Oil & Fuel My Used Oil Report

[RobJ]

There actually may be some merit to running an engine hard and letting it "rest"

Break in I agree, my "rest" comment was after the engine has plenty of hours on it. A engine is happiest running full load at operating temps and tractors have the injection pumps set for that. Over the road trucks, busses, etc are set for intermitting loads. Run them full bore and you'll over head it. The pumps can be turned up for more hp...

All the other stuff is only helping the owner feel good. Which there ain't nothing wrong with that either. Wow you really do that to a car?



ROb

 

[TalonDancer]

...Wow you really do that to a car?



ROb

I used to live in Houston and can remember when 529 was a straight run west of Hwy 6, through flat open farm land with the horizon broken only by the large grain silo just before Stockdick School Rd.. I've broken in and blown the cobwebs out of several of our cars at 6,000RPM in top gear on that stretch of road. I still own two of them

Talon Dancer

 

[crazyal]

Talon I agree with you. I've always broken in engines gradually and avoiding reving up the motor near the limit as well as varying the rmps some. I think you do need to get up to operating temp each time but no higher. Maybe it doesn't make a difference but you only get one chance at it (engine, transmission, drivetrain, pto, Hydraulic pump, etc.). I've had engines that have had the computer programed to limit itself for the 50 hours to take the guesswork out of how to break it in.

 

[crbr]

I used to live in Houston and can remember when 529 was a straight run west of Hwy 6, through flat open farm land with the horizon broken only by the large grain silo just before Stockdick School Rd.. I've broken in and blown the cobwebs out of several of our cars at 6,000RPM in top gear on that stretch of road. I still own two of them

Talon Dancer

Drive 'em like their stolen. Indeed.

 

[DiezNutz]

Ok you obviously have a big chip on your shoulder... I haven't been on this forum long enough the know if that is your modus operandi.
See PM. I'll admit that by all indications (or lack thereof), it seems there is no such mystery oil with Kubotas, but I've never heard a definitive answer firsthand from a Kubota factory rep (would love to though). Until then it's merely an assumption, and all the anecdotes in the world are just that. And it probably doesn't even matter because these things will still run thousands of hours, and we'll still be tickled to death that they did. So it isn't even worth arguing about.

I did not say it wasn't in any Honda manual- I did say it wasn't in any Honda manual I've ever read. Still a true statement....I was well aware John Deere uses a so called break-in oil, why wouldn't I be, I have over 50 of their engines at work as well as about 100 other diesels, mostly Isuzu, Cummins and Volvo. I said I'd love to hear of any manufacturers that use a so called break-in oil, still true....
Let's stop before it gets as far as what the definition of "is" is. I never claim to be any expert. I don't believe you are an expert either, maybe just a guy like me with his own plentiful experiences and opinions (not expert advice) to share. And you know what? There's nothing at all wrong with that.

 

[RobJ]

I used to live in Houston and can remember when 529 was a straight run west of Hwy 6, through flat open farm land with the horizon broken only by the large grain silo just before Stockdick School Rd.. I've broken in and blown the cobwebs out of several of our cars at 6,000RPM in top gear on that stretch of road. I still own two of them

Talon Dancer

You'll have to go a lot further out than that not, It's all homes and Cy-fair is up to about 6-7 high schools now.

Now explain cobwebs in a car.

 

[TalonDancer]

You'll have to go a lot further out than that not, It's all homes and Cy-fair is up to about 6-7 high schools now.

Now explain cobwebs in a car.

I drove out 529 a few years ago and couldn't believe the development. Gone are those long high speed runs through the rice fields

Many high performance gas engines build up "cob webs" (i.e. carbon on the surfaces in the combustion chamber) when they are used to trundle around in stop & go traffic. The early symptom is hesitation during acceleration at high RPM. Left uncleared it can lead to pre-detonation where the hot carbon ignites the fuel before the piston reaches the top of the stroke which is very hard on engines.

The cheapest cure is to accelerate smoothly to red line in 2nd gear until the hesitation goes away. Then do the same thing in the next higher gear. Etc. The more load, the faster the carbon is burned away. You can clear out 2nd and 3rd gear using rural freeway on ramps (e.g. 0-70mph ), but 4th and 5th will get you beyond the speed limit and prudent freeway driving quickly. So you either need a steep hill, a heavy trailer or a long straight away with no intersecting roads (AKA 529 in the 70s and early 80s).

BTW the alternative is pulling the heads and scraping the carbon off, which is what the shop suggested for our '01 last year for a mere $500 and change. I said no thanks, and took it out for cobweb clearing session. Once it could accelerate smoothly to redline in 5th I reset the OBD errors. That error has not occurred since

Talon Dancer

 

[DieselPower]

There are multiple different way's to remove carbon deposits from the combustion area. One of the neatest I ever saw was back when I worked at a Ford shop. They had a, well sand blaster type machine for a lack of better terms. It had a adaptor that screwed into the spark plug hole and blasted the cylinder clean (when at TDC of course) with crushed walnut shells. You know, it actually worked rather well.

The easiest and safest way to clean deposits from not only the combustion chamber but also off the back of valves and the intake system is to use a fuel additive. Fuel additive technology has come quite a way and you might be supprised just how effective some of them are.

 

[john_bud]

3M makes a 2 part spray to dissolve the carbon. Haven't seen it for a while. Then again, carbon on the pistons is typical of a '60's hot rod running a too big cam and idleing it. Surprised to hear about it in a FI car.


Oh, water injection will also clean the combustion chamber. Ever seen a chamber that had a head gasket leaking water into it? Clean enough to eat off.

 

[Skyco]

Oh, water injection will also clean the combustion chamber. Ever seen a chamber that had a head gasket leaking water into it? Clean enough to eat off.

That is a FACT
One of my sons popped a hose on an 88 Mazda pickup and overheated it warping the head. When I pulled the head to rebuild the engine the one piston that had water dumped to it looked brand spanking new BTW that was an amazing engine, had over 200,000 miles on it and the ORIGINAL cylinder crosshatching was still visible! Replaced the gunked up piston rings, ran a quickie ball hone down each cylinder to bust any glaze, checked the bearing clearances, had the head shaved and put it all back together, that fixed its oil useage (due to gunked up oil control rings not wear) and I swear that engine would have gone another 200k if an idiot driver hadn't hit the truck and totalled it