OK, here is what I'd like to do. Some years ago, we had a pond expanded and the dirt was just spread on the existing dam. This made it high, in some places 4 feet above water level. Also, erosion caused the top to become rather narrow. I've never liked the result of this project, and would love to remove some of this soil, at least enough to take the peak out. So I've been considering some box blades, but I've never used one. How are they for actually cutting and moving soil. Dragging the soil would be slow, but probably one of the safer ways of moving it. Or what about a dirt scoop. Have you ever seen one with teeth attached. I have seen the scoops used. Again, slow, but cutting off a crown should not take forever.
Moving around dirt
- Thread starter HRS
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gotrocks
Platinum Member
If I wanted to lower the top of my dam the boxblade is my choice. If you want to move the dirt away from the dam then a FEL or scoop would be my choice. With the box I think you could raise it on one side and let it push the soil toward the edge and that would make the top wider. OR a regular blade set at an angle may work better for that operation.
I would still start with my "oversized" box blade then if that did now seem to work then go to reg. blade set a angle.
I would still start with my "oversized" box blade then if that did now seem to work then go to reg. blade set a angle.
Egon
Epic Contributor
How wide is the top now and how deep is the water?
wushaw
Elite Member
A Box Blade will work just fine if you don't have to drag the dirt far.
phxraptor
Bronze Member
Please be very careful working on top of a dam with a tractor. Especially a tractor with an attachment. Went on a medical call not long ago where a person was spraying on top of a dam and the liqued shifted in the sprayer tank causing the tractor to roll. The man was dead when we got there from being crushed when the tractor landed on him.
N80
Super Member
I agree that a box blade would be good for this. However, it occurs to me that if you simply want the dirt to slide off down either side a rear blade might make quick work of this. You just angle it to so the the dirt slides down the side of the dam. However, if the dirt is too hard for a rear blade to penetrate and grab then a BB will be the best choice.
And I agree about being careful too!
And I agree about being careful too!
So... maybe a box blade to cut the center run out. Then have a grader blade that offsets to one side to push the edges going and coming making them just roll on off. This way I would not have to actually drive right on the edge. Tractor would be center at all times.
Now, how do I go about getting a blade that has an offset of something like a foot? Has anyone seen one like this or custom job only?
Now, how do I go about getting a blade that has an offset of something like a foot? Has anyone seen one like this or custom job only?
Egon
Epic Contributor
Taking the top off the dam will be easiest just using the loader. Safer too.
Start on one side and dig down to the depth you want. This gives a nice base to work from and then just continue on dumping the dirt over the side.
Start on one side and dig down to the depth you want. This gives a nice base to work from and then just continue on dumping the dirt over the side.
sandman2234
Super Member
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The offset blades can be purchased. I bid on some nice ones at an auction in Oklahoma last spring, but didn't end up with any. The good ones command a premium price, so expect it. The ones I looked at were also very heavy, so hopefully you have enough tractor to handle the weight.
David from jax
David from jax
HRS,
Some of the rear blades have a bolt on moldboard blade that has alternate holes so you can mount the blade a foot to the left or right. The cheaper ones are just welded in place.
At least the older ones were that way.......................
Ron
Some of the rear blades have a bolt on moldboard blade that has alternate holes so you can mount the blade a foot to the left or right. The cheaper ones are just welded in place.
At least the older ones were that way.......................
Ron
schmism
Super Member
mine (a landpride) will swing off to the side, but the moldboard doesnt move.
as mentioned others (in this pricerange/duty range) have the ablity to move (slide or bolt location) the moldboard....
at full swing i can offset mine about 1.5-2' off the side as seen hear
(hear im set to knock the edge off the driveway and deposit it in the center thus giving me some much needed crown on the west edge)
as mentioned others (in this pricerange/duty range) have the ablity to move (slide or bolt location) the moldboard....
at full swing i can offset mine about 1.5-2' off the side as seen hear
(hear im set to knock the edge off the driveway and deposit it in the center thus giving me some much needed crown on the west edge)
stevenf
Platinum Member
HRS, I know you have received multiple responses on how careful you have to be but I have or had the exact same problem with one of my dams, problem is it is 30' wide on top of the main containment dam and only about 12' wide on my wings. It had gotten as you say eroded to the point that I wanted to reflatten the top of the dam I always have my BB mounted to offset weight when I'm using my loader luckily and I was using it to flatten the wings or outer edges of the dam and the edge caved in leaving my brand new tractor with less then 50 hours on it leaning over into a 20' deep dry creek bed. I crawled off the non operator (right side) of my machine afraid to even pause to kill the engine and walked to the house. The tractor was slanted like on a 35 degree or more angle, we first tied it to multiple small trees hoping that they would keep it from going over as it was slowly sinking on the left and then proceeded to dig out dirt from under both right side tires until we had it level, then we had to dig ruts 18" deep into the dam for all four tires to get it back on top and on firm footing. It took half a day to get this done and I haven't been more scared of anything since BE CAREFUL.
Now onto your project, my BB did a beautiful job of smoothing the top of the dam I just ran along the side SLOWLY my BB is wide enough so that any unused in leveling dirt just fell off the edge of the dam and I'm quite happy with the results, Tractor Loaders are not designed to be Bull Dozers and you can do major damage by trying to use them this way but hooked to the right implement a tractor can do wonders. I'm sure a Back Blade/Grader blade would work equally well for this job if the dam is not so hard that you can't get it to grade which I don't imagine would be the case unless the dam was very old and if its eroding I'd say its probably not. When you get thru you need to get some perennial grass/weeds growing on it to hold your dirt in place or sooner or later you'll be bringing in more fill to build your dam back up instead of smoothing off the top.
Steve
Now onto your project, my BB did a beautiful job of smoothing the top of the dam I just ran along the side SLOWLY my BB is wide enough so that any unused in leveling dirt just fell off the edge of the dam and I'm quite happy with the results, Tractor Loaders are not designed to be Bull Dozers and you can do major damage by trying to use them this way but hooked to the right implement a tractor can do wonders. I'm sure a Back Blade/Grader blade would work equally well for this job if the dam is not so hard that you can't get it to grade which I don't imagine would be the case unless the dam was very old and if its eroding I'd say its probably not. When you get thru you need to get some perennial grass/weeds growing on it to hold your dirt in place or sooner or later you'll be bringing in more fill to build your dam back up instead of smoothing off the top.
Steve
