My Horse Barn in Progress

   / My Horse Barn in Progress
  • Thread Starter
#51  
Step 11: Stall footing

The combination of concrete and the crushed rock base under it make the aisleway floor a full 8" higher than grade. To make up most of that height difference in the horse stalls, I had to bring in a few inches of dirt to be topped off with 4-5" of rock screenings. The screenings make a really good base for the stalls. The material compacts very well when it's wet and provides a nice stable surface for the stall mats to sit on, but isn't as hard and unforgiving as concrete. (Picture really good sand-castle sand, but the grains are sharp-edged, rather than rounded, so they stay locked together even after they dry). Plus, it is permeable enough to drain whatever urine happens to get through the bedding (wood shavings) and stall mats.

Pending all of this work, I left the walls off the north side of the barn so that I could still drive in with the tractor to dump the various material in the stalls. It was about 20 tons in all, and I definitely didn't want to have to do it with a shovel and a wheelbarrow! My 50HP tractor with a 6' bucket can't possibly make the turn into the 8' opening to the stalls from a 12' aisleway, so my only option was to leave the exterior walls off until the floors were done.

In retrospect, I should have paid for a dumptruck load of clean fill (which would be rock-free red clay around here) for the first few inches. However, wanting to save money I decided to "harvest" the dirt from a location nearby the barn. It's still good compactable clay, but unlike the dirt I could have bought, it was absolutely FILLED with rocks, not to mention lots of kudzu roots and, as it turns out, a very cold baby snake. :)

To make matters worse, right after I got the dirt dumped in the stalls, we got 6" of snow. With no north walls on the barn, the snow blew in and covered all the dirt, then spent the following week melting and turning the clay into a rock-filled muddy mess. If you've never experienced this Carolina clay, let me explain a little about it. When it's wet, if you take one step in it, you'll have an inch of clay stuck to the bottom of your boot. If you take six steps in it, you'll have six inches stuck to the bottoms of your boots. :) It's pretty incredible stuff. Anyway, needless to say, it's absolutely impossible to rake rocks and roots out of the stuff when it's wet.

Eventually, things melted and dried out enough for me to rake (and rake and rake and rake), interrupted occasionally by some cursing and self-kicking for not buying the dirt instead, until eventually I got most of the rocks out. Then it was a matter of dumping, spreading, and screeding the screenings, which was still a lot of work, but much easier than the clay. The last step (which I still have yet to do) is to compact the screenings and re-screed to get a final hard, flat surface.

Here are some pics:

First, a pic of the freshly dumped dirt (pre-snow).
IMG_0414.jpg


After some raking. (This is the south side of the barn, so there had been a lot less snow on this side). I ended up removing 3 full 6' bucketloads of rocks from these three stalls alone, plus a bunch more that I raked directly out the side doors.
IMG_0433.jpg


This little guy must have had a rude awakening when he got scooped up. He's a brown watersnake, so I don't know what he was doing buried in the dirt more than a quarter mile away from the river. Maybe that's how they spend the winter? Anyway, it's hard to tell from the picture, but he's only about five or six inches long.
IMG_0439.jpg


Screenings in the north side of the barn, along with one of my "helpers".
IMG_0455.jpg


Screenings in the north side of the barn.
IMG_0463.jpg


Another shot of the south side.
IMG_0465.jpg
 
   / My Horse Barn in Progress #52  
Step 11: Stall footing

The combination of concrete and the crushed rock base under it make the aisleway floor a full 8" higher than grade. To make up most of that height difference in the horse stalls, I had to bring in a few inches of dirt to be topped off with 4-5" of rock screenings. The screenings make a really good base for the stalls. The material compacts very well when it's wet and provides a nice stable surface for the stall mats to sit on, but isn't as hard and unforgiving as concrete. (Picture really good sand-castle sand, but the grains are sharp-edged, rather than rounded, so they stay locked together even after they dry). Plus, it is permeable enough to drain whatever urine happens to get through the bedding (wood shavings) and stall mats.

Pending all of this work, I left the walls off the north side of the barn so that I could still drive in with the tractor to dump the various material in the stalls. It was about 20 tons in all, and I definitely didn't want to have to do it with a shovel and a wheelbarrow! My 50HP tractor with a 6' bucket can't possibly make the turn into the 8' opening to the stalls from a 12' aisleway, so my only option was to leave the exterior walls off until the floors were done.

In retrospect, I should have paid for a dumptruck load of clean fill (which would be rock-free red clay around here) for the first few inches. However, wanting to save money I decided to "harvest" the dirt from a location nearby the barn. It's still good compactable clay, but unlike the dirt I could have bought, it was absolutely FILLED with rocks, not to mention lots of kudzu roots and, as it turns out, a very cold baby snake. :)

To make matters worse, right after I got the dirt dumped in the stalls, we got 6" of snow. With no north walls on the barn, the snow blew in and covered all the dirt, then spent the following week melting and turning the clay into a rock-filled muddy mess. If you've never experienced this Carolina clay, let me explain a little about it. When it's wet, if you take one step in it, you'll have an inch of clay stuck to the bottom of your boot. If you take six steps in it, you'll have six inches stuck to the bottoms of your boots. :) It's pretty incredible stuff. Anyway, needless to say, it's absolutely impossible to rake rocks and roots out of the stuff when it's wet.

Eventually, things melted and dried out enough for me to rake (and rake and rake and rake), interrupted occasionally by some cursing and self-kicking for not buying the dirt instead, until eventually I got most of the rocks out. Then it was a matter of dumping, spreading, and screeding the screenings, which was still a lot of work, but much easier than the clay. The last step (which I still have yet to do) is to compact the screenings and re-screed to get a final hard, flat surface.

The barn's lookin' great. I am soooo jealous! I won't be able to do anything with mine until at least April.
 
   / My Horse Barn in Progress
  • Thread Starter
#53  
Step 12: Sliding Doors

I designed the barn to have three sets of sliding doors - one pair on each gable end and an additional pair on the side of the barn at the wash rack. The end doors are 6' wide and 10' high each. The wash rack doors are slightly smaller, 4'8" x 9'8".

The basic design for all of the doors is the same and relatively simple. It starts with a frame of 2x4's on the flat, with the bottom member being a 2x8 on the flat. This provides a "skeleton" for the door which is 1.5" thick. I then attach an additional 2x4, ripped down to 2 1/8" wide, on edge along each side, as well as an additional 2x4 ripped down to 3 1/8" on edge along the top. Then I apply the T1-11 "skin" to the inside skeleton. Since the T1-11 is 5/8" thick, this brings the interior of the door flush with the 2x's on the sides. Meanwhile, the 2x along the top remains 1 inch proud of the skin. Finally, I add the trim and crossbuck to the surface of the skin using 5/4x6 lumber. Since the planed 5/4 lumber is actually 1" thick, this brings the front surface flush with the top 2x member, and the resulting door is 3 1/8" thick.

The big doors, with much of their skeleton and all of the trim made from wet PT lumber, plus all of the T1-11, end up weighing in around 450 pounds. The wash rack doors are a little lighter. Hanging these suckers as a one-man operation was a bit of a head-scratcher. There was no way I was going to be able to manhandle them into place by myself, so I had to come up with a way to do it with the tractor. If you haven't seen it, my solution was posted here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/160852-how-hang-450-pound-barn.html

At this point, all of the doors are built and all but one set of gable doors is hung.

Here are the pics:

The skeleton, including the 2x's on edge on the sides and top.
IMG_0516.jpg


A close-up of the top.
IMG_0518.jpg


A close-up of the bottom.
IMG_0520.jpg


The skin applied to the skeleton.
IMG_0522.jpg


Applying the trim.
IMG_0427.jpg


Continuing the crossbuck.
IMG_0430.jpg


Hanging the doors.
IMG_0498.jpg


One set of gable doors in place.
IMG_0500.jpg


The inside of the barn with the north wall finally closed in and doors on the north and west walls.
IMG_0504.jpg


The view from outside with all of the doors closed up blocking the wind.
IMG_0514.jpg
 
   / My Horse Barn in Progress
  • Thread Starter
#54  
The barn's lookin' great. I am soooo jealous! I won't be able to do anything with mine until at least April.

Just that last set of doors to hang and then I'll FINALLY have it pretty much dried in. Can't wait to be able to work out there with a heater going and no rain, snow, or mud to contend with!
 
   / My Horse Barn in Progress #55  
Could you explain the sidewall construction? I've not seen it done like that with the bottom at 12" on
center and the top appears at 24". ( First picture )

Horses kicking?
 
   / My Horse Barn in Progress
  • Thread Starter
#56  
Could you explain the sidewall construction? I've not seen it done like that with the bottom at 12" on
center and the top appears at 24". ( First picture )

Horses kicking?

You got it! On the south side of the barn there will be paddocks so horses will have unsupervised direct access to those walls from the outside. Having studs 12" OC for the bottom 4' should minimize the chances of them kicking through the T1-11. The inside walls of all the stalls will be T&G 2x6's, so kicking through from the inside is a non-issue. That's why, as you may have noticed, I didn't bother with the 12" OC studs on the north wall or the gable ends - just the wall where they'll have unsupervised access to the outside.
 
   / My Horse Barn in Progress #57  
A beautiful design and excellant construction. As a horse owner I can attest to horses kicking the back walls of their stalls. My horse barn is concrete block, so they soon learned to dislike kicking and chewing. However, several friends have found out what happens if they kick through your stall walls: tearing up a hoof or hock is pretty much the end of a useful horse. I suggest you line the inside back walls of the stall with chain link fencing and then cover it with some replaceable structure board. The fencing will give the wall some "give" and also prevent the hoof from breaking through and getting stuck in the wall. The strand board keeps a shoed hoof from getting stuck in the wire.

"No Hoof, no Horse" is what my farrier always says.

Also, make sure all your horses can see each other from their stalls. Pasture buddies get agitated when they can't see their friends and will kick or dig to get to them. Didn't see any provision for hay storage or easy hay delivery, but that will need to be accomodated.

I don't recommend doing any welding or cutting in a horse barn. The arc noise will bother the horses and the chances of starting a fire from chaff and sparks are pretty high.
 
   / My Horse Barn in Progress
  • Thread Starter
#58  
A beautiful design and excellant construction. As a horse owner I can attest to horses kicking the back walls of their stalls. My horse barn is concrete block, so they soon learned to dislike kicking and chewing. However, several friends have found out what happens if they kick through your stall walls: tearing up a hoof or hock is pretty much the end of a useful horse. I suggest you line the inside back walls of the stall with chain link fencing and then cover it with some replaceable structure board. The fencing will give the wall some "give" and also prevent the hoof from breaking through and getting stuck in the wall. The strand board keeps a shoed hoof from getting stuck in the wire.

"No Hoof, no Horse" is what my farrier always says.

Also, make sure all your horses can see each other from their stalls. Pasture buddies get agitated when they can't see their friends and will kick or dig to get to them. Didn't see any provision for hay storage or easy hay delivery, but that will need to be accomodated.

I don't recommend doing any welding or cutting in a horse barn. The arc noise will bother the horses and the chances of starting a fire from chaff and sparks are pretty high.

All good advice. Thanks. That's a great idea with the chain link. I should have put some under the T1-11 on the outside of the wall. I'm not worried about them kicking from inside because all those studs will be covered with horizontal tongue-and-groove 2x6's. If they can kick through 1.5" of southern yellow pine screwed to studs on 12" centers, I'll be impressed! Hopefully if they kick through the T1-11 it won't be too detrimental since their hooves should be stopped 3 1/2" later by the T&G on the inside.

Most of the hay will be stored outside of the barn. We're currently using a 48' furniture van trailer, which you may have seen in some of the previous pictures. I'll eventually build a hay shed nearby the barn, but that's a project for the future. I plan to have maybe a couple hundred bails worth of storage above the tack room and feed room for good well-cured hay. No green hay stacked anywhere in the barn! Way too much of a fire hazard.
 
   / My Horse Barn in Progress #59  
First let me say that I really admire your barn. Job well done and a lot a pride put into it. I like the way it's laid out. My concerns are with the inside of the stalls. I understand you wanting to put down the good base of which rubber stall mats will be used. I see future problems with urine and water as you clean out the stalls. I think that rot from moisture (urine, water hose, moisture from elements) will be your enemy. As far as lining the walls with T&G 2X6's, I think in most cases will be great as far as keeping most horses from kicking through. The cases I've seen isn't so much as the "kick through" as the problem as is the "pull back through". Your idea should alleviate any of it but again, you might have the rot problem down low. BTW, I once had a mare kick through a sheet metal wall right where two seems came together and when she pulled her foot back through is when she did the most damage. A cut hoof/coronary band area can bleed pretty profusely. Not that this is your situation just thought I'd mention it. As far as the loft goes, I've always liked lofts in barns as long as I had a conveyor to carry them up to it. As a youngster bucking bales into a loft was "macho" now at 46 it's just plain hard work.

Just thought I'd share some similar experiences. Good luck and job well done.

Jay
 
   / My Horse Barn in Progress
  • Thread Starter
#60  
First let me say that I really admire your barn. Job well done and a lot a pride put into it. I like the way it's laid out. My concerns are with the inside of the stalls. I understand you wanting to put down the good base of which rubber stall mats will be used. I see future problems with urine and water as you clean out the stalls. I think that rot from moisture (urine, water hose, moisture from elements) will be your enemy. As far as lining the walls with T&G 2X6's, I think in most cases will be great as far as keeping most horses from kicking through. The cases I've seen isn't so much as the "kick through" as the problem as is the "pull back through". Your idea should alleviate any of it but again, you might have the rot problem down low. BTW, I once had a mare kick through a sheet metal wall right where two seems came together and when she pulled her foot back through is when she did the most damage. A cut hoof/coronary band area can bleed pretty profusely. Not that this is your situation just thought I'd mention it. As far as the loft goes, I've always liked lofts in barns as long as I had a conveyor to carry them up to it. As a youngster bucking bales into a loft was "macho" now at 46 it's just plain hard work.

Just thought I'd share some similar experiences. Good luck and job well done.

Jay

Thanks for the encouragement, Jay. All of the T&G boards will be laid horizontally, and the bottom one or two (basically anywhere that will ever have continuous contact with soil, bedding material, or concrete) will be pressure treated. I also plan to attach them with screws, so if I ever do need to replace any rotting ones, it shouldn't be too, too difficult (at least that's the plan :) ). I don't know if it showed up in the pictures or not, but I also used PT lumber for all the bottom plates and rim boards on the stud walls. Unless I've grossly overlooked something, there shouldn't be any contact between non-PT lumber and any significant source of moisture. Hopefully that will mitigate any of the concerns you mentioned.

As far as moving hay up above the tack room and feed room goes, I plan to make extensive use of the tractor to help me. My bucket forks with an 8' wide platform should let me stack a few dozen at a time on the tractor, lift them up in the air, and then just move them horizontally to stack them. Not as nice as a conveyor, but much better than throwing them up there by hand!

Josh
 

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