MMagis
Veteran Member
I just meant the angle of the PHD compared to the ground/tractor doesn't look bad.
My 12" rankin auger sucks!!!
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I just meant the angle of the PHD compared to the ground/tractor doesn't look bad.
zoltanthegypsy
Gold Member
I hesitate to stick my beak in here since I've only used an auger a couple of times. The last time I had a guy with a green tractor (trying to) dig post holes for me. Total fail.
He had been digging in rocks recently and had bent the tips of the auger blades so badly they were almost vertical. No way they could dig. I got out a 24" crescent wrench (always use the right tool for the job!) and bent the fool things so their slope was about the same as the rest of the auger. Then it worked fine.
I can't see well enough from the video to tell if those tips are at a decent angle or too close to vertical to "bite". Sorry if I'm way off base here.
Z.
He had been digging in rocks recently and had bent the tips of the auger blades so badly they were almost vertical. No way they could dig. I got out a 24" crescent wrench (always use the right tool for the job!) and bent the fool things so their slope was about the same as the rest of the auger. Then it worked fine.
I can't see well enough from the video to tell if those tips are at a decent angle or too close to vertical to "bite". Sorry if I'm way off base here.
Z.
Chilly807
Elite Member
Depending on how much moisture there is in the soil, you may have to wait until the ground softens up a bit. We drilled some holes here last summer that took maybe 5 min per hole, even 4 feet down it was just powder.
If not, there's probably a hydraulic down pressure kit available for that PHD, you did get rear hydraulic remotes, I think?
Another option is to dig down a foot or so by hand, then try the PHD. I've had mine clog up the teeth with sod and grass and it simply spun until the grass wore away, then dug like a cut dog.
You might try sharpening the teeth a little, if the grinder will cut them. Those look like they're meant for rocky soil.
Sean
If not, there's probably a hydraulic down pressure kit available for that PHD, you did get rear hydraulic remotes, I think?
Another option is to dig down a foot or so by hand, then try the PHD. I've had mine clog up the teeth with sod and grass and it simply spun until the grass wore away, then dug like a cut dog.
You might try sharpening the teeth a little, if the grinder will cut them. Those look like they're meant for rocky soil.
Sean
beppington
Elite Member
His look to me like they're at an angle that would allow them to push any dirt they run into, but not actually dig the auger into the dirt.
hawkeye08
Elite Member
I had better luck digging when I ran the rpms slow. The center point will never twist in and pull the auger down if it is running fast, it will just drill a hole rather than screw in.
beppington
Elite Member
That's something that hadn't dawned on me; I also run the auger pretty slow. I usually have my RPM set between 1,500-1,600. With my tractor's "rated" engine speed of 2,700 RPM, I think that equates to a PTO speed of 300 - 320 ... a little more than half of full 540 speed.
Verticaltrx
Veteran Member
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Your soil is probably harder than you think. You need either a really heavy/heavy-duty digger ($2000+) and a good ($300-500 auger bit) or a hydraulic downforce kit. This time of year most soil is so hard if everything on the auger isn't perfect it wont dig. The downforce kit plugs into a rear remote valve and provides several hundred pounds of force. They generally cost about $500 for most augers. It will force even a crappy auger bit to dig in all but the worst ground.
As for the auger bit itself, the one you have looks decent, maybe the teeth are a little too steep of an angle. If you get a new one look for one with a 'fish-tail' point instead of the screw type. They actually pull a little better and last longer. Make sure the teeth are at angle that looks right, should be 45* or flatter.
Lastly, you're running the auger way too fast. You should have the tractor just above idle for best performance.
As for the auger bit itself, the one you have looks decent, maybe the teeth are a little too steep of an angle. If you get a new one look for one with a 'fish-tail' point instead of the screw type. They actually pull a little better and last longer. Make sure the teeth are at angle that looks right, should be 45* or flatter.
Lastly, you're running the auger way too fast. You should have the tractor just above idle for best performance.
hill
Gold Member
I borrowed one of those short fat auger bits once but it was a 15" or 16"'er.
Never got it to bite and it looked just like the video - skating on the surface. The only good start I got was with pretty slow RPM and my 240 lbs helping, but as soon as the middle teeth started to bite it'd stall the tractor.
I ended up returning it to my guy and thinking I just didn't have enough tractor for it. 30 hp B7800 - drills good with my 4 foot long 6" bit.
I thought your video showed the bit turning too fast too and was gonna' suggest slowing it to about 150 rpm but see that you've tried a range of speed with same result. (I've got a little lightbeam tachometer that lets me stick a piece of relective tape on anything that turns and read how fast it's going.)
Your 3pt valve is wide open, right, so the digger weight won't be hydraulically damped or slowed down when lowering? Just a last thought - trying to help.
Never got it to bite and it looked just like the video - skating on the surface. The only good start I got was with pretty slow RPM and my 240 lbs helping, but as soon as the middle teeth started to bite it'd stall the tractor.
I ended up returning it to my guy and thinking I just didn't have enough tractor for it. 30 hp B7800 - drills good with my 4 foot long 6" bit.
I thought your video showed the bit turning too fast too and was gonna' suggest slowing it to about 150 rpm but see that you've tried a range of speed with same result. (I've got a little lightbeam tachometer that lets me stick a piece of relective tape on anything that turns and read how fast it's going.)
Your 3pt valve is wide open, right, so the digger weight won't be hydraulically damped or slowed down when lowering? Just a last thought - trying to help.
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Alien
Elite Member
I had exactly the same problem. My auger has the same teeth as yours. How did I fix it? It didn't need to be fixed.
If you are digging grass it blocks between the teeth and I carry a little crowbar to punch the compacted dirt from between the teeth. I have to do this a couple of times depending on how deep the grass roots are. Once it is through this it works really well. I didn't think grass would worry it but it does. Also fine tree roots can cause the same problem.
Rock is my main problem here when I dig holes for posts. I may have to invest in the tungsten blades as the ordinary ones only last a few holes.
Doug
If you are digging grass it blocks between the teeth and I carry a little crowbar to punch the compacted dirt from between the teeth. I have to do this a couple of times depending on how deep the grass roots are. Once it is through this it works really well. I didn't think grass would worry it but it does. Also fine tree roots can cause the same problem.
Rock is my main problem here when I dig holes for posts. I may have to invest in the tungsten blades as the ordinary ones only last a few holes.
Doug
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