Mouse Proofing

   / Mouse Proofing #21  
We have one of the ultrasonic thingies in the attic, right next to where the mice love to congregate.

I have 3 or 4 in my garage (Costco had a special). There are rat & mouse droppings all over the place.
 
   / Mouse Proofing #22  
I would like to address a few of the comments.....

1) The electronic devices don't work at all, under any circumstances.

2) A well fed cat has no desire to catch mice, and when it comes to rats, a smart cat will stay away from them, knowing that a rat can do a lot of damage to a cat. There are exceptions, but usually the outcome is the cat looses. Some mice keep cats company when you are not home.

3) Mice can breed approximately every 6 weeks and their life expectancy is about 1 year, unless they get picked off by a owl or some other predator. Female mice become sexually mature at 6 weeks after birth and males at 8 weeks. If you do the math, a pair of mice can quickly multiply to the point that you have a major infestation.

4) Mouse poisons such as Decon are anti coagulant type of poisons. The chemical name is Warfan, the same type of product is given to humans for heart disease. When a mouse ingests the poison, and then slips through a small hole, the body gets bruised, and that bruise will bleed internally until the mouse dies from hemorrhaging. I have heard that some mice will develop a resistance to this form of poisoning, but I have never been able to confirm this independently. I don't use Decon, but another product that was manufactured by Purina called Assault. I found that it worked better for my mouse control. I suggest that you change brands of poison periodically to assure that the poisons will continue to work.

5) The old fashioned mouse trap is still the most effective way. Mice run along the walls, not across the floor, so place the traps along the walls whenever possible. If the mouse trap has become contaminated with blood, then wash it in hot running water before you reuse it.

6) Mice are cannibalistic if there is a shortage of food. They will devour any carcass that is in a trap. They will also eat a poisoned mouse, and that in turn is how they develop a immunity to the poisons, so I believe.

7) If your cat eats a mouse that has been poisoned, it will not harm the cat. The poison isn't that strong and the cats body will not have a negative reaction to the poison. I got this information a long time ago from my veterinarian.

House Mouse Prevention & Control

Dusty
 

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   / Mouse Proofing #23  
Now those pictures are just to cute. Looks like the little critter found a nice big fluffy bed to sleep on.
 
   / Mouse Proofing #24  
I've had a few bad experiences with mice in my job of all places. I work for a food company, and our warehouses attract the little buggers every once in a while. Having spent numerous hours with pest control experts, I would ask the questions they've asked me:

Is there any construction going on nearby? If so, move your trailer further away...they may find another likely home.

Can you safely put out bait? If so, here's a link to help you out:
Search Results

I also liked the simplest solution MEOW.
 
   / Mouse Proofing #25  
Ok, i bought a new house in nj, and have had mice every winter in the basement. I went on a 'mission'! i FINALLY found out, after going around the foundation, that they MUST be coming from underneath the steps, or elsewhere in the garage... I remove the mudroom steps... low and behold.. a gap that needed to be sealed up! (via drywall patch). fyi i put base molding around the drywall to the garage and caulked it.. i used 'flashing' on some moldings where there'd been obvious mouse entries...

WHats this to do w/ a trailer? go around the foundation -- look for weak spots/points of entry, seal as determined by the adjacent materials of any breach. as a funny sidelight.. we used to watch tv in the basement, i'd get me beer flowing and would watch late night tv w/ the better half!.. the mice would run over the carpet and i would bait them w/ american cheese and a -victor non-lethal trap... sometimes i'd use my hand to induce them to the trap! any hoo--- ive had pet mice growing up.. i like the little guys, excepting their prolific droppings!!!! good luck.. OH YEA,, BTW, TRY MOTH BALLS (NAPHTA).. SUPPOSED TO WORK FOR THE LAST HUNDERED YEARS OR SO, just'll make the place stink like, well, mothballs! ;) -Tim
 
   / Mouse Proofing #26  
Very good statement DUSTY. Very informative.And the pics.. Typical..LOL
I had what seemed to be a funny one reciently. I have a new blue tarp in the back of the garage, and fetched it to take to my uncles to rake leaves. Well. I grabbed the tarp and headed into the basement to put it in the trunk, as I went throught the walk in door. I noticed a mouse walked in on my left. On my right was the cat, hmm with that look on its face..They both went their ways.The cat did get the mouse later that day.
The tarp held the urine stink all day.. In fact, I left the tarp there...as I was raking and truend to see the dog roll in it.(they love that).
When building he house, I had a joint compund bucket filled with water about 1/4 up and a 2x4 must have fallen on it, Anyway when I returned days later there were dead mice in it.
My battle continues...Seems to be alot more this year up here in the north east though.
Thanks for the post Dusty ..
Allan
 
   / Mouse Proofing #27  
A 5 gallon bucket can be used to make a high volume mouse trap. Put in 3" of water, cover the top with heavy kraft paper or 6 mil poly, cut an X in the covering about 2/3 of the way across, dap peanut butter on the points of the X. Place a short board as an access ramp at the side of the bucket. If in an area subject to freezing use antifreeze in the bucket. If there is any potential for pet access use non-toxic antifreeze.
Another option is to skewer a 1 litre bottle w/cap lengthwise with a 1/8" rod so it will spin, dab PB on the bottle (or poke "smell" holes in the bottle & smear PB inside) & secure the 'axle' across the top of the bucket in place of the paper/poly.
If used in warm weather where emptying will be infrequent pour some 5 wt oil on top of the water to suppress the odor of the decomposing mice. If used outside enclose in a cage with openings to permit only target species. MikeD74T
 
   / Mouse Proofing #28  
Here's something of a serious note re: rodent droppings/urine. SAFETY archives -- October 2004, week 1 (#35)
This is very uncommon for New Hampshire, I believe historically more common in the southwest US. There is old American Indian culture that dictates burning anything that is found contaminated with droppings/urine. MikeD74T
 
   / Mouse Proofing #29  
Dusty-both of my cats are very well fed and they catch and kill and/or eat mice all the time. it all depends on how they were brung up.
 
   / Mouse Proofing #30  
I despise cats in general. I raise beagles to run rabbits and cats are known to decimate rabbit populations. I'm also very allergic to cats. Even still, I've seriously considered getting one to catch mice around the house and barn (outside only).
 

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