mowers.

   / mowers. #31  
Hi folks...what do you recommend for a mower that is rugged enough to cut a field, high grass. I have a brush hog but it never cuts clean and neat as it is not designed for that. ive seen sickle bars enough and flail mowers. Are the 3 blade finish type mowers capable of mowing thick grass etc.?? thanks
Yes finish mower , worked for me unfortunately it broke and can’t find parts, so back to using shredder, it does the job but finish mower looks cleaner cut.
 
   / mowers. #32  
I'm running a 72" land pride 3 blade rfm. I let my grass grow up to 12-24" before cutting it down to 4". But I'm in the sierra foothills so while the grass can grow tall, it's not very thick or wet.
I have the same setup in Alabama with thick, wet grass. If it gets too thick or wet, the belts slip like a clutch would on a brush hog leaving uncut grass; however, I use it as my sole mower for a couple of acres around the house and it looks significantly better than the hog. I have cut trails in my main pasture with the finishing mower and have to SIGNIFICANTLY reduce speed to a painful level that would take a month to finish the extra 10 acres with the finishing mower. If you cut with the brush hog first and then kept it tight with the finishing mower it could work but I suspect every 3-4 weeks it would need a fresh cut.
 
   / mowers. #33  
I just got a 72" Landpride, it does an amazing job vs my old 60" Howse. No welded corners either.
 
   / mowers. #34  
I'm guessing that goats are out of the question......

With my mower (flexwing) I have two blades that go one direction and the last blade goes the opposite direction.

So as I travel forward, one of the blades is cutting INTO the grass whereas the blade on the other side is cutting "with" the grass. The first blade always gives me a better/easier cut.

So if you have a similar situation, maybe change your cutting pattern so that you are primarily using the leading blade and let the trailing blade be your 'outer' blade where maybe it won't have as much raw greenery to tackle (??)
 
   / mowers. #35  
I am considering to buy a Land Pride RCD 1884 you might want to check it out.
RCD18 Series. Rotary Cutters. The RCD1884 is a smooth-top, offset cutter that performs best in grass-only applications. Being dual spindle, the cutter is shorter in length than single spindle 84" cutters; the reduced length allows for better maneuverability in tight spaces. The 10" offset makes the RCD1884 a good solution for applications
 
   / mowers.
  • Thread Starter
#36  
ok on both...thanks much
 
   / mowers. #37  
I think if you are asking for something that will cut deep thick grass smoothly, evenly, easily and cleanly on a single pass you are going to have to invent something, because it doesn't exist.
Cougsfan is exactly correct. I have tried 5, 6 and now 7 ft bush hogs on 3 different tractors over the last 20 years. Also a Landpride 2672 finish mower. In the last 5 years a 7.5ft Alamo flail mower.

None will ever give you a smooth cut (lawn-like) if you start with deep grass and especially deep WET grass. Depends on what you want and what you are willing to do to get there. If it is high quality cut, then how OFTEN you cut is the key sort of regardless of tools. Have to stay away from tall grass. And for the most part stay away from wet grass too.

-- If you cut often the 3 bladed finish mower (or for that matter a good ground following belly mower) will do the smoothest job.
-- Since you have a B2650, the Kubota belly mower is ground-following and hard to beat unless you have to let it grow a foot high before you cut. Pretty much same with the Landpride fionish mower. Unless you field is too big or your time too limited to cut it often, for Pete's sake use a belly mower on that great B2650!
-- The flail mower does a fast, easy job in deep grass and even somewhat wet. The result is NOT smooth lawn-like "flat-top haircut" quality but it is very uniform. Bumpy ground is not great for a flail because the roller runs on the ground all the time. It will not work well if you have obstacles like a lot of rocks or limbs that are 2" in diameter, etc. You can do that, but you'll be off the machine replacing flail knives so often you won't like it. I find it ideal for seasonal cutting of meadows where the grass may be 2 or 3 feet tall and the hay people have decided they don't want the grass or it is on too steep a ground for their hay equipment. Not so good for pasturefields where rocks and limb debri exist.
-- By the way, you may want to look around for a used flail mower of good name brand (like Alamo.) Auctions are great source. The darn things are too expensive new (worse than $4K.) They are built like a tank. Even when beat up for years by a state road crew or whatever they can generally be refurbished and serve well. I got mine for a song, replaced drive belt, a few knives, return spring and roller bearings and it is a real workhorse. Ideally rotate between the flail and the hog and use both as needed which is what I do.
-- If you can't cut often, the flail is fine but won't give you a flattop haircut look. [Nothing will.] But for tall grass where the goal is the smoothest cut, a good sharp Bush Hog is the best tool in my opinion. Pay attention to the angle (front low, rear higher) and to adusting your hyd lift settings. They make a lot of difference in quality of cut. Friend of mine uses a very old bush hog which is 4 bladed and that delivers probably the smoothest cut obtainable in tall grass.
 
   / mowers. #38  
Hi folks...what do you recommend for a mower that is rugged enough to cut a field, high grass. I have a brush hog but it never cuts clean and neat as it is not designed for that. ive seen sickle bars enough and flail mowers. Are the 3 blade finish type mowers capable of mowing thick grass etc.?? thanks
I have 3 Ferris mowers. Two 52" cutters, and a 61" cutter. I have cut over grown grass up to 4' tall. Gotta go a little slower, hihi. Trick is to cut a little high, and use sharp, balanced blades. Don't use blades that have been sharpened so many times there isn't much metal at the end. They would be fine for normal grass, tho. Use a newer blade with more weight at the end of the blade, flywheel effect so to speak.
My mowers have the Kawasaki engines.
 
   / mowers. #39  
I use my Woods rotary cutter for everything that involves brush and small trees, but for clean open field mowing it's finish mower or flail.

 
   / mowers. #40  
I haven't tried the following, but it's the cheapest solution put forth. Properly sharpened (for those that sharpen a bush hog blade) a bush hog blade has a 1/8" cutting edge. Have it sharpened to 1/16" - like a finish mower blade. And give it a shot.
 
 

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