My Horse Barn in Progress

[dcyrilc]

Here are some more recent pics of the progress. I've now got the sheathing completely done on three sides, and partly done on the fourth. I'm still waiting on the weather to stay dry long enough to get a load of rock screenings to finish off the horse stalls. After that, I shouldn't need to drive the tractor into the stalls anymore, so I can finish off those final walls. In the meantime, the wife has started priming the T1-11 that's already up. Hopefully we'll get enough warm, dry weather to finish the paint in the next few weeks.

I have several window openings framed out, but I still need to cut out the holes and install the windows. It's a little tricky installing windows in T1-11. At this point I'm planning to just nail the window flanges to the outside of the T1-11, peel and stick the flashing, then cover the perimeter with some well-caulked wood trim. Anybody have any suggestions/improvements to this plan?

How's the barn handling the winter?

 

[dave1949]

Looking good!

For your windows, I would put a double bead of caulk on the T1-11 before nailing the window flanges down. That gives you a chance to fill the grooves in the T1-11 too and makes a good air and water tight seal between the window and siding. The peel and stick flashing is good too.
Dave.

 

[jcaron2]

How's the barn handling the winter?

So far so good. We've had lots of rain all winter long and now 6-7" of snow which has been slowly melting over the last five days, so everything's a muddy mess. Reminds me of Maine in late April.

I'm still working on doors, so both ends of the barn are still open, and most of the north side of the barn is still without walls to allow me to drive the tractor in. The walls have been waiting on the clay and screenings for the stall floors, but the clay and screenings have been waiting for the stalls to dry out, but the lack of walls means lots of melting snow inside the barn. Kind of a catch-22.

Anyway, as of two days ago the stalls had finally dried out enough that I could get started on the stalls. I had a fair amount of mud to rake out, but I finally managed to get the stall floors done yesterday (other than tamping the screenings; need to go rent a tamper for that), so now I can finally finish those walls off! I'm looking forward to having everything dried in so I can work the rest of the winter without caring too much about the weather. I'll post some pics pretty soon.

 

[jcaron2]

Looking good!

For your windows, I would put a double bead of caulk on the T1-11 before nailing the window flanges down. That gives you a chance to fill the grooves in the T1-11 too and makes a good air and water tight seal between the window and siding. The peel and stick flashing is good too.
Dave.

Thanks, Dave. That's pretty much the plan I'd arrived at, though I'm a little concerned that water may seep behind the flange then get trapped when it reaches the caulk line. I may also try to slice a beveled kerf into the T1-11 just above the window flange so I can stick some flashing into it and bend it down over the flange. Then I'll cover it all up with the wood trim. Depends how much of a pain it turns out to be when I try it on a piece of scrap.

Josh

 

[dcyrilc]

So far so good. We've had lots of rain all winter long and now 6-7" of snow which has been slowly melting over the last five days, so everything's a muddy mess. Reminds me of Maine in late April.

I'm still working on doors, so both ends of the barn are still open, and most of the north side of the barn is still without walls to allow me to drive the tractor in. The walls have been waiting on the clay and screenings for the stall floors, but the clay and screenings have been waiting for the stalls to dry out, but the lack of walls means lots of melting snow inside the barn. Kind of a catch-22.

Anyway, as of two days ago the stalls had finally dried out enough that I could get started on the stalls. I had a fair amount of mud to rake out, but I finally managed to get the stall floors done yesterday (other than tamping the screenings; need to go rent a tamper for that), so now I can finally finish those walls off! I'm looking forward to having everything dried in so I can work the rest of the winter without caring too much about the weather. I'll post some pics pretty soon.

I can definately relate to the rain. During October and November we doubled our normal amount. Then we had sub freezing temps for about two weeks which worked perfect as I had 7 tons of hay delivered and put in that barn. There's no way we would have got it in if it hadn't been frozen. My delivery came the day I fed my last bale too. How does that work?

My barn will be on hold now until mid to late spring when things start to dry out. Just means I have time to work on the tractor til spring!

Merry Christmas to you and yours,
Looking forward to hearing how things progress.

 

[dave1949]

Thanks, Dave. That's pretty much the plan I'd arrived at, though I'm a little concerned that water may seep behind the flange then get trapped when it reaches the caulk line. I may also try to slice a beveled kerf into the T1-11 just above the window flange so I can stick some flashing into it and bend it down over the flange. Then I'll cover it all up with the wood trim. Depends how much of a pain it turns out to be when I try it on a piece of scrap.

Josh

By peel and stick flashing I thought you meant a product like Grace Ice and Water Shield. Roofing Membranes, Window Flashings and Deck Protection Materials offered by Grace Check out their flashing products.

Strips of self-adhering water proof material about 6" wide is what I have seen. Start by going across the bottom of the window, then up the sides overlapping the bottom, then across the top overlapping the sides. This is after you have the window flanges nailed down. The overlaps work like asphalt shingles - always shedding over the layer below.

If you cover that with trim, and caulk between the trim outside edges and wall, it should be pretty water tight. You will have multiples 'lines of defense' to water seeping around your window. If you add a metal flashing above the window, that can't hurt either.

The best caulk I have run across is Geocel ProFlex. Comes in clear and several colors. Great sunlight resistance and binds well to surfaces. Tough as heck. Stinks to high heaven for a few days when used in doors.
Dave.

 

[tree grower]

In your first post of this thread (9-24-09) you show thumbnails of the barn design. What program did you use for the design work? There is another thread currently active about design software, and Google Sketchup gets high marks. I downloaded the program and watched a few training videos, but it doesn't seem all that friendly to me. I use Arcmap all the time for forest management maps, and feel pretty comfortable with it, but SU seems more complicated than necessary. If it's operator problem, I can accept that.

 

[jcaron2]

In your first post of this thread (9-24-09) you show thumbnails of the barn design. What program did you use for the design work? There is another thread currently active about design software, and Google Sketchup gets high marks. I downloaded the program and watched a few training videos, but it doesn't seem all that friendly to me. I use Arcmap all the time for forest management maps, and feel pretty comfortable with it, but SU seems more complicated than necessary. If it's operator problem, I can accept that.

I'm an electrical engineer, so I actually used a 3D electromagnetic modeling program called HFSS. It's designed to calculate the electric and magnetic fields inside integrated circuits and radiation patterns of antennas at high frequencies, but since it's got a great 3D drawing interface and since I've got a lot of experience with it, I figured why not use it in my spare time to design my barn. It works great as long as you've got an extra $60k or so lying around. It ain't cheap!

Google SU is at the opposite end of the price spectrum, but like you, I had trouble with it. That being said, it was years ago when I tried it, so maybe it's a lot different now.

I'll check out the thread you mentioned, since I'm curious what else people are using these days.

 

[Scotty370]

jcaron2- I Just sent you a PM, before I read tree grower's post! I'm a Sketch-Up buff, and was hoping to 'steal' your files. You can disregard it. Thanks anyway. Beautiful build!! I'm thinking of building my own trusses from rough-cut (Amish) hemlock. Full 2x4,etc. For any other Barn/Shed/Shop, Designer/Builders, I found this site interesting!

Engineering & Architectural Info

~Scotty

 

[jcaron2]

jcaron2- I Just sent you a PM, before I read tree grower's post! I'm a Sketch-Up buff, and was hoping to 'steal' your files. You can disregard it. Thanks anyway. Beautiful build!! I'm thinking of building my own trusses from rough-cut (Amish) hemlock. Full 2x4,etc. For any other Barn/Shed/Shop, Designer/Builders, I found this site interesting!

Engineering & Architectural Info

~Scotty

Thanks, Scotty! Though my 3D files won't work for you, I do have 2D drawings as well that I made in CorelDraw after I finalized the 3D model. I can send you those if you want either in native format or as a pdf. As you can see, I used rafters instead of trusses, but it'll at least be another design to look at and possibly steal/improve upon various aspects.

Btw, that site looks pretty useful. I hadn't stumbled across that one before. Thanks for sharing.

Josh