My new CK 30

[Mousefield]

I just got off the phone with Bromely and they had just got off the phone with Kioti. They are going to change the HST unit. Although I'm glad it's going to be fixed without an argument, I'm a little worried about the tractor having to be split to do it. I've heard that it's never really the same afterward, anybody ever had experience with their CK 30 split?



I'm relieved I won't have to go to war over this, as pleasantly as possible of course. I'm really trying to have a positive relationship with Bromely as I'll be relying on them for many years to come.[/QUOTE]

Don't see any reason why it would not be the same after being fixed. Main thing is they are looking after and as you said "I won't have to go to war over this".
Hope the repair goes well and then it's just many happy and safe hours :licking: in the seat.

 

[VictorW]

I've had my CK30hst for 6 years and 500 hours of trouble free time. Sorry to hear that you have one with problems. You should be able to get any problems worked out through warranty and your dealer seems to be working to make the tractor correct.

I wouldn't be worried about the splitting of the tractor. If they know what they are doing, all will be fine. I once had an old Ford 8n apart in pieces. It worked great for 13 years and still is for the new owner.

 

[Gregster613]

Wow, that sounds like an unusual amount of various glitches to arise with a brand new tractor, and before 50 hours are even on it!
But I second what others have said; it sure seems as if you've gotten yourself a top-notch dealer! Splitting it shouldn't have any effects upon it's future performance at all. All should be covered under warranty also.
Enjoy your new tool & Happy future Tractorin! Greg

 

[Alien]

My CK30 HST used to creep forward. I just adjusted the pedal centralising cylinder rod a fraction and it fixed it.

 

[kiotiken]

Thanks guys, I know it shouldn't change the tractor, but it was actually the dealer who said they wouldn't want to split the tractor unless they absolutely had to.
For all the CK HST owners out there, here's what I'm going to attribute my HST problem to. I have no real knowledge in these matters, this is just my advice. I only started to notice the HST issue after I drove the tractor to my auto mechanic to have a leak in the tire fixed. I did this twice, and once I had the backhoe on the tractor (1200lbs according to the dealer). I used full throttle and 3rd gear (high) and drove 5 KM (3 miles). There are a few hills along the way, with one hill in particular that bogged the tractor down. I considered stopping and shifting to 2nd gear, but was nearly at the top of the hill. I have since learned (through this forum and then by talking to my dealer last night) that you should never operate the HST under 1800 rpm. I don't know for sure how low the RPM's fell up the big hill, but I'd bet it was 1800 or maybe a little lower. It was after these trips that I started noticing the creeping issue.
Like I say, I have no idea if that is what caused the issue, but it's easy enough to avoid, so I'm passing it along.

 

[kiotiken]

My CK30 HST used to creep forward. I just adjusted the pedal centralising cylinder rod a fraction and it fixed it.

That is what Kioti told the dealer to try and what the dealer was out to do on Monday. The pedal definitely does come back faster now, but it still creeps. After it does finally stop for a second, it usually gives one last little jolt and moves a couple of more feet.

 

[Mousefield]

That is what Kioti told the dealer to try and what the dealer was out to do on Monday. The pedal definitely does come back faster now, but it still creeps. After it does finally stop for a second, it usually gives one last little jolt and moves a couple of more feet.

So looks like next time it is at the dealer they just need to tweak the pedal adjustment a bit.
I do think the you should run the tractor at no less than 2000 RPM not 1800 RPM.
I am usually between 2200 and 2400 RPM.
When using my backhoe I usually operate it at 1600-1800 RPM.

 

[kiotiken]

Unfortunately, the dealer never mentioned anything about keeping it above 1800 or 2000 rpm, but I will definitely abide by that from now on. I rarely ever moved it under 2000 rpm anyway, mostly doing bh work.
The tech told me he had adjusted everything he could. It does seem to come back faster, but then the creep continues as before. I believe he also replaced a spring. I was told they've done all they can in the way of adjustments.

 

[Mousefield]

Always warm it up for a few minutes before using it (if the engine is cold). How many minutes would depend on how cold it is. I have always let it run for a few minutes at least, not that cold out this way for most of the year. After I start it and it has run for 20-30 seconds I bump the RPM to around 1400 - 1500, this gives me a few minutes to give the tractor a quick inspection for loose/missing things. I have attached the page out of the manual regarding warm up and it explains the reason why.

 

[kiotiken]

Wow, thanks MouseField. I guess that shows that I'm guilty of not reading my manual thoroughly enough. This also may explain the bearing that blew though the rear diff of my JD 955 (and resulted in my new CK30). The temp was -35 C or so. I let it warm up for a few minutes, but not 溺ore than 20 minutes as the page you attached suggested. I went from low to high gear and 5 minutes later I had a hydraulic fluid lake on my rink.
In my neck of the woods, there have been days with the wind chill below -50 C. I had no idea the warm up time would be anywhere near that long. I look forward to the dash out to the tractor in a tee shirt and slippers to start it when it痴 -40 C with the wind!