My Garage/Shop Heater Install
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BukitCase
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Wondering if, in your enthusiasm for cranking up pressure you may have stopped right at the top end of workable pilot. Might be as simple as backing off the pressure JUST A TINY BIT and trying again...
OP
dragoneggs
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Two LEDs Green lLED is working. Steady = system on, no heat demand. Blinking = system on, heat requested.
Yellow LED now not coming on. Means no flame detected.
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dragoneggs
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Going back out to the tank and mess with the pressure this evening before dark.
BukitCase
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By now you probably have a pretty good idea of how far the adjustment needs to go from min to max recommended - if so, probably a quicker way to test (rather than hooking up manometer each time) might be to divide that TOTAL adjustment range into 6 or 8 smaller increments, then go down ONE increment, retry; lather, rinse, repeat. Do NOT go any further than where you remember the lowest setting being.
If you get lucky and it stays lit, I'd go ONE MORE small increment in the same direction and re-try. If all seems good (steady yellow led) I would collect some info with your DMM. (NOT manometer, altho that'd be good to know also) - you STILL should know what DC voltage is on that flame rod when it's actually WORKING, and write that (and pressures) down for future (hopefully more than one day) use.
BTW, too MUCH gas pressure can screw you just as much as too LITTLE, so the scientific method is definitely your friend.
At least you're not trying to do this with NG - it has about one TENTH of the tolerance for flame fuel/air ratio as propane... Steve
If you get lucky and it stays lit, I'd go ONE MORE small increment in the same direction and re-try. If all seems good (steady yellow led) I would collect some info with your DMM. (NOT manometer, altho that'd be good to know also) - you STILL should know what DC voltage is on that flame rod when it's actually WORKING, and write that (and pressures) down for future (hopefully more than one day) use.
BTW, too MUCH gas pressure can screw you just as much as too LITTLE, so the scientific method is definitely your friend.
At least you're not trying to do this with NG - it has about one TENTH of the tolerance for flame fuel/air ratio as propane... Steve
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dragoneggs
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I just can't get the dang thing to stay lit. Staying below 10 on the manifold pressure. Per the warning in the manual. Did even try just a tad higher... still no dice. Dialed it down... nope. Ready to shoot it.
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dragoneggs
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Yellow LED has only come on once last night and that is when I started prematurely dancing. There seems to be plenty of flame. Pulling the flame rod or flame sensor will be a pain. Since I am getting ignition I am assuming the flame rod is okay. I am questioning the flame sensor since it seems it has only worked once. I have checked and rechecked and reseated several connections. All looks good.
Since the igniter keeps 'clicking' long after ignition, it seems the sensor isn't feeding back to the stop the igniter. And because no flame sensed (the Yellow LED doesn't come on), the shuts the gas off.
Since the igniter keeps 'clicking' long after ignition, it seems the sensor isn't feeding back to the stop the igniter. And because no flame sensed (the Yellow LED doesn't come on), the shuts the gas off.
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dragoneggs
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Called a couple local HVAC companies and they won't touch it due to 'liability'. Not installed by them/professional. Got to be some small outfit that will come and check it out. Gonna have to go to the yellow pages tomorrow I guess. I'm stumped.
Peter 315
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You try to move the flame sensor or see if its loose .........
