My Work Light Installation

[mjncad]

Dennis:

Are you going to put rubbers on the toggle switches?

I agree that glare shields would be a good thing on the forward facing lights at least.

 

[DennisFolsom]

Dennis:

Are you going to put rubbers on the toggle switches?

I agree that glare shields would be a good thing on the forward facing lights at least.

The switches were claimed to be waterproof. They have what appears to be a nylon ball at the base of the toggle. I keep the tractor indoors, except when I am using it. I think I won't bother with rubbers for them.

When I aimed the lights, I turned the front ones out and down a little. That helped a bit, but glare shields would help a lot more.

 

[jpm1]

Nice job on the lights. Gettting them up higher sure makes a difference

 

[JD230511]

Really nice job. I also am installing lights on my tractor. I'm taking notes and pictures. I will start a thread when it's done

 

[DennisFolsom]

I gave my work lights a good test tonight. I did a quick job of snow plowing before dark, then my wife and I went to a party. After we got home, I finished the plowing with the lights. They worked great!:thumbsup: I can see to the sides, my operator station is lit up, I can see to the rear. I can see as much of the bucket and the bucket roll indicator as I can in daylight. I can see well where my front wheels are, which helps as I run them up to the edge of the ditch.

If you snowplow in the dark without worklights, you would really appreciate the difference after you add them.

 

[Zebrafive]

My Work Light project is done - at least for now. I have a change I might make.



The one disappointment I did have was that when the tractor light switch is in the position that gives you flashers plus headlights, the work lights are not powered. They are only powered when the tractor switch is in the headlights and tail lights position. I would like to be able to run the flashers when the work lights are on. For that reason, I may run a separate wire and fuse back from the battery and power the work lights independently of the tractor light switch and wiring harness.

I would make this change, you might be drawing too much current for the headlight switch to handle with everything on. Unless there are relays used to power the lights and the headlight switch only powers the relays.

 

[DennisFolsom]

I would make this change, you might be drawing too much current for the headlight switch to handle with everything on. Unless there are relays used to power the lights and the headlight switch only powers the relays.

I looked at the wiring diagram in the JD Tech manual before. I'm quite sure their work light circuit is through its own relay. I know for sure that it has its own separate fuse.

 

[Green4310TLB]

Just did the same thing to my 4310 - sort of. I bought the light kit from Deere for $60 bucks I think (normally more then I would spend). However, the tractor is already prewired for the Kit - you find the connectors near the three point arms and simiply plug in. So I took the easy way out. However, pulling the wires thru the rops looked like a nightmare, so I ran them thru a clear vinyl hose on the outside of the rops and zip tied them to the rops.

One other thing, since I see your backhoe setting in the back ground... I have a habit of working past dark digging with mine, I installed the lights almost at the top of the rops. This way they are above my head when I am in the backhoe seat, if I turn to look off the tractor I do not get blinded, they also actually do a pretty good job lighting up the hole.

My two cents worth...

 

[woodlandfarms]

On my work lights, I went with "glueing" my wires to the rops. I purchased black silicone calk and then glued the wires down, I beaded the silicone over. It has held up quite well now for more than 4 years.

Carl