My new welder

[deereman75]

On the off chance that I ever have to weld some exotic alloy steel then I will buy a small pack of 7018AC and improvise dry them in a salvage toaster oven. Only the large tins of 7018 or 7018AC are properly sealed from the factory and 7018 or 7018AC should be kept in a rod oven. So it will cost to operate a rod oven year round if you want the convenience of having 7018 readily available. Certainly worth it to a professional doing code work or someone in a production environment, but not to someone like me who predominantly only works with mild steel and old junky farm equipment every now and then. Yes you can use non-rod oven stored 7018 or 7018AC on non-code work, but it can be quite tempermental to borderline impossible to run on lower end welders.

I run 7018ac on my tombstone, right out of the box. I got the box at princess auto, had it sitting around in my basement for a while. When I finally got to using them, I just opened it up, and started welding, they ran fine. I just keep all my rods in the open cardboard boxs, sitting on a cart in my damp shed. The only issue I have had so far was the box of 6011 getting too dry.... I will get around to building a rod oven sometime, and that might help a bit, but they really do run fine after sitting around for a while. Although from now on due to cost, I will buy rods in bigger cartons from air liquide. Then I will need a rod oven for how long they will sit.

 

[rankrank1]

That's very interesting! Did you get that out of a book, or personal experience?

Unfortunately, I am more book smart when it comes to welding than experience smart. Unfortuantely, knowledge in the head does not necessarily translate to pro level weld beads - there is absolutely no substitute for skill and experience in welding and I do wish I had more of it. That said, while my welds are not always pretty I have yet to have one fail.

 

[Shield Arc]

Well that's good I hate to read, so stick around and you can teach me sumthing!
I haven't run any 7024 since maybe the early 1980s. And never did do any testing with it. Always tried to avoid 6013.

 

[rankrank1]

I run 7018ac on my tombstone, right out of the box. I got the box at princess auto, had it sitting around in my basement for a while. When I finally got to using them, I just opened it up, and started welding, they ran fine. I just keep all my rods in the open cardboard boxs, sitting on a cart in my damp shed. The only issue I have had so far was the box of 6011 getting too dry.... I will get around to building a rod oven sometime, and that might help a bit, but they really do run fine after sitting around for a while. Although from now on due to cost, I will buy rods in bigger cartons from air liquide. Then I will need a rod oven for how long they will sit.

Yep sometimes you get lucky with the small packages and the wax paper seal. If it is not punctured then it is often okay. Unfortunately most small packages that I buy always seem to have a small puncture somewhere in the wax paper or plastic.

I see small rod ovens occasionally on Craigslist for dirt cheap. However, I have no interest in paying the $100-$150 yearly cost in electricity to run it even if you gave me the rod oven for free. Simply an expense that I do not personally need for my infrequent needs when other rods work perfectly fine for my applications.

 

[rankrank1]

Well that's good I hate to read, so stick around and you can teach me sumthing!
I haven't run any 7024 since maybe the early 1980s. And never did do any testing with it. Always tried to avoid 6013.

Well you not having running any of 7024 since the early 1980's, pretty much proves my point in regards to 7024 from the "skill and experience" vantage point. No real need for 7024 in a hobby shop. 7014 will do it plus cover other applications too.

And you must like to read at least a little or you would not post on forums.

6013 is not my favorite rod either as it is prone to wormholing. That siad it is useful for thin metal if no wire feeder is available so I do keep (1/16" and 5/64" diameters and even some 3/32) and they can be quite useful with care.

Also, if all you have is an ancient tiny 115 volt transformer based machine of 70 amps maximum or less then 1/16" or 5/64" 6013 is about all a tiny welder such as this will run. I have a small 50 amp 115 volt transformer welder that I play with for fun sometimes just for portability.

 

[Shield Arc]

I think the LN-22s, and LN-25s killed 7024 in my line of work. I know the last time I ran any 7024 it was in a saw mill welding down conveyors. The boss didn't know anything about welding, he rented one of those little two cylinder gas engine Lincoln welders that is smaller than wheel barrow, can't remember the name. You know the one I'm talking about? Anyway he bought some 5/32 7024, when the welding machine arrived I told him he better send it back, that 7024 will kill that machine. He just said get to work. Within 2 to 3 weeks that machine was puking oil! Every time I struck an arc I thought the machine was going to die!

 

[JB4310]

I just used my welder 2 days ago, dc, 170 amps 7018 1/8" I could pretty much get by with this rod for 95% of my needs.

Someone respectable recommended 7014, they even gave me a handful of them and told me I would love them. I was not impressed and went right back to the 7018's.

I've never dried them, but have been hearing all the concerns about how sensitive they are to moisture, I try to keep them wrapped tight in the original package, but I know they are not air tight. never seem to have a problem, beautiful (for amateur) welds that look like very good penetration.

The re-strike thing is very true, but a little extra pecking and it fires up.
I actually think, except for the re-strike issue, 7018 is the easiest rod to use.

JB

 

[Shield Arc]

Someone respectable recommended 7014, they even gave me a handful of them and told me I would love them. I was not impressed and went right back to the 7018's.

What machine are you using? If it's an inverter, I find inverters like one brand of rod over the other. Seems very strange to me, but it's what I've found.

 

[k0ua]

What machine are you using? If it's an inverter, I find inverters like one brand of rod over the other. Seems very strange to me, but it's what I've found.

Thats interesting, my inverter really likes these US forge 3/32 and 1/8 7018, but I bought a sample pack of 7014, and while they work, they dont seem to run as nice as the 7018. With all of this love of the 7014, maybe I should try a different brand? Perhaps I am not running them hot enough..or something I guess I need to try again. All these 7014 lovers surely can't be wrong.. I make pretty nice welds with 7018, but not so good with 7014. Or maybe I just got a bad batch..

James K0UA

 

[JB4310]

What machine are you using? If it's an inverter, I find inverters like one brand of rod over the other. Seems very strange to me, but it's what I've found.

I don't believe it's an inverter, just old school thunderbolt. Not sure what the CC means.

And I stated 170 amps dc, that was wrong obviously, since this machine only goes to 150 dc, I notice I'm usually up there right near the limit, never needed 150 yet, but just below, around 140 amps probably. 3/16" to 1/2"

JB

 

[Shield Arc]

I never seen 7014 on a job site. But after reading post after post after post about 7014 I had to try it. :laughing:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/207094-oh-baby-where-you-been.html

 

[rankrank1]

...With all of this love of the 7014, maybe I should try a different brand?...

James K0UA

Maximum appreciation for 7014 will be if you are still using an AC only buzzbox like the original poster. Actually I almost think 7014 burns better on AC than DC, but I have not experimented enough with that theory yet to see. I had an AC only buzzbox for much longer than I have had an AC/DC buzzbox. Regardless, I have much more amp capacity on AC 225 than DC 150 so I do know that 7014 is a keeper for me.

If you are having great results with the 7018 on your inverter then no reason to switch.

IMOP: Taking it a step further, Once you find a brand and size of rod that works well with whatever welding machine that you own then that brand and size is a keeper. This is also a very good way overcome tap setting limits on certain buzzboxes with taps that jump say every 15 amps or. Find the brand and size that works best for the setting that you have available on the welder as every brand of rod burns slightly different. (e.g. Take a Lincoln AC225 welder with tapped settings. You might find that you like US Forge brand 3/32 6011 because it burns well at a setting you have on the welder, but jump to say 1/8 6011 and the Hobart brand might burn better in that size because it burns better at the setting that you actually have available on your welder).

 

[Shield Arc]

I don't believe it's an inverter, just old school thunderbolt. Not sure what the CC means.

And I stated 170 amps dc, that was wrong obviously, since this machine only goes to 150 dc, I notice I'm usually up there right near the limit, never needed 150 yet, but just below, around 140 amps probably. 3/16" to 1/2"

JB

CC means constant current.

I'd try another brand of rod. And, what little 7014 I've run, it took me about 15-seconds to realize I needed to use more angle to the rod. Just about like 6013, around 30-degrees.

 

[JB4310]

CC means constant current.

I'd try another brand of rod. And, what little 7014 I've run, it took me about 15-seconds to realize I needed to use more angle to the rod. Just about like 6013, around 30-degrees.

Is it a drag rod like 7018? I will give them another try.
I see by the chart pictured of the front of my welder, that 7014 is listed as med penetration and 7018 as low.

I thought 7018 was the industry standard for structural work ??

JB

 

[Shield Arc]

Yes it's a drag rod, but I don't really drag anything I always add a little movement to wash in the toes of the weld.

Well I've been on a few structural jobs in my time, can't remember one of them without 7018. Even if we were running wire, there was always some 7018 in the gang box.

 

[crash325]

I sure agree that all brands of rod are different and 1 will work better on this or that welder. Lincoln Fleet Weld has been my biggest problem rod.

Murex 1/8" 6011 worked great for several years and I used it for almost everything from about .080 on up to 1" material. It would run as low as 40 amps AC on thin stuff and on thick metal 125 amps AC.

Now that I have an AC / DC Tombstone, I'm back to learning to weld, the right setting and looking for the "Perfect" rod.

One of you folks that knows about electric plugs look at the picture and let me know which plug is correct for 220V. One on left is the one I use on both welders. 1 On the right is the one cut off the AC/DC machine.

Thanks & Merry New years.
Jim

 

[grsthegreat]

Yep sometimes you get lucky with the small packages and the wax paper seal. If it is not punctured then it is often okay. Unfortunately most small packages that I buy always seem to have a small puncture somewhere in the wax paper or plastic.

I see small rod ovens occasionally on Craigslist for dirt cheap. However, I have no interest in paying the $100-$150 yearly cost in electricity to run it even if you gave me the rod oven for free. Simply an expense that I do not personally need for my infrequent needs when other rods work perfectly fine for my applications.

errr. a rod oven once heated doesnt run much ever hour. Its highly insulated. I put a meter on mine and though its a smaller 15 # quantity oven, it runs on 100 watts of power (a light bulb). I did the calcs and at $0.06/kwh that i pay it only costs me about $22.00/year to operate. i tested mine in the winter, so im sure the figures are even lower as it runs less in the 6 warmer months.

 

[Haywire]

Do they get hot to the touch on the outside when they are up to temp? I'm thinking about possible fire hazard in a cluttered shop.

Ian