My Diesel Storage and Transfer Set-up

[bialecki]

Why not forget the 5 gallon cans and get home deliver and let them fill the caddy?
That's what I plan on doing when I get my 30 gallon drum set up!

I read on this form that Home Heating Oil is the same as #2 diesel. If that is true I have a 1,000 gallon tank for home heating, I can always pump from that tank. Plus the cost of home heating oil is about 50 cents per gallon cheaper here in CT than Diesel at the pump. We are running about $3.70 per gallon while regular gasoline is $3.17 per gallon. Unreal.

 

[LBrown59]

1*I read on this form that Home Heating Oil is the same as #2 diesel.
2*If that is true I have a 1,000 gallon tank for home heating,
3*I can always pump from that tank.

1*Diesel fuel home heating oil and fuel oil are all the same thing here.
2*I can't beleive you are fooling around with a 30 gallon caddy when you are setting there with 1000 gallons of diesel fuel setting in that tank.
3*You could have been using from that tank all along and saved the $500 you tied up in that caddy.$500 would have paid for around 150 gallons of fuel.
Throw that caddy away and start using from the tank ; no on second thought just give me the caddy.

 

[tlbuser]

Why not forget the 5 gallon cans and get home deliver and let them fill the caddy?
That's what I plan on doing when I get my 30 gallon drum set up!

Might want to double check prices first. All of the local services have at least 150 gal. minimum or else they charge an extra delivery fee.

 

[bialecki]

Might want to double check prices first. All of the local services have at least 150 gal. minimum or else they charge an extra delivery fee.

I just topped off my home heating oil tank at $3.20/gal. Before that I filled it back in August for $2.50/ gallon. I can't believe its the same fuel, wow. When I changed the nozzles back in the Fall on the hot water heater and the furnace I purged the pumps and l noticed the viscosity was the same as my diesel fuel for the tractor. Where can I verify this?

Thanks

 

[LBrown59]

1*Might want to double check prices first.
*All of the local services have at least 150 gal. minimum or else they charge an extra delivery fee.

1*I already have with all 3 of my suppliers.
~ ~ ~ * In my case this only applies if they have to make a delivery on a date other than their regular secluded delivery date or dates.
They will top of my tank or drum if they are already delivering in the area.
There is no extra charge and no minimum gallon requirement for that.
Even if there was an extra delivery charge you're still ahead having offload non taxed delivered if the total cost per gallon comes out less than the taxed on road stuff.
Having fuel delivered is also more convenient and time saving than running after it all the time.
Also with the on road not only do you pay tax but you also have the expense of driving to and from the place where you get it.

 

[LBrown59]

Where can I verify this?

Thanks

I simply discussed it with my 3 fuel suppliers.

 

[tlbuser]

I just topped off my home heating oil tank at $3.20/gal. Before that I filled it back in August for $2.50/ gallon. I can't believe its the same fuel, wow. When I changed the nozzles back in the Fall on the hot water heater and the furnace I purged the pumps and l noticed the viscosity was the same as my diesel fuel for the tractor. Where can I verify this?

Thanks

Your local fuel distributor knows best.
Let's see. Somewhere in the owners manual for the tractor it has a blurb about acceptable fuel. The most common being #2 diesel fuel oil (on or off-road) Your home heating oil is usually #2 (diesel) fuel oil. Colder climates get #1 fuel oils. LSD is Low Sulphur Diesel, ULSD is Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel.
#2 diesel does not get red-dye added, and is now getting more sulphur (lubricant) removed. #2 diesel also has more additives to make it burn "cleaner" and a lower ash content. Supposedly, by removing more of the sulphur, it is making it more environmentally safe (and produce less smoke)
#2 fuel oil can have a higher ash count, more sulphur and burn "dirtier". Part of this helps explain why your "oil burner" needs to have the flue and firebox cleaned on a regular basis.
Your tractor will happily use any of the above mentioned fuel oils and would accept JP-4, JP-5 or JP-8. If using a ULSD in an older tractor, it would be wise to use a lubricant additive. If not using the tractor regularly, keeping the tank topped off (less area for condensation to form) and adding Sta-bil doesn't hurt either.

Of course, you could just run it on peanut oil (with a couple additives). Or you could go the french fry route, WVO, waste vegetable oil but you gotta strain and triple filter it and then add stuff to it.

Bottom line - use whatever you feel comfortable with and fits your pocketbook best. None of it will make your tractor "blow up".


Did you have someone determine the lowest nozzle size useable or have you been replacing it with the same size the oil co. put in?
Typically, the oil co. service guys use the largest size so you'll burn more oil

 

[tlbuser]

1*I already have with all 3 of my suppliers.
~ ~ ~ * In my case this only applies if they have to make a delivery on a date other than their regular secluded delivery date or dates.
They will top of my tank or drum if they are already delivering in the area.
There is no extra charge and no minimum gallon requirement for that.

Cool. Hope it works out better for you.

 

[Barneyhunts]

I purchased this 30 gallon diesel caddy from Northerntool.com and added their 12 volt 5 gallon/ minute pump. With a little plumbing and a couple of three-quarter inch ball valves I can now transfer diesel from my 5 gallon containers into the caddy for filling or directly into the tractor. This setup eliminates the need to lift the 5 gallon 35 pound containers chest high and try to hold the container while filling the caddy or the Kubota. The wheels on the caddy makes it portable enough to move about within my garage or driveway for easy transfer to the tractor. I did add a 14 foot fuel line with a manual nozzle. The nozzle is convenient when filling my B7800 due to the cross member/ brace that Kubota added for the FEL that crosses right over the fuel cap of the tractor. Attached are a few photos showing the caddy and a close-up of the plumbing. I used the yellow Tygon line to transfer the fuel from the 5 gallon containers to the caddy and the black line with the nozzle from the caddy to the Kubota.

Neat! All these benefits +++ you don't have to deal with the ventless containers!

 

[LBrown59]

Fuel here is called 3 different things Home hearing oil, diesel or fuel oil ~~ even though it's all the same stuff.
Number 2 is not a type or grade of fuel.
All 1 or 2 does is designate if the fuel is for use in cold or warm temperatures.
On road and off road aren't two different things here either.
Off road is on road dyed red without tax.
On road is on road without dye but is taxed.
*********
I learned this from talking to my 3 local distributors.
That's the way it works in these parts.
Keep in mind YMMV in your area.

Your local fuel distributor knows best.
Let's see. Somewhere in the owners manual for the tractor it has a blurb about acceptable fuel. The most common being #2 diesel fuel oil (on or off-road) Your home heating oil is usually #2 (diesel) fuel oil. Colder climates get #1 fuel oils. LSD is Low Sulphur Diesel, ULSD is Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel.
#2 diesel does not get red-dye added, and is now getting more sulphur (lubricant) removed. #2 diesel also has more additives to make it burn "cleaner" and a lower ash content. Supposedly, by removing more of the sulphur, it is making it more environmentally safe (and produce less smoke)
#2 fuel oil can have a higher ash count, more sulphur and burn "dirtier". Part of this helps explain why your "oil burner" needs to have the flue and firebox cleaned on a regular basis.
Your tractor will happily use any of the above mentioned fuel oils and would accept JP-4, JP-5 or JP-8. If using a ULSD in an older tractor, it would be wise to use a lubricant additive. If not using the tractor regularly, keeping the tank topped off (less area for condensation to form) and adding Sta-bil doesn't hurt either.

Of course, you could just run it on peanut oil (with a couple additives). Or you could go the french fry route, WVO, waste vegetable oil but you gotta strain and triple filter it and then add stuff to it.

Bottom line - use whatever you feel comfortable with and fits your pocketbook best. None of it will make your tractor "blow up".


Did you have someone determine the lowest nozzle size useable or have you been replacing it with the same size the oil co. put in?
Typically, the oil co. service guys use the largest size so you'll burn more oil