My Property, Looking for info and comments.

[nrc17gto]

i agree with the 2" pipe for those distances..... think flow rate.

make sure they use a 2" water meter also...if you can get away with it. My water district always tries to downsize my 2" water meter.....i refuse to let them. what good is placing a 1" meter on a 2" system....kind of like a stopcock.

i really dont know why they bug me about it. its already in place ..not costing them anything. nutty people.

do you get freezing weather ???? why go above ground?? asking for problems

We do get some freezing weather. I am not going to go above ground, did I convey that somehow? I am going to go above my culvert for my creek, but I am going to be covering it with dirt so it will technically be below ground. I just do not want to try to make it 2 feet deep into the bedrock at the bottom of the creek.

Thanks for the info about the meter, I will make sure to remember that when the time comes. You're right, doesn't make since that they would want to mess with yours for the sake of doing it.

Nick

 

[markrahn]

So to cross the creek, you would put your 2" water line inside of a 4" sch 40 pipe, cross over on the road that you will build on your culvert. this will be covered by how much dirt/fill?

What about years that it would flood? I assume that you would run this across the side of the road so that traffic would not be running over it. you would need to make sure that water erosion wouldn't take the supporting/covering fill away from the pipe and make it susceptible to wash away or freeze.

interesting.

 

[nrc17gto]

So to cross the creek, you would put your 2" water line inside of a 4" sch 40 pipe, cross over on the road that you will build on your culvert. this will be covered by how much dirt/fill?

What about years that it would flood? I assume that you would run this across the side of the road so that traffic would not be running over it. you would need to make sure that water erosion wouldn't take the supporting/covering fill away from the pipe and make it susceptible to wash away or freeze.

interesting.

I am not sure how much dirt I would put on top of the 4" pvc. There would of course be some below it on top of the culvert, then maybe around 2' in all directions? I am in the process of determining the best way to build a head wall for the culvert. A head wall, on both ends, should retain the dirt and avoid erosion right? I would say the 3' culvert could handle all but a major flood. As far as a flood, I guess I will have to cross that bridge when I get there.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[tommu56]

Use concrete n bags pinned with rebar for the head walls
Look up eddiewalkers build on one for his lake.

tom

 

[markrahn]

nrc17gto Re: My Property, Looking for info and comments.

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I am not sure how much dirt I would put on top of the 4" pvc. There would of course be some below it on top of the culvert, then maybe around 2' in all directions? I am in the process of determining the best way to build a head wall for the culvert. A head wall, on both ends, should retain the dirt and avoid erosion right? I would say the 3' culvert could handle all but a major flood. As far as a flood, I guess I will have to cross that bridge when I get there.

So, would you build the upstream and downstream headwall from bank to bank of the creek. I guess that actually you would have to go even wider to ensure that you cover bank to bank on the level of the final grade of the road surface. that may run into some concrete. Not sure how wide the creek is. This is doable, but will take some planning. I plan better (I think) if I am studying the situation from a folding chair with my favorite frosty adult beverage

Are there any civil engineers here on TBN?

 

[nrc17gto]

Use concrete n bags pinned with rebar for the head walls
Look up eddiewalkers build on one for his lake.

tom

Why do you suggest concrete in bags? I was going to have the local concrete company come by when they have a little extra on the truck and pour it in a form that we make.

I started reading eddiewalker's thread a while back because it just seemed interesting. Unfortunately I have not made it through 177 pages, that is pretty much a short novel!

Thanks!

 

[nrc17gto]

So, would you build the upstream and downstream headwall from bank to bank of the creek. I guess that actually you would have to go even wider to ensure that you cover bank to bank on the level of the final grade of the road surface. that may run into some concrete. Not sure how wide the creek is. This is doable, but will take some planning. I plan better (I think) if I am studying the situation from a folding chair with my favorite frosty adult beverage

Are there any civil engineers here on TBN?

I am planning on doing it bank to bank. Before thinking through it completely, dug out a good section of the bank when removing some trees that were in the way last summer. I wish now I had just cut the trees out and left the bank packed nicely. It did give me good bobcat experience though after just purchasing it. The creek is not real wide, I posted a video a page or so back that may give you an idea. It stays mostly dry most of the time until a good rain comes.

Maybe I should try your method of planning:drink: It might give me a whole new perspective.

Thanks.

 

[Trafficman]

nrc17gto,

You'll need a big BH. :licking: Think of it as an investment. Use it until you're done, then sell it. You probably won't get as much as you paid for it but probably less than the cost of a rental & way more convenient. You'll save $$ by being able to work when you can.
Geothermal doesn't have to be vertical, horizontal works too. That BH can make a trench to lay your pipe in to get the BTUs you need to make it efficient. :2cents: Going deep saves footprint, but costs $$$, Going horizontal save $$$ but costs land. You can also look into solar hot water for radiant heat if you have a good southern exposure. Best to be a fairly good plumber though. :laughing: My sister has a place that we put solar and geothermal in her place in Berkley Springs, WV. She had to add a hot tub to help regulate the heating. :drool: My BX22 was hard pressed in those hills. LOTS of ROCKS, BIG ROCKS. Some as big as my truck. :shocked: Too big to move as is. Feather & wedges may be your friend too. :cool2:
Putting your electrical underground makes a lot of sense if you get any significant snow. :thumbsup: Especially if you're on a dead end line (you are), 1st to go out, last to be fixed. :mur: Putting it underground will protect that line from snow, ice, deadfall, & critters frying themselves across it. Not to mention being a pita to mow around pole & keep a 40ft ROW clear. HTH
T-Man

 

[ultrarunner]

Does the water company charge significantly more for 2" meter?

Where I am 5/8 and 3/4 run the same at $36 every two months.

A 2" meter is $154 every two months and considered commercial.

 

[grsthegreat]

Does the water company charge significantly more for 2" meter?

Where I am 5/8 and 3/4 run the same at $36 every two months.

A 2" meter is $154 every two months and considered commercial.

hmm, not sure , but here where i live its the same charge as the 1" meters. guess it all depends on local. i wouldn't understand why they would charge more, your paying for what water you use, not what meter you have. guess anyway they can charge more they will