Moving trailers around

   / Moving trailers around #11  
I would probably make or buy a 3pt hitch trailer mover attachment. They are generally less than $200. They put all the weight distributed among the 3pts, rather than just the one point a ball in the hole on the tractor, providing you already have the tractor 3pt...Just my:2cents:

Plus, you could just back up to the trailer, raise or lower the hitch to connect to the trailer, without getting off to raise or lower the jack. Just remember to lock the tongue :thumbsup:.

I have one of these and it is great for moving trailers around.:thumbsup:
 

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   / Moving trailers around #12  
Do you have a fel with your scut?

Wedge

I move trailers with a ball on the FEL. It is much easier to see where your parking it that way. I first tried the rear hitch and the visibility was not good if you have a high trailer.

I use my 1910 to back my car hauler into the pole barn. It is much easier than the truck.
 
   / Moving trailers around #13  
I think you'll do fine on flat ground. If you are worried about it getting away from you, wire in a connector so you can apply the electric brakes on the trailer.
 
   / Moving trailers around #14  
I move about 5000 lbs of boat and trailer around with a loader-mounted hitch, on a JD2520, but for your tractor, I'd probably stick with a three-point hitch. I'll bet it can handle it (level ground).
 

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   / Moving trailers around #15  
Here is what I designed for what you're talking about. It has a 2" insert for regular trailers and a larger gooseneck or 5th wheel ball on the top. I don't use any thin or weak materials either. I make my movers out of 3/8" side wall 2" square tubing with 1/2" flat bar bracing. No cheap crap here. That way you can use one implement for either type of trailer. Since everything around my area is concrete, I use the adapter shown in the 2nd picture on a fork of one of my forklifts to move any type of trailer, including pintle hitch trailers.

If you have an FEL on your tractor, I have designed several receivers that either weld on or bolt on them for moving trailers as well. It only took one trailer falling on a steel toe boot so hard that I had to have the boot cut off (boot saved my toes though!) for me to start designing better methods of moving trailers.
 

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   / Moving trailers around #16  
As a general practice when moving heavy items you should offset the weight. So in this case it means carry 700 lbs on both ends just to balance the load, then try to move 6500 lbs safely. All with a subcompact BX2360 that has specs that state:

3pt capacity = 670 lbs
FEL capacity = 745 lbs
Tractor weight = 1322 lbs.

Just carrying 700 lbs at both ends would be challange enough.

I think anyone that is suggesting a Kubota BX2360 can safely move a large and heavy 700/6500lb tongue/travel trailer, even on flat ground is :confused2:.

Just my opinion of course.
 
   / Moving trailers around #17  
I don't know your specific tractorette, but if it can't take it at the back it MIGHT be able to take it at the front.
I have an Andy Tatro adapter that goes over one half of a standard skid steer FEL hitch.
It has a standard 2 inch square receiver.
Another possibility is a front bumper hitch on your truck, THAT would also be useful at camp grounds.
It isn't the "Girlie way out" of maneuvering a trailer, sometimes it is just about the ONLY way that will work.

ONE thing to be VERY CAREFUL about with FEL and/or 3pt hitch trailer moving;
It can be very tempting to just lift the tongue and start moving the trailer - just DON'T !
a) Lift the tongue just enough to take the load off the tongue jack.
b) Wind the tongue jack up, to it's normal travel position.
c) Lower the ball to it's normal travel height.
 
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   / Moving trailers around #18  
I have towed a 5,000 pound towable Genie Manlift up a muddy hill which we got our F-250 stuck on. Then i towed it back down (in low)with not problem. But then again my 4320 weights 5,945 (w/loader and loaded R4's). I would be very careful towing with your bx.
 
   / Moving trailers around #19  
I own a Kubota 1830, and a Wildwood 32' (35.5' bumper to ball) camper, with 2 slide outs. Weights in at just under 7900 lbs.

I move it on my flat, gravel camper site with little problems. However, I MUST have either my loader on, or my 250lbs of suitcase weights on the front.

NOTE: I would NEVER attempt to move it far, or on anything with any kind of incline. I've had a 30' with 0 slide outs jackknife my 1830 on a 6" decline. (wet grass, but very tight spot, tractor was only thing that could do it).
 
   / Moving trailers around #20  
Also - if I were to do it regularly, I would NOT use the 3pt., as that increases the distance between your rear axle and ball. Every inch counts on these small tractors.

If you are just "putting it on the pad", then the 3pt should be fine. But, more than that, put it on the draw bar.
 

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