My Stupidity kicked in at full throttle.

[BigBlue1]

Something like this could work:

View attachment 3025090

Amazon.com

A bit pricey but it might be a good one to have in the toolbox.

Having a slide hammer kit like this around is often worth its weight in gold, at least in preserving your sanity. Very useful. They can be had for under $100 and come with various attachment options.

 

[5030]

First off, I find it hard to believe that the OP put the shaft coupler on dry to begin with. You ALWAYS lubricate the stub shaft and coupler prior to installing it, ALWAYS and you NEVER beat it on. It should ALWAYS slide on easily.

Far as removing it off. I'd go with the slide hammer or ratchet strap but carefully as the stub shaft was never meant to absorb any pulling force and you can destroy the casting the shaft rides in easily and cracking the back cover casting, will cause your trans fluid to leak out and repairs won't be a cheap date either.

NEVER pound on anything on a tractor's output shaft. If it don't slide on easily, figure out why and correct it. Never beat anything on.

 

[5030]

Never figured out the advantage of using Kriol as a penetrant with PBlaster works better and is much cheaper. If you are really a cheapskate, use a 50-50 mixture of Acetone and red ATF in a spray bottle.

Kroil reminds me of Marvel Mystery Oil. Basically worthless stuff that is expensive.

 

[airbiscuit]

What type of PTO release does your mower have?
Are you 100% certain it isn't engaged/locked?

 

[bdhsfz6]

Never figured out the advantage of using Kriol as a penetrant with PBlaster works better and is much cheaper. If you are really a cheapskate, use a 50-50 mixture of Acetone and red ATF in a spray bottle.

Kroil reminds me of Marvel Mystery Oil. Basically worthless stuff that is expensive.

It's cheaper if you buy it in quantity.

 

[airbiscuit]

One benefit to chaining to a tree and driving forward with a jerk, is that is much easier to see the gears inside the tractor

 

[LouNY]

After making sure the release is released, constant tension and tapping will be the best way.
As far as lubricating the pto stub shaft or coupling joint I wouldn't recommend doing so all it will do is attract dirt and grit.

 

[jonsstihl]

the guy already admitted it was a stupid move in the title you don't need to rub it in. I vote for a ratchet strap with light tension and tapping with a hammer on the side of the yoke. like people have mentioned make sure the locking feature is not engaged.

 

[zzvyb6]

You are all asssssuming that he released the lock retainer (either a pin or a twist). If not, then it's gauled onto the pto stub shaft. If you yank it with a strap, you risk bending the tractor pto stub shaft. You need TWO symmetric pry bars. Otherwise, I'd slice it off and fit a new yoke onto the drive shaft. The cost of experience.

 

[BigBlue1]

You are all asssssuming that he released the lock retainer (either a pin or a twist). If not, then it's gauled onto the pto stub shaft. If you yank it with a strap, you risk bending the tractor pto stub shaft. You need TWO symmetric pry bars. Otherwise, I'd slice it off and fit a new yoke onto the drive shaft. The cost of experience.

Well, he did say in the initial post that "it went up about 1/4" from the locking groove". So apparently it was never locked on. Which is why, I believe, he was hesitant to even turn the PTO on.