My father has fallen and can't get up

[LouNY]

Here is some floor heating items, they have installation instructions
https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=electric floor heat

 

[2manyrocks]

Stay safe. Wouldn't be good for you to get over tired and have an accident that sets you and the entire situation backwards.

You could use a sliding barn door on the accessible outer wall of the bath instead of pocket doors that would make the framing easier and avoid having the pocket door hardware buried in the wall. However, pocket doors would preserve the free wall space in the rooms if you need that space for furniture placement, etc.

When framing, I've read the suggestion of using 3/4 plywood as sheating on the interior studs to make it easier to install handrails at the finish stage. However, I tend to think the better plan would be to use 2x8 blocking so you have an extra wide blocking surface.

 

[newbury]

Here is some floor heating items, they have installation instructions
https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=electric floor heat

And I've been dealing with Supply House for about a decade, always prompt, correct and quick shipments. Usually the best price I could find on the web or local. I usually let my order build to above the minimum for free shipping.

 

[fatjay]

Here is some floor heating items, they have installation instructions
https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=electric floor heat

Thank you for that. What components would I need? Just the spool of wire and a thermostat? Is it that simple?

 

[m7040]

I don't want to do the pex in concrete for hot water heat, it's a bit more complicated than I want to deal with. I've seen wire systems that are a bit easier. I hear it doesn't have as much heating capacity but I don't need as much heating capacity as say a cold building.

Yes, insulation will be under the concrete as well.

I went through something similar when wife broke her ankle and had on top of that a bad knee. She went into nursing home for 6 weeks while I was setting up a bathroom downstairs in one of the rooms. Installed a large shower with low sills for access and with room for support chair to transfer from wheel chair to shower and installed counter at hight that works for sitting down access from wheelchair. Installed a number of hand supports in strategic locations. Also installed electric heater in the ceiling on a timer to boost up in the mornings. Works really well and is only on for short period of time. The pluming was tied together in the basement so no digging involved.
She now has her knee replacement behind her and she is back to walking again but she likes her downstairs living and don't feel safe on stairs any more.

 

[EddieWalker]

Sorry to hear about your dad. I'm praying for a quick and easy recovery.

I do quite a few ADA showers in the remodels that I do for clients. From what you have said, it sounds like you have a solid plan. Some of my clients what to use chairs that they can remove, others want something built into the shower. Just be sure to block the framing for grab bars everywhere. I've put them vertical on either side of the shower handle, so they are right in front, and I've put them horizontal all the way around the shower. I would buy them now, so you know where to put your blocking when you are framing. I found the best options on Amazon, but the box stores have plenty to chose from. Some people are particular on how thick they are, so be sure to have them grip it before you install it.

Plan on two shower valves. One for the regular shower head and the other for the flexible shower head. A few people have done the combo units, but nobody likes them. Be sure to put the valve and handles where they can be reached without having to get wet.

There is no reason for a glass door on a walk in, ADA shower. It's just something extra to clean that costs a bunch of money.

Here are a few pictures of a bathroom that I finished last week. It had a bathtub in it that she was afraid to use. She is elderly and she was afraid of tripping over the tub, so she used the hall bathroom instead of this one. I'm not a fan of the shower head, but it's what she wanted. Same thing with the 12x24 fake marble wall tile. It's all the fashion right now, so I'm doing a lot of it, or white subway. Seems that's what everyone wants right now. The inside of the shower is 3 1/2 inches by 7 feet. In my opinion, this is just about the perfect size for a shower. Most of my clients want the little corner seat on the other side, farther away from the shower head. It's where the ladies put their feet when shaving. My wife uses ours to store towels.




Here is a built in seat that they wanted because of knee surgeries. They wanted two valves for the rain head, and then the hand held shower.




This client wanted the handle close to the door, but the shower was longer where the shower head is. With PEX, it's super easy to put the shower head anywhere.




This client has a collection of at least 20 different shower heads. He's sort of crazy on finding the right one!!! He also wanted lots of options while taking a shower.

 

[LouNY]

Thank you for that. What components would I need? Just the spool of wire and a thermostat? Is it that simple?

Almost, most systems use a slightly special thermostat and a sensor embedded in the floor.
Some systems will recommend a spare sensor be embedded or the sensor may be inserted in a sleeve that exits the floor pour
so it can be replaced if it fails. Often a relay is required between the T-stat and the heater for the current being controled. Some will use a bit of liquid tite or PVC conduit for the power wires leaving the grid.

 

[Hilbilly]

Hope your father heals quickly.

You are an excellent son and I am sure your father is very proud of you, as he should be. You should also be proud of yourself for stepping up to take on such a large project to help out your parents. Especially given your other commitments in life.

 

[civilian]

Here is a link to a flooring backer system for tile. I have been on jobs where ths was done and I have a similar brand on my bathroom and entry tile areas. Works great. Also have a walkin shower with no treshold and 36" door ways. Was able to learn from elders when we built our retirement home 4 years ago. Plan on going out in wood boxes, or at least covered gurney. Jon

Why should I use Schluter®-DITRA in my tile installation? | Schluter

Ceramic and stone tiles are durable, easy to maintain, and hygienic, representing the ideal surface coverings. However…

www.schluter.com

 

[civilian]

Found our paperwork for the entry way heated tile floor.

 

[civilian]

Ours and Schluter's use a plastic grid work for an under layment that holds the wire in place. A drawing was submitted to WarmlyYours for them to layout the wire path. Everything came as a package deal. Not sure on Schluter's. Helped install both, but never involved with the order process with Schluter's. Jon

edit, ours is powered by a 220v circuit.

 

[fatjay]

Picked up a ton of stone to level things to insualate the floor and set plumbing in. Broke through the basement wall to run drain lines, cut, glue'd, measured. Occasionally in that order. Tomorrow I'll hit the steel shop for rebar and clean up to get ready to pour. Weather's taking a nose dive after today so that'll be fun.

 

[QRTRHRS]

I have not seen any talk in your thread about an ADA compliant toilet. With knee replacement coming up for me, I am looking to replace the one in our master. I had already put in one that is about 17 1/2 inches high for my wife but that one is still too short for me so I did a search on "tallest ADA compliant toilets". Depending on your father's height, you can find one that may work better than others for him. Most of the offerings on the market are more like 16 inches.

Two that popped up for me are Kohler K-25224 Highline which is around 20 inches high if I recall correctly. Available at the big box stores, Amazon for about 439. The other is a Signature Hardware 945956 Brandenton which measures 22 inches. The Signature is a bit more limited to find. Amazon does carry it but I did find it online for a bit less.

Per some of the articles that I was reading, you can find even higher toilets for people that are up in the clouds at like 6 foot 7, etc. Of course at a price.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Slab on grade? No footer? At first I thought you was covering over the outdooor steps, but now I’m guessing it’s just form bracing.

 

[3Ts]

One suggestion is to purchase a high-quality pocket door. Not the flimsy models available at the home improvement stores. My last house had those flimsy models and they were a nightmare.

My new residence has a few pocket doors that are high quality. Difference is night and day. IIRC, shop for models that can handle or support a 200lb door.

This!! The trolley should have 3 or 4 ball bearing wheels and the track should be in a "U" shape like a uni-strut for the wheels to run in. It will be a lot smoother, easier to open & close, and most of all much less prone to problems.

 

[2manyrocks]

Don't know if termites are a concern where you are, but here in Tennessee I would treat the ground while it is still accessible before pouring an area like that.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

If you’re goIng to install floor heat, be sure to put some foam under the floor. Contrary to common thought, heat goes to cold. Warm fluids rise, due to lower density. But, heat goes to cold. If you don’t insulate the floor, you loose a great deal of heat trying to heat the earth.

On ADA toilet height: The height of an ADA toilet should be the same height as the seat on the chair. Makes transfer much easier.

 

[newbury]

On the subject of electric floor heat -
Can anyone (like Eddie) expound on the relative pro's and con's of 240V, 120V and "low" voltage systems (like warmzone)?

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Like all things electric, you have voltage drop as a function of run length. The higher the voltage the better it works over distance.

The amount of heat you generate is directly related to the number of Watts in your System. Low voltage works ok for a 3X5 typical bathroom system. 120 works on medium systems, and the 240 works better on longer systems. There is a limit to how long each can work at.

You have a fairly large system in mind, about at the limit of a single zone 120 system. So, 240 is better for teh size you have in mind. And, since 240 pull power from both buses in your breaker panel it keeps the load on the same on both buses.

You are going to install over a fresh concrete base. All Concrete will crack. Tile directly over concrete will crack with the concrete. So, I highly recommend you install the Kerdi system, because it disjoints the tile from the concrete. Down side to teh Kerri system is it doesn’t come in mats, so you have to install all the wire by hand. Which can take quite a bit of extra time.

 

[chim]

Fatjay, you are one ambitious guy and your posts and projects are very interesting. Although I haven't done any installations like you plan, back in the day I did a number of radiant ceiling heat and snow mat installs. There may be some commonalities.

One of the problems you probably won't have is getting enough heat into the bathroom. When we were doing electric heat in the 70's it seemed there was often not enough space to accommodate the amount of heat needed. For baseboard, we were frequently left with a wall next to the toilet. That was in the splash zone and always a treat to service when it failed. Cable heat in the ceiling was also a challenge to get a long enough cable to heat the room. The cable had to have spacing away from the joists, light fixtures, exhaust fans, heat lamps, etc. There was only so much area left.

Stats for things installed in concrete - a piece of empty pipe was stubbed out and the t-stat capillary / bulb was pushed into it after the pour. That allowed for replacing the stat if it ever failed.

Crossing joints - care needs to be taken wherever the wiring crosses an expansion joint or goes between a floor and a wall. Anywhere two pieces of material can move can damage the wiring.

Voltage - we normally used 240V because of the lower current draw. You still pay for KWH regardless of the voltage used, but the wiring to support the installation can be smaller as the voltage increases.

I've done mat-type and single wire installations. The mats are easier to work with and would especially be so if you can take advantage of the design assistance mentioned in some of the other posts.