My Garage/Shop Heater Install

   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install #101  
There should be a view port to see igniter and ignition taken place. Any flame at all? Bleeding air from 1/8th pressure tap is going to take awhile. Open all doors and purge at flex connector at heater. Do not flip any switches and try again.
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install #102  
"The igniter is also the flame rod"

Not according to the location diagram #15 on page 20 (if I have the right manual) - it shows the ignitor near the bottom of the burner, and the flame sensor near the top. From your description Mark, sounds like you may have ignition but NOT gas, some non-industrial stuff also has pretty funky little spring clips to retain the sensor - if so, the sensor may have moved during shipping.

Normal sequence of firing is spark/gas, circuit watches flame signal for X seconds (typically 10-15), if no flame sense by then, it shuts gas and spark down. If I have the right manual, troubleshooting using the control board leds is on page 42 - Normal sequence on page 24-25, also shows what the led's do.

I can't tell from the diagrams whether it's possible to actually SEE the spark, might have to remove the ignitor and verify 1/8" spark gap. (NOT while it's powered :eek:) All the gas fired stuff I worked on (for 35 years) typically has 10 KV spark transformer, sorta less than pleasant to fondle when it's got power)

If it's not too much fan noise, you can usually HEAR if the spark is on, sounds like a quieter mig arc.

this is the manual I'm looking at BTW -
https://literature.nortekhvac.com/p...y=Reznor&lgt=118596585134cc38e514690032947889

Good luck... Steve
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install
  • Thread Starter
#103  
Checked the flame rollout switch for continuity while unit was off. Unplugged one lead and checked across the switch it was closed. Don't know if it is opening after 16 seconds or is supposed to? Maybe that is a proper test?

IMG_4043.jpg

Also there are two status lights. The green light seems to be working fine. The yellow (flame status) light has never come on.
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install #104  
If I'm looking at the right manual, there's an on/off switch on top of the gas valve (see page 28) - hopefully it's OFF, but that'd be too easy :rolleyes: Nevermind, just saw your pic showing the switch ON...

If your yellow pilot LED has never lit, you either don't have gas or spark (you did take the foam packing out of the air system, right? :D
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install #105  
From the manual it sounds like your flame sensor is a TC; these are normally a Type K, only put out a small millivolt signal. Might wanna follow that red wire down to the board. If it goes into that molex connector, make sure it's fully seated and NOT crimped on the insulation - they supposedly test these before shipping, but I've been "burned" by that before.

Also, when a gas burner lights it usually makes a "whoosh" sound - plus, if you have an infrared temp gun point it at the burner tube about the middle, see if the temp increases while it's trying to light... Steve
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install
  • Thread Starter
#106  
"The igniter is also the flame rod"

Not according to the location diagram #15 on page 20 (if I have the right manual) - it shows the ignitor near the bottom of the burner, and the flame sensor near the top. From your description Mark, sounds like you may have ignition but NOT gas, some non-industrial stuff also has pretty funky little spring clips to retain the sensor - if so, the sensor may have moved during shipping.

Normal sequence of firing is spark/gas, circuit watches flame signal for X seconds (typically 10-15), if no flame sense by then, it shuts gas and spark down. If I have the right manual, troubleshooting using the control board leds is on page 42 - Normal sequence on page 24-25, also shows what the led's do.

I can't tell from the diagrams whether it's possible to actually SEE the spark, might have to remove the ignitor and verify 1/8" spark gap. (NOT while it's powered :eek:) All the gas fired stuff I worked on (for 35 years) typically has 10 KV spark transformer, sorta less than pleasant to fondle when it's got power)

If it's not too much fan noise, you can usually HEAR if the spark is on, sounds like a quieter mig arc.

this is the manual I'm looking at BTW -
https://literature.nortekhvac.com/p...y=Reznor&lgt=118596585134cc38e514690032947889

Good luck... Steve
Steve, I really appreciate you diving in here as well. I am baffled. That manual is very close. Looks like it superseded the one that came with my unit (D300519 rev 03-18). But close enough.

Yes, the flame sensor (rollout) switch is near the top see pic I just posted. The flame rod is just out of sight at the bottom of the photo. I am getting gas and flame. I can't see it directly but I can see the blue glow that is emanating from the box and I get a little heat once the fan comes on to blow the air and gas as part of the shut down. Just will not stay lit! Oh and I hear the igniter clicking (like a sick MIG) for a full 16 seconds.

I can't see the actual arcing because it is buried and there appears no easy way to get access.

I'm stumped at this point.

EDIT: Posted this before your last two posts.
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install #107  
Ok,there are a separate flame rod and igniter and you are getting ignition as you said in previous post. I'm slow. That rollout switch looks like a manual reset by the looks of a red button. That will prevent any ignition at all. That flame rod or sensor is not seeing gas, it has to be in the burner flame. There has to be a window or removable plug to verify this.
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install #108  
Just found the parts manual; flame detector is apparently an actual flame rod - those usually have around 4-500 volts AC on 'em, flame causes them to RECTIFY part of that AC, circuit board looks at that DC component for flame sense.

A - don't touch during operation, your body can't IGNORE the AC part :eek:
/b - they don't work well if ground isn't good - the circuit relies on the small (milliamp) DC current, which won't happen if the flame doesn't "impinge" on that rod to complete the current path.

Parts manual
https://literature.nortekhvac.com/p...y=Reznor&lgt=6550075851cced38e586776995455238

See page 6, item# 8.
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install
  • Thread Starter
#109  
Going back out to the cold shop to inspect the wiring... again! And give it another fire.
 
   / My Garage/Shop Heater Install
  • Thread Starter
#110  
Ok,there are a separate flame rod and igniter and you are getting ignition as you said in previous post. I'm slow. That rollout switch looks like a manual reset by the looks of a red button. That will prevent any ignition at all. That flame rod or sensor is not seeing gas, it has to be in the burner flame. There has to be a window or removable plug to verify this.
Thanks fitter... going back out... the only window I see is on the removable door that gives you a view of the green and yellow 'status' LEDs.
 

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