Mowing Mx6 question

[Cperk]

My mx6 hog just broke a bolt. Really the third time I’ve ever used it. I was wondering if it was not put together right from day one as the hog would sometimes bounce up after going over a dip like something was binding. The bolt that broke was through the slot on the third arm attachment. You can see where the other bolt and bushing had been rubbing on the top of the slotted piece. What do y’all think? I always level the hog before using, then took up all the slack in the slot except for maybe an inch.

 

[Cperk]

More pics

 

[cglaser104]

That bracket set is meant to pop upward if the ground behind you is taller than the plane of the tractor and should be comfortably loose while the mower is on the ground. The other bolt&bushing is there to make sure it always articulates upwards. Assuming you haven't adjusted your top-link/quick hitch looks rolled too far forward and would cause that broken arm to grab/pivot on those 2 bolts until something snaps. Your lift height is probably extremely high when not mowing but when in use it's probably enduring a ton of weight and stress while the tractor pivots and applies a lot of force and weight onto that break point. That said...bolts are far easier and cheaper to replace than torn/destroyed brackets.

 

[atsah]

Ya the hitch looks way to far forward as well.. Now that I look at it, cglaser104 has it right..

 

[Cperk]

The instructions say to level the skids then remove all slack on the third arm? Just what I did. If the hitch is too far forward at the top then that would mean less stress when say the back tractor tires went in a wash and the rear tire of the hog isn’t taking all that weight of the tractor.

 

[Cperk]

The angle is in a little at the top but not as much as the first pictures made it look. The top deck is sloped from back to front, may be why it looks in so much on the third arm

 

[Cperk]

Thinking about putting one bolt and bushing back in it a letting her eat. I think that will let the mechanism get turned the wrong way but I want to try it

 

[cglaser104]

Thinking about putting one bolt and bushing back in it a letting her eat.View attachment 617596

Just check that if it slid low that it wouldn't hit the PTO shaft while following the ground. Other than that it should function the same with the rear wheel bearing the weight.

 

[Cperk]

Just check that if it slid low that it wouldn't hit the PTO shaft while following the ground. Other than that it should function the same with the rear wheel bearing the weight.

Gets awful close to pto shaft when it goes backwards. Put 2 bolts back in and we’ll see. Guess I need to keep an extra bushing and bolt in case of another break.

 

[Zebrafive]

A lot of guys mow without connecting the top link or substituting a chain. They let the tail wheel support the rear and the 3pt the front. You only need the top link to lift the complete mower off the ground.

 

[Kioti Dave]

A lot of guys mow without connecting the top link or substituting a chain. They let the tail wheel support the rear and the 3pt the front. You only need the top link to lift the complete mower off the ground.

I agree. Mowing has been much smoother once I stopped hooking up top link. I am actually looking at purchasing the MX6 and would probably remove everything associated with the top link.

 

[Cperk]

I can’t really remove the center link because of the following.
1- I have a bunch of stumps. Our land was mulched so some of the stumps are sticking up due to erosion. So I have to raise the whole hog up.
2- backing up to a pond to hang the hog over to cut next to the water. Slopes are pretty steep so going alongside or parallel to the water is out of the question.
3- hanging over banks along the roadside.

If I had nice pasture land I would remove it in a heartbeat. I just wish it more travel in the slot for the rear of the hog to come up. I’m constantly raising/lowering due to the contour of the land. More travel would be better. I might can get a piece made with a longer slot to do what I need to do.

 

[countrybumpkin]

You could always try a chain instead of the top link. It could be made longer than the top link yet short enough to let you lift the cutter up when you back over the pond.

 

[Zebrafive]

Or get a hydraulic top link and set it to float until you need to lock in position to lift for stump, etc.

 

[beenthere]

I've found the hydraulic top link (invaluable addition I might add) along with chains in place of the solid supports works real well. Leave enough slack in the chains for the cutter to ride on the tail wheel but lift 3 ph and shorten the top link in combo clears most obstructions and is good for road travel.
Pic before addition of hyd top link.

 

[Cperk]

I've found the hydraulic top link (invaluable addition I might add) along with chains in place of the solid supports works real well. Leave enough slack in the chains for the cutter to ride on the tail wheel but lift 3 ph and shorten the top link in combo clears most obstructions and is good for road travel.
Pic before addition of hyd top link.

Thanks

 

[ovrszd]

I would also suggest a Grade 8 bolt. It appears to me the bolt simply can't stand the forces exerted. Probably a soft bolt.