My 4520r has no bolt holes for wheel weights?

[Cougsfan]

I would agree. Filling the front tires causes more grief than it helps if the tire has problems.

 

[ericm979]

Anti freeze is going to cause a toxic mess if there's a tire puncture. Rimguard would only be a mess.

 

[North to Alaska]

Yes, it will be easier to fix a punctured front tire if it isn’t loaded.
Thought about that.
Reasons for filling them are:
1) when pushing snow with the bucket, it doesn’t take much down pressure from the FEL to raise the front tires and I start losing traction and momentum.
2) stability while hauling large trees and removing stumps
3) and just plain old extra traction.

But the front tires are the most likely to be punctured....and that weighs on me.

 

[Branson Bob]

Yes, it will be easier to fix a punctured front tire if it isn稚 loaded.
Thought about that.
Reasons for filling them are:
1) when pushing snow with the bucket, it doesn稚 take much down pressure from the FEL to raise the front tires and I start losing traction and momentum.
2) stability while hauling large trees and removing stumps
3) and just plain old extra traction.

But the front tires are the most likely to be punctured....and that weighs on me.

I think a cost/benefit would advise against filling them. Filling them would add stress to 1) the front axle, 2) the front drivetrain, and 3) the steering linkage.

That's in addition to what we've already discussed with a puncture scenario.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

My thoughts would be that front (euro-style) chains would be more helpful for traction than filled front tires (for snow work). Also some guys are reporting very good results from just cutting siping slots in their tire treads. There is a couple of threads on TBN about it. I haven't tried that, but it looks promising. I'm fortunate where I have currently moved to (this summer) is *very* flat ground, so no inclines or slopes for me of any kind. That helps my situation as I'm not trying to push snow up a hill, or back up on a hill after shoving snow down into a ditch anymore.

For just pushing snow in a driveway or parking area, I've found that keeping the FEL in float and just alternating the bucket angle from either "flat" or "downwards" when I need more downward cutting force seems to take care of most of my snow work. For an area (mine) that gets cleared regularly, just the weight of the FEL sitting on the bucket is usually enough down force. This keeps my traction weight on the front tires most of the time. The ultimate would be chains all the way around, but so far I haven't really needed them for myself. I only do my own place, and sporadically do a few friends/neighbors when needed occasionally. If I was running lots of snow jobs, and unable to predict the circumstances I'd encounter, then I would already be chained up on all 4 tires.

The benefit of filled rear tires will be a vast improvement when you get them done. Normally with alternating between using the diff lock, and especially with using the turning brakes, you'd be surprised on how much you can get done. I use my turning brakes all winter long, and wouldn't want a CUT without them after using mine for even the first winter. When you start to feel your front end lose turning traction, just use the alternate side turning brake pedal to swing you right back where you want the front end to go. I feel sorry for folks with no diff lock and no turning brakes.

 

[North to Alaska]

I think a cost/benefit would advise against filling them. Filling them would add stress to 1) the front axle, 2) the front drivetrain, and 3) the steering linkage.

That's in addition to what we've already discussed with a puncture scenario.

Think you are right

 

[North to Alaska]

My thoughts would be that front (euro-style) chains would be more helpful for traction than filled front tires (for snow work). Also some guys are reporting very good results from just cutting siping slots in their tire treads. There is a couple of threads on TBN about it. I haven't tried that, but it looks promising. I'm fortunate where I have currently moved to (this summer) is *very* flat ground, so no inclines or slopes for me of any kind. That helps my situation as I'm not trying to push snow up a hill, or back up on a hill after shoving snow down into a ditch anymore.


For just pushing snow in a driveway or parking area, I've found that keeping the FEL in float and just alternating the bucket angle from either "flat" or "downwards" when I need more downward cutting force seems to take care of most of my snow work. For an area (mine) that gets cleared regularly, just the weight of the FEL sitting on the bucket is usually enough down force. This keeps my traction weight on the front tires most of the time. The ultimate would be chains all the way around, but so far I haven't really needed them for myself. I only do my own place, and sporadically do a few friends/neighbors when needed occasionally. If I was running lots of snow jobs, and unable to predict the circumstances I'd encounter, then I would already be chained up on all 4 tires.

The benefit of filled rear tires will be a vast improvement when you get them done. Normally with alternating between using the diff lock, and especially with using the turning brakes, you'd be surprised on how much you can get done. I use my turning brakes all winter long, and wouldn't want a CUT without them after using mine for even the first winter. When you start to feel your front end lose turning traction, just use the alternate side turning brake pedal to swing you right back where you want the front end to go. I feel sorry for folks with no diff lock and no turning brakes.

Turning brakes....doh:duh:

We’ve had over two feet of snow so far
Expect another ten feet before the winter is over
I will try the float idea as well as I alter the bucket angle.

Trying out roofing screws right now in the tires. If they don’t hold, I will try the grip stud brand ice screws.
Only had a few in the back tires and can tell the difference.
No clearance for chains.

By the way, it was -23 this morning!
Not even starting the tractor on days like today till the fluids get changed.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

We are unseasonably warm so far (it's in the +50's for highs, and will be all week). No snow on the ground, and none in the forecast.

Highs in the low 50's, lows in the +20's...

I'm sure winter will get here, but it's taking it's sweet time this year.

Tractor is ready, but I don't have it plugged in (too warm). I did go ahead and treat the fuel anyway, won't hurt anything. Got new tires on the walk behind blower, and it's sitting in the heated garage, all gassed up and ready to go.

 

[North to Alaska]

Was able to get about 45 gallons of used antifreeze in each tire a couple of days ago. Still have room for about 15 gallons more in each but I’ll wait till spring to do finish it up. Night a day difference. That is around 850 lbs of weight....almost free.
I really don’t recommend using the drill pumps. They just don’t seem to have the power and quality. Tried two of them and then I decided to just get an electric transfer pump.

Tested out the new weight by pulling a 30 foot spruce log out from a large pile of logs. Logs tend to get crossed over on each other and plus the snow and ice packed on them make it difficult to get them out. Usually just used chains to pull them out. This time, I was able to get it with the grapple. Broke off about 6 feet from the end of the log in doing so. Would not have even budged the log prior to filling the tires.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Yes, weight is king for traction. Now you will have to be more particular on "where" you connect to on your tractor for pulling and tugging on things.

I never attach a chain to my FEL frame or bucket if I have to pull something heavy or hard. It's always either the frame in front, or the draw bar (clevis hitch) in back.

Something small, light or easy, sure I'll chain that to one of my bucket hooks, no problem.