angle iron. There will be about I'm guessing a 1/4" gap from the mantel to the back wall from using the metal cleat idea. I will just caulk this which will be along the side and top of the mantel.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

A while back I mounted a 6' piece of 4x8 rough sawn cedar using three 1/2" lag bolts. First I found the studs in the wall, then marked the stud locations on a 6' 2x4 to use as a pattern. Drilled 1/4" holes in the 2x4 using a drill press so they were straight and square. Then I put the 2x4 up on the wall and used the holes as a guide when drilling the wall. Put the 2x4 on the back of the cedar mantle and drilled 1/4" holes, then enlarged them to 1/2". I made sure that the holes into the cedar were drilled from the opposite side of the pattern board than was used on the wall. I enlarged the holes in the wall to accept the 1/2" lag bolts, installed the bolts leaving about 6" sticking out (they were BIG lag bolts), then cut off the heads. Slipped the mantle onto the lags to check fit, then backed it off a couple inches and slathered the wall and bolts with construction adhesive before pushing it back in place. The wall turned out not to be very straight, so I had to caulk between the cedar and the wall to fill the gap, but the mantle was high enough to not show. A year later I tore it all out to install a wood stove, and needed a 4' crow bar to get the mantle board off, so I'd say it was plenty sturdy