My pole barn...a solo affair

[bindian]

Just yanking your chain a little. As far as lights go, I went with the T-8's because they are efficient. For most projects they are fine, but when I need more light I use a double halogen stand light. Do as search here and you will find a lot of good info on lighting a shop/barn.

Rick,
You did mean 4 foot fluorescent T8s? That is what I bought yesterday.
I will put them around the walls and if neede, buy some two or three of these Agricultural Supplies, Fabric Structures, Equine Buildings, Grain Storage, Livestock Buildings from FarmTek
with efficient compact fluorescent bulbs.
hugs, Brandi

 

[MotorSeven]

Yes, 4 footers & I am happy with them. I have 12 sets, 6 on each side of the 36' long ceiling.
My neighbor has those vapor lights in his Morton building. They are slow to come on(5min), the light they throw is a weird color, and they buzz/hum, I just don't care for them at all. I think the T8's do much better job and are much more efficient. Tractor Supply or most big box stores carry the double halogen stand lights for under $30. I use these when painting or welding when I need extra light on the subject:
Designer's Edge 1000 Watt Halogen Twin Head Tripod Work Light - 3206833 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[bindian]

Yes, 4 footers & I am happy with them. I have 12 sets, 6 on each side of the 36' long ceiling.
My neighbor has those vapor lights in his Morton building. They are slow to come on(5min), the light they throw is a weird color, and they buzz/hum, I just don't care for them at all. I think the T8's do much better job and are much more efficient. Tractor Supply or most big box stores carry the double halogen stand lights for under $30. I use these when painting or welding when I need extra light on the subject:
Designer's Edge 1000 Watt Halogen Twin Head Tripod Work Light - 3206833 | Tractor Supply Company

Rick,
Thanks for the link to TSC. How high did you hang the T8s?
hugs, Brandi

 

[MotorSeven]

Rick,
Thanks for the link to TSC. How high did you hang the T8s?
hugs, Brandi

Crap...I knew you would get me back for the Bindi crack. Now i have to show the world how jammed packed & dissss-organized my 30x36' shop is:smiley_aafz::

About 12' high.......

{cringe}

....I swear once the house is done this will become a real "work" shop and not a storage facility...........:confused2:

And for all those planning on building a shop....BUILD IT BIGGER!

 

[bindian]

Crap...I knew you would get me back for the Bindi crack. Now i have to show the world how jammed packed & dissss-organized my 30x36' shop is:smiley_aafz::

About 12' high.......




And for all those planning on building a shop....BUILD IT BIGGER!

Yeah Rick. You need to watch what you say. lol Funny thing........12 feet is about the height I started hanging them.

One word..................SHELVES.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I've been very busy in the barn shop. I installed the hardware cloth in the ridge vent opening. I was getting too many leaves and who knows what critters inside. I bought a HF pneumatic wide crown stapler to install the wire and loved using the stapler. Eventually, if it gets too cold inside, I plan on putting little doors up there. The wire went on in 5 foot by 12 inch sections. I had to cut 12 of these. Since the hardware cloth was only 19 guage, it was easy to cut with my dikes.

I am overly dissatisfied with the insulation. I did install it wrong, but even the rolls I have stored in the rafters have became brittle to the touch and crumble in your hands. So I ripped out all I could reach while up on the ladder. The whole barn and shop and shed are lined with this foil, air bubble, and white liner insulation. It was not cheap either.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I got started with the barn lighting. It was fun to start with. I have lots of outdoor 10 guage wire, so I started using that. I had to pull two wires of this 10 guage from the breaker panel to the light switches. I had to get Luke to help with the final pulling and pushing to line the conduit up. I have prior experience with this when I pulled the "0" guage wire from the ground over to the breaker panel through 1 & 1/4 inch conduit. The 10 guage I pulled through 1 inch conduit.

Anyway, I got the wires to the switches in and working. Now I am running conduit to the first recepticle box. I won't get much done tomorrow, as it is Sunday. Guess I might see if I can take off the first 2 work days of the year. Maybe all week, as I have spent a lot of money and it is all sitting, waiting for me to install it.

I did get fed up working the 10 guage and went back to Lowe's and bought 12 guage wire. That is what is running down the wall from the J box to the switch box. 12 guage is way more easier to work with than 10 guage.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I got all the sidewall lights installed last Friday. That is, until I get the work bench/loft area built. Then lights will be added around the outside of the workbench "room". It will be 8x14 foot with right at 5 foot head clearance in the loft above it. I will leave the opening to it open the full eight feet, so larger projects can be dragged in there, along with an area to park a tool cabinet (taco wagon).

My problem now, is to poke six 3/8 inch holes in the concrete for the bench wall. I tried drilling one hole with my cordless Mikita drill and a masonary bit. This combo has worked okay around the edges of the concrete, but 8 foot in from the edge, I am stumped. The concrete must have been packed and compacted real well. I am thinking of buying a 7 amp Skil rotary hammer from Lowes for $60. The local rental dealer wants $30 for a half day and $50 for a full day of rental. Is this a good product to buy. I have never used a rotary hammer. I do know the best rotary hammers are around 8 amp and that the blows per minute of the Skil are among the highest on display at Lowes. Shop Skil 1/2" 7-Amp Hammer Drill at Lowes.com

hugs, Brandi

 

[MotorSeven]

That ought to get it done & I agree, I hate renting. Be carefull, if/when that bit hits rebar the drill will spin in your hands and can break a wrist. Don't lock the throttle and only keep the tip of a finger on it so it slips off quickly. I have the big industrial grade Dewalt w/splined bits and I don't know how I have escaped the emergency room using that thing.

 

[bullbreaker]

My problem now, is to poke six 3/8 inch holes in the concrete for the bench wall. I tried drilling one hole with my cordless Mikita drill and a masonary bit. This combo has worked okay around the edges of the concrete, but 8 foot in from the edge, I am stumped. The concrete must have been packed and compacted real well. I am thinking of buying a 7 amp Skil rotary hammer from Lowes for $60. The local rental dealer wants $30 for a half day and $50 for a full day of rental. Is this a good product to buy. I have never used a rotary hammer. I do know the best rotary hammers are around 8 amp and that the blows per minute of the Skil are among the highest on display at Lowes. Shop Skil 1/2" 7-Amp Hammer Drill at Lowes.com hugs, Brandi

Know I'am writing this in kinda late but whatever you DO do not buy the Makita HP1640.My sons and I bought the same one thinking it was a lotta bang for the buck and they gave us nothing but trouble.The selector for hammer or drill on them gets jamed.
:thumbdown: HP1640 5/8 in. Hammer Drill-HP1640 at The Home Depot
Even though never owned one I would also run from the Makita HP1641K that utalizes the same switch as the model thats been given alot of trouble I mentioned.When we went to exchange the HP1640 even the one on display at HD was stuck jammed .
I ended up paying difference and gettin a Makita HP2050 :thumbsup: HP2050 3/4 in. Hammer Drill-HP2050 at The Home Depot which has been flawless.
First time I ever had a problem with a Makita product.I also own a Bosch Bulldog which I could not be happier with ! I buy all the sds Bosch stuff and have seen HF sells sds stuff but have never bought,used; or heard anyones experiences with them(HF sds).

Boone