Mowing slopes with a tractor

[jcummins]

I've already gave you lots of info concerning the F but you didn't mention a tractor.
On my hillside property I've owned/own several BXs, several Bs and one L3240. The L may be more stable than a B but my Butt muscle kept telling me it wasn't. Was scared to use the L on the hillside and traded it with around 50 to 75 hours on it.
For mowing on hillsides there is no comparison between a F mower and any Kubota tractor. Different league. Be like racing a Nash Rambler vs a MG through the mountains on curvy roads.
I've turned one tractor on it's side and was stopped when it happened. Been skittish ever since and never want to do it again. Hooked my truck to it and pulled it back upright in short order and no damage but the damage in my mind is still there every time I get on a tractor or F mower. It happens in fraction of a second. I've had several butt clinching moments before but I now have a new outlook on that slight bit of risk.:shocked:

IF I got the F series route, I'd sell or trade my ZD326....so it would end up being less money than going the tractor route. And I really like the idea of an out front mower, after using this ztr for 3 years. BUT....I've got 36+ acres and really could use a tractor, so I'm researching both approaches. If I go the tractor route, probably need to wait a year below finances permits it. But one comment made by one user....is you can't expect one machine to do it all...so I have not rules out the tractor.

Your comment "For mowing on hillsides there is no comparison between a F mower and any Kubota tractor. Different league." Are you saying the F series is considerably more stable? Because of the wet areas below these pond dams (it's not the dam leaking...this area has springs all over) mowing just up/down I'd like to avoid. I don't necessarily want to mow directly across the slope either. Don't think my pucker factor would handle it regardless of the machine. But I would like to angle across the slope.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

IF I got the F series route, I'd sell or trade my ZD326....so it would end up being less money than going the tractor route. And I really like the idea of an out front mower, after using this ztr for 3 years. BUT....I've got 36+ acres and really could use a tractor, so I'm researching both approaches. If I go the tractor route, probably need to wait a year below finances permits it. But one comment made by one user....is you can't expect one machine to do it all...so I have not rules out the tractor.

Your comment "For mowing on hillsides there is no comparison between a F mower and any Kubota tractor. Different league." Are you saying the F series is considerably more stable? Because of the wet areas below these pond dams (it's not the dam leaking...this area has springs all over) mowing just up/down I'd like to avoid. I don't necessarily want to mow directly across the slope either. Don't think my pucker factor would handle it regardless of the machine. But I would like to angle across the slope.

Absolutely more stable. Not even in the same ball park. I mow my yard cross ways, diagonal and up and down to get the best mowing vs the same way every time.
The 0% on the F is for only 36 mo while tractors are 60 mo.
It does look like you need two. A tractor for tractor work and an F for mowing. If you have 2 acres or a hundred acres the F will mow it to yard standards so acres per se isn't a determining factor. Job requirements, money, life span and love/hate for certain jobs are the major factors and of course body wear and tear which gets over into the life span aspect. As well as pleasure or pain and benefit of money earned during those working hours.

 

[jcummins]

It does look like you need two. A tractor for tractor work and an F for mowing.

Ohhhh yes.....$$$$$ Wants v/s realities. But in my instance...getting old, and maintaining things to look nice is becoming difficult. Back, shoulders, and hips can't stand this weed eating...especially around the pond. A change to my driveway is going to add to this problem to, so I've convince myself I need to do something.

 

[TripleR]

Ohhhh yes.....$$$$$ Wants v/s realities. But in my instance...getting old, and maintaining things to look nice is becoming difficult. Back, shoulders, and hips can't stand this weed eating...especially around the pond. A change to my driveway is going to add to this problem to, so I've convince myself I need to do something.

A situation all too familiar to many of us and I was somewhat reluctantly converted to the JOHNTHOMAS approach to life and tractor ownership. My bank account has changed for sure, but life is so much easier. I truly tried the minimalist approach to tractors/lawn mowers, but just could not make it work.

 

[Ken45101]

BUT....I've got 36+ acres and really could use a tractor, so I'm researching both approaches.

I cannot image mowing 36 acres with a lawn mower. Is it smooth enough? Remember, if you hit something with a lawn (finish) mower, you can do serious ($$$) damage. Unless they are golf course smooth, large areas are usually done with a rough cut mower ("bush hog") behind a tractor.

I occasionally mow the trails through the pastures with the mower, but it's not really a wise thing to do.

 

[jcummins]

I cannot image mowing 36 acres with a lawn mower. Is it smooth enough? Remember, if you hit something with a lawn (finish) mower, you can do serious ($$$) damage. Unless they are golf course smooth, large areas are usually done with a rough cut mower ("bush hog") behind a tractor.

I occasionally mow the trails through the pastures with the mower, but it's not really a wise thing to do.

Yes, I would not attempt to mow all of that with the F series...to rough, it is brush hog work. The former owner owns property all around me, and we have an agreement where he is mowing off the pasture areas I have. But at some point that is going to come to an end. I would like to take over the dam areas, and it appears from people like JOHNTHOMAS....the F series can do that. IF the former owner would stop mowing the pasture area, I'd have a neighbor cut it for hay. Then...I'd have edge work.

Kind of caught in that area that I need both, but can't afford it.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

A situation all too familiar to many of us and I was somewhat reluctantly converted to the JOHNTHOMAS approach to life and tractor ownership. My bank account has changed for sure, but life is so much easier. I truly tried the minimalist approach to tractors/lawn mowers, but just could not make it work.

SOME TIMES IN LIFE WE HAVE TO MAKE CHOICES. Money or Stuff/Tractors. Money can be hidden in small places and a tractor can't. A tractor can mow, plow a field, lift heavy stuff, be ridden for fun or work, can blow snow, throw grass, pull a tiller while making the tiller till, can move hay after cutting and bailing it and money can't. Money can draw 1/2% to 1% interest now while a tractor can't. Money can pay a Dr to treat injurys that maybe could have been prevented with a tractor. A tractor can dig a hole to bury you in while money can be used to pay someone else with a tractor to dig a hole to bury you in. Money can be left to the Children and Grand children so they can buy a tractor or a wild week of fun and entertainment. A tractor can be left to a Child or Grandchild and it may take them longer to sell it to get the money to have a wild celebration or they may actually keep the tractor.
Buying candy and eating it is gone money never to be seen again. Money for a tractor is still there years later. Maybe the same amount, possibly more (depends on inflation/maintenance and selling ability) and maybe some what less but usually not a great amount less. Lots of people here tell of using a tractor for years and selling them for as much or sometimes more than they paid for them. Tracors ain't like candy or bread. They last while being used for work and still retain value.
So, money or tractor? You know my choice.:cool2:
Actually for me it's not even money I have but future money that's going to come to me monthly due to years of working and paying SS and State Retirement that was promised to be returned to me in installments on a monthly basis when I got old and I have and I'm sending it back out monthly to help sustain the economy. :laughing:

 

[RedNeckGeek]

I was mowing the property here just yesterday with a Kubota L3240 pulling a 60" Brush Hog. I have a little tilt meter on the dash that, while not being super accurate, at least gives me some idea of how much side hill I'm dealing with. In my experience with this tractor (which always wears an L724 FEL and 4-in-1 bucket), about 20 degrees is my max comfort limit. One of my dump piles requires me to go up, then sideways, then down hill to it, usually with a bucket of rocks. I keep the bucket just skimming the ground and almost every time as the tractor starts going directly across the slope, the uphill rear wheel will lift. The only thing stopping it is the FEL bucket hitting the ground, and the first time it happened I hit the float control to slam that thing down as fast as I could. Now that I'm a bit more used to it I just let the bucket drag while I slowly execute the uphill/across hill/down hill u-turn. The wheel still comes up a little, but the bucket stops the tractor from turning turtle until I can get it pointed down hill again. The little meter registers a bit over 20 degrees when that rear wheel gets light.

With respect to mowing, I can't imagine not having that FEL on the front to use as a crutch when side hilling. That said, I much prefer to saw up and down the hill, rear wheels uphill, when mowing the really steep stuff. Around here that means enough slope to spin the tires in 4WD even when I'm trying not to. At those angles (probably well over 25 degrees) the tractor won't tolerate much departure from straight up and down the hill without getting tippy. And as others have said, if a wheel hits a hole or a bump while it's already leaned over, you better have your ROPS up and your seat belt tight. No way I could side hill the tractor at those angles, and I wouldn't even want to try.

 

[Cougsfan]

I have 2 tractors, An old Ferguson TO35 (with liquid filled tires), and a much newer Yanmar FX245D 4wd (with a FEL). I can tell you there is no comparison between the two when mowing on side hills. The Ferguson wins hands down. Side hills that terrify me while on the Yanmar are not even a concern with the Furgeson.
I also have two bush hogs, One mounts directly behind the tractor and one is biased of to one side. They too are as different as night and day on a side hill. The biased one is extremely stable when mowing with the bias on the downhill side, and scary if the bias is on the uphill side.
The speed of travel is also a big factor. The slower you go, the safer it is. There are also other driving techniques that can help you (i.e turn down hill immediately if you feel a slight lift off the ground of the up hill wheels). Mowing downhill is definitely the safest.
So, in my humble opinion, mowing roll over safety is hugely based on the individual equipment used, and even more so, on the drive's common sense to recognize the limits.

 

[Cougsfan]

I have 2 tractors, An old Ferguson TO35 (with liquid filled tires), and a much newer Yanmar FX245D 4wd (with a FEL). I can tell you there is no comparison between the two when mowing on side hills. The Ferguson wins hands down. Side hills that terrify me while on the Yanmar are not even a concern with the Furgeson.
I also have two bush hogs, One mounts directly behind the tractor and one is biased of to one side. They too are as different as night and day on a side hill. The biased one is extremely stable when mowing with the bias on the downhill side, and scary if the bias is on the uphill side.
The speed of travel is also a big factor. The slower you go, the safer it is. There are also other driving techniques that can help you (i.e turn down hill immediately if you feel a slight lift off the ground of the up hill wheels). Mowing downhill is definitely the safest.
So, in my humble opinion, mowing roll over safety is hugely based on the individual equipment used, and even more so, on the drive's common sense to recognize the limits.