generally conversions
Thanks, I wasn't aware of this website. I'm going to read up on what it takes to sell on there.
I'm running out of options on the safe, so it's becoming more likely that I'm going to use the grinder and cut a hole in the door.
It's very easy.
Set up an account, it's free. Anything you sell, gunbroker will take a small percentage as a fee. The higher the presumed value of the gun, easier it is to sell to a "national audience" vs trying to sell local, where guys always try to get something for next to nothing because they think you need the money or they're looking for a steel per a face to face sale.
Please note, you always want to mention that the firearm will ship from your FFL to their FFL, and include FFL fee and shipping price in the sell price.
I have a FFL I deal with that charges me $20 for the FFL transfer (to register the serial number) and like $50 for shipping which includes like $500 for insurance. The biggest pain in the butt is dealing with a FFL you don't know IMO going this route. I'll generally add $120 to my bottom dollar bid price.
On my FIL's old marlin lever, I screwed up because I put a buy price at a more than reasonable price (since the gun was "professionally appraised" at like $950), gun had a bidding war on it, and the guy bought it at my "buy price" (now, I think I could have sold the gun for even a lot more than my buy price).
The buyer (generally out of state) will have to give you their FFL info to where your FFL is going to ship to.
Out of state sales can only be done between FFL's who act as a 3rd party. This way, everything is legal.
Generally speaking, higher end, higher dollar guns sell better from my own experience other than anything you can walk into to a shop and buy for $700.
That said, if a gun is normally bought for $700, you can sell it cheaper if you wish, just don't forget gunbrokers cut and the FFL fee and shipping.