Mounting a tire

   / Mounting a tire #41  
Iron Horse, I don't recall hearing the term "cross ply" before, but I sure do remember working on some with the rust you mentioned. And when you talk about the "lock ring", I think you are talking about the same wheels we called a "split ring" wheel, as opposed to a "split rim" wheel.

Egon, I never knew of anyone putting tires in a fire to heat them up. When we had the Mobil service station, we did a lot of tire work, but didn't sell many tires because Mobil tires were so expensive. We had a White Auto Store about a block from the station and he sold more tires than anyone in town because they were cheap, and he paid us to do all the mounting and balancing. I don't know who made the White Auto tires back then, but those were the stiffest sidewall, worst tires to work with that I ever saw. But apparently they wore pretty well.

Reg, yep, I've done lots of bicycle tires with no tools other than my hands. Even sandburs would penetrate those tires, so I used lots of Monkey Grip patches when I was a kid.
 
   / Mounting a tire #43  
Bedlam said:
I never knew there is a 'shelf' life of a tire

ABC News: Aged Tires: A Hidden Danger on the Road?

my friend just bought two that were 7 years old. (brand new) they were and odd size so they have probably been sitting around in the wharehouse

Are there any rubber products that do not deteriorate with age; i.e., fan belts, hoses, tires, windshield wipers, etc.? Of course we usually hear of such things as "dry rot" on tires in use, as on many trailers, when the tires are not worn out, but are old. There's been a variety of recommendations over the years to replace tires that are 5 to 7 years old regardless of wear. New, unsold tires, stored inside out of the weather, especially the sun, will last longer, but yep, there's still a "shelf life" although I'm not sure how long it is.
 
   / Mounting a tire #44  
Bird said:
Are there any rubber products that do not deteriorate with age; i.e., fan belts, hoses, tires, windshield wipers, etc.? Of course we usually hear of such things as "dry rot" on tires in use, as on many trailers, when the tires are not worn out, but are old. There's been a variety of recommendations over the years to replace tires that are 5 to 7 years old regardless of wear. New, unsold tires, stored inside out of the weather, especially the sun, will last longer, but yep, there's still a "shelf life" although I'm not sure how long it is.

Most of the major manufacturer's now have a time limit, 6 to 7 years, in their warranty as well as a mileage warranty.
 
   / Mounting a tire #45  
Anyone ever changed a tyre on a "Tri-Lex" rim ? The rim is in three pieces , cut into pie sections . M.A.N trucks used to have them , the truck came with special levers to change them . You would put 2 sections in place in the tyre and butt them together . Then you would put the end of the third section against the second ones end . You would then lever the last end into place and then pump the tyre up . I was always checking for flat tyres on my truck because i believed that if you drove with one flat the rim would come apart and come off the spider . Bird.// We use the term cross ply to describe Nylon belted non radial tyres as the nylon belts (plies) are crossed over one another . Ergon .// Is that fair dinkum ?
 
   / Mounting a tire #46  
Ah, so you call them cross ply and we call them bias ply.:) I had one of the smallest Winnebago Brave motorhomes in 1973 with those bias ply nylon tires. I never had a problem or flat with them, but when you started off with them cold, that flat spot on the bottom would sure make it rattle the dishes in the cabinets for the first few miles.:D

I can't recall ever seeing a Tri-lex or 3 piece wheel. If I ever saw one, I've forgotten it.
 
   / Mounting a tire #47  
The bias car tyres also bumped right along in the cold northern weather!:D :D :D
 
   / Mounting a tire #48  
I've changed the fronts on my L4400 twice. Once with help, once on my own. I've helped change tubes in full sized ag tries twice. I'm comfortable that I know how to do it, but I doubt I'll ever do it again.

If you're the type of guy who feels like you have to know how to do everything, then there's been excellent advice here on how to do it. But I see two problems with this. 1) All of us know that being told how to do something and actually being able to do it are two different things. You learn a lot more when you do something a lot....all the little tips and finesse things that make a tricky job go faster. When you don't have a feel for these things it can make a simple job last a long time. 2) It costs so little to let someone else do it. For me, time is more important than $20 and working myself into a cussing, sweaty, red faced frenzy over a cantankerous tire isn't worth saving $20 either.

I also remember one of my first experiences in an ER. The story was that this guy was inflating a car tire. Have no idea what kind of tire, but something blew. Rim, tire, I don't know. But, it shattered his arm and his jaw. I heard that he lost the arm. This is to vague a story to have any practical application for any of us.....but its always in the back of my mind when working on tires.
 
   / Mounting a tire #49  
That is not a vague story. It has happened to many a fellow.:D :D

It also killed many a fellow.:( :(
 
   / Mounting a tire #51  
Does anyone know whether we have Trilex wheels in the USA? I don't remember ever seeing anything like that.
 
   / Mounting a tire #52  
I've never seen one but then there is much I have not seen!:D :D

We used to have wooden wheels with metal tyres on farm wagons that were on the same principle though.:D
 
   / Mounting a tire #53  
Bedlam, Luckily you weren't hurt. The tongue mounted spare on one of my trailers blew up. Looked like it had been dynamited. Luckily I wasn't near it but I sort of wish I could have been around (at a safe distance) to see what happened.

Pat
 
   / Mounting a tire #54  
If you have done this before you learn the well thing real fast...ok sometimes slow. No matter what the tire they are easy to put on if you keep the bead in the wel and use some soapy water to help slide it on or seal the bead. Sometimes it is hard to keep the bead in the well. But no one mentioned my method for removing a tire. Actually the hardest part IMO. Yep I remember guys busting the bead with that sledge, 4 pound hammer and chisel. I use something a bit easier...and heavier. Usually only have to turn it once to get the other side. I did the 4 atv tires (6 ply Mud Lites gong back on) in about 40 minutes total. About 15-20 to replace the Tube on the L.
 

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   / Mounting a tire #55  
Bird and Iron Horse,
I have what I guess are split rim wheels that came off a manure spreader. I bought new tires since the old ones are quite rotten. I want to remove the tires and clean up the rims before I have someone who knows what they are doing mount the new tires. How do I go about removing the ring and can I clean the rust off and paint the rims and split ring?
 
   / Mounting a tire #56  
Rob, I never used your method of breaking the bead loose when I was working in a shop or service station doing tire work, but I've used it more than once on my own tires at home.:)

Eric, you need to remove the valve core to completely deflate the tire, then break the bead loose from the rim as with any kind of wheel. Now the question is whether you have a split rim or a split ring wheel. If it's a split rim; i.e., two pieces approximately the same size and solid circles, you pry them apart in the middle. If it's a split ring; i.e., just the bead of the rim and is just what its name says, a steel ring that is broken in one spot. there should be a visibly "notch" near the split to start with your pry bar and work your way around. Most of our cleaning of rust was done with a good sized wire brush, but if you have a wire wheel on a heavy duty drill or angle grinder, that should be faster.
 
   / Mounting a tire #57  
Boy.. wish I had read this thread before I started my own ill fated tire repair project.

I just hate having to depend on someone else and I was hoping to be able to get some work done on the tractor this weekend.

I broke the bead with a couple pry bars. My huge mistake was that I figured I could take a look to see if there was something around the valve that might be leaking that I could just tighten... WITHOUT unloading the tires!... big mistake as you can imagine.

I've left the project for now with about 1/3 the bead over the rim. Figure there is no point in me trying to put it back. Valve is still accessible. I figure when the tire guy gets here on Tuesday the first thing he will want to do is unload the darn thing and then get the tire and tube off the rim. I'll suggest that he bring over a new tube as I'm pretty sure I put another hole in the darn thing while trying to pry the bead over the rim :-(

Probably my last project to do with tires. Pretty daft of me to try to go at it without getting much advice or thinking it through. LIve and learn I guess.
 
   / Mounting a tire #59  
Thanks Bird. These have split rings. The gaping holes from rot have taken care of letting the air out. Since the rings are rusty should I hit them with a hammer to help break them loose before prying on them? So if I clean them up and get some primer and equipment paint from TSC I should be OK?
 
   / Mounting a tire #60  
Eric_Phillips said:
Thanks Bird. These have split rings. The gaping holes from rot have taken care of letting the air out. Since the rings are rusty should I hit them with a hammer to help break them loose before prying on them? So if I clean them up and get some primer and equipment paint from TSC I should be OK?

Eric, knowing how dangerous those things can be, I'm leary of giving much advice without actually seeing what we're working on (seeing it in person, in fact); however, yes, if it were me I'd probably tap on them with a hammer first to jar things loose a bit, and then once they're apart and thoroughly cleaned, primed, and painted, they'll probably be good. But before I painted them, I'd want to inspect them carefully. How much has rusted off the "lip" of the ring that fits into the wheel rim? In other words, is it still solid and will it hold when you put it back together. That's really one that should be aired up in a cage. And on the parts where metal fits to metal; i.e., the ring to the wheel, personally, I wouldn't want paint that might make it slick enough to come apart.
 

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