My new welder

Shield Arc · Jan 1, 2012

I never seen 7014 on a job site. But after reading post after post after post about 7014 I had to try it. :laughing:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/207094-oh-baby-where-you-been.html

rankrank1 · Jan 1, 2012

k0ua said:
...With all of this love of the 7014, maybe I should try a different brand?...

James K0UA

Maximum appreciation for 7014 will be if you are still using an AC only buzzbox like the original poster. Actually I almost think 7014 burns better on AC than DC, but I have not experimented enough with that theory yet to see. I had an AC only buzzbox for much longer than I have had an AC/DC buzzbox. Regardless, I have much more amp capacity on AC 225 than DC 150 so I do know that 7014 is a keeper for me.

If you are having great results with the 7018 on your inverter then no reason to switch.

IMOP: Taking it a step further, Once you find a brand and size of rod that works well with whatever welding machine that you own then that brand and size is a keeper. This is also a very good way overcome tap setting limits on certain buzzboxes with taps that jump say every 15 amps or. Find the brand and size that works best for the setting that you have available on the welder as every brand of rod burns slightly different. (e.g. Take a Lincoln AC225 welder with tapped settings. You might find that you like US Forge brand 3/32 6011 because it burns well at a setting you have on the welder, but jump to say 1/8 6011 and the Hobart brand might burn better in that size because it burns better at the setting that you actually have available on your welder).

Shield Arc · Jan 1, 2012

JB4310 said:
I don't believe it's an inverter, just old school thunderbolt. Not sure what the CC means.

And I stated 170 amps dc, that was wrong obviously, since this machine only goes to 150 dc, I notice I'm usually up there right near the limit, never needed 150 yet, but just below, around 140 amps probably. 3/16" to 1/2"

JB

CC means constant current.

I'd try another brand of rod. And, what little 7014 I've run, it took me about 15-seconds to realize I needed to use more angle to the rod. Just about like 6013, around 30-degrees.

JB4310 · Jan 1, 2012

Shield Arc said:
CC means constant current.

I'd try another brand of rod. And, what little 7014 I've run, it took me about 15-seconds to realize I needed to use more angle to the rod. Just about like 6013, around 30-degrees.

Is it a drag rod like 7018? I will give them another try.
I see by the chart pictured of the front of my welder, that 7014 is listed as med penetration and 7018 as low.

I thought 7018 was the industry standard for structural work ??

JB

Shield Arc · Jan 1, 2012

Yes it's a drag rod, but I don't really drag anything I always add a little movement to wash in the toes of the weld.

Well I've been on a few structural jobs in my time, can't remember one of them without 7018. Even if we were running wire, there was always some 7018 in the gang box.

crash325 · Jan 1, 2012

I sure agree that all brands of rod are different and 1 will work better on this or that welder. Lincoln Fleet Weld has been my biggest problem rod.

Murex 1/8" 6011 worked great for several years and I used it for almost everything from about .080 on up to 1" material. It would run as low as 40 amps AC on thin stuff and on thick metal 125 amps AC.

Now that I have an AC / DC Tombstone, I'm back to learning to weld, the right setting and looking for the "Perfect" rod.

One of you folks that knows about electric plugs look at the picture and let me know which plug is correct for 220V. One on left is the one I use on both welders. 1 On the right is the one cut off the AC/DC machine.

Thanks & Merry New years.
Jim

grsthegreat · Jan 2, 2012

rankrank1 said:
Yep sometimes you get lucky with the small packages and the wax paper seal. If it is not punctured then it is often okay. Unfortunately most small packages that I buy always seem to have a small puncture somewhere in the wax paper or plastic.

I see small rod ovens occasionally on Craigslist for dirt cheap. However, I have no interest in paying the $100-$150 yearly cost in electricity to run it even if you gave me the rod oven for free. Simply an expense that I do not personally need for my infrequent needs when other rods work perfectly fine for my applications.

errr. a rod oven once heated doesnt run much ever hour. Its highly insulated. I put a meter on mine and though its a smaller 15 # quantity oven, it runs on 100 watts of power (a light bulb). I did the calcs and at $0.06/kwh that i pay it only costs me about $22.00/year to operate. i tested mine in the winter, so im sure the figures are even lower as it runs less in the 6 warmer months.