my version of a KK xb dump trailer

2manyrocks · Apr 30, 2011

Is this going to be an off road or on road dump trailer?

Could anyone direct me to Iplayfarmer's dump trailer?

The HF bandsaws do much better if you buy good blades and spend the time to align the saw.

600rider · Apr 30, 2011

2manyrocks, yes the intended use is mainly off road but with the automotive hubs and my camper wheels and tires I can take it on road if the need arises, but I will keep the wider garden tractor tires on it most of the time.

I do use what I think is a better grade of blade. I use Olsen blades from TSC and you are right if you take the time to set it up properly it will cut real nicely.

Here is the link to Iplayfarmers build. His is stricktly an off road trailer and is a looooong read but well worth it.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/87841-dump-trailer.html

sandman2234 · May 4, 2011

As I started reading this post, the first thing I noticed was that you needed to tie those two axles mounting brackets together to combine the strength, and keep the alignment in check. The last pictures you posted show that you have done just that, with the piece of rectangle tubing. Can't help with the requested information, because my dump trailer build was a little bigger than your project. (all dump trailers are not created equal, lol)
Keep up the good work!
David from jax

600rider · May 4, 2011

I haven't posted much in the last few days but thats because I have been working and figuring things out by trial and error which seems to have worked.

Thanks Sandman, I have figured out the cylnder placement by reading through Iplayfarmers build again :confused2: and read where he was advised to have atleast 15* angle on the cyl. when it was down and about 45* to 50* on the bed when in the dump possition. I have about 17* on the cyl. and about 48* on the bed in the up possition. I still think it sits too high but cannot/will not change it now. I mounted the stationary end of the cyl. between the upright for the axle but that didn't work because when I lifted the bed the suport jack would rise off the floor. I got on line and checked the pics for the KK xb and noticed that the cyl. actualy mounted infront of the axle so I went back and redid the mount so now the pin is about 4.5" in front of the axle. Now when it is raised it actualy pushes the tounge down. :thumbsup:

On Saturday when I was making the hinges I couldn't get it to dump right with hinge at the very rear of the bed as I didn't want the rear to dip down when the bed was raised so I went to my friends house to check out his Carmate dump trailer's hinge system and coppied that which ment I had to cut 7" off the back of the frame and moved the hinge forward which lets the rear dip down but I still have good ground clearance. In the end the problem was the result of where the cylnder was mounted not the design of the hinge but I am satisfied whith the hinge and as it turns out was a much simpler design than mine

easygo · May 4, 2011

Good looking trailer there. I also read the thread back when Iplayfarmer was still working on his trailer. Almost four years later I still have not found the time to build my own, but have most of the metal gathered.

What size hydraulic cylinder are you going to use and how are you going to power it?

600rider · May 4, 2011

I had ben gathering materials for that long too and finealy decided I had what I needed to get started.

"What size hydraulic cylinder are you going to use and how are you going to power it?"

I have a double acting 3"x18" with a 1 1/8" rod the cylnder was mounted on a machine and had no yokes on it so I had to make some and weld them on (I took the cylnder apart to do this)
Power will be from a 12volt power pack from a hyd. lift table the was being thrown out at work.

sandman2234 · May 5, 2011

Hinges on the "Ugly dump trailer" were "built by bridgeport"
David from jax

My deck doesn't quite go up as far as I really wanted it to, but I have never had anything on it that wouldn't dump, so I guess it is just barely enough. Since I primarily pull it with the tractor, I have the ability of being able to raise the tongue with the 3pt and also pulling forward makes things want to slide down the aluminum deck.
What are you going to use for a floor on the trailer? I used aluminum because I had it and so far it really has worked out great.
David

600rider · May 5, 2011

David, I am getting .090 steel for the deck and sides and it will have two beends on the top edge 1"x 1.5" then 18" to the deck. I work in a sheetmetal shop as a fabricator and have access to the shear to cut it and a press brake to bend it. We have .030, .060, .090, .125 and .179 thickness on hand at all times. I really wanted .075 thick but we don't have any so the .090 thick which is called 13 gauge is what I will use.

Rio_Grande · May 5, 2011

out of curriosity why not go thicker? Our manufactured trailer has .125 (1/8") and has only had gravel and wood hauled in it and it has a few waves. Course thicker material will weigh more.

600rider · May 5, 2011

Rio, I have an old trailer that I built about 20 years ago and just used .060 and it has held up very well. I didn't want the added weight or cost of thicker mtl. This dump trailer will out live me by decades! :laughing: