NAA ENGINE TROUBLE

[Soundguy]

Should be a constant straw sized stream.

You MIGHT have experienced a sticking solenoid contact that kept the starter engaged when you let off the thumb switch. Weak battery/dirty /bad connections can cause that.

 

[sashooter]

When I did get it started to run long enough to get to the garage I noticed the ammeter pegged at 30 amps. All the other times its at about 0-2 amps when its running. If the battery was discharged a little when they recharge is it normally that high of amps?

 

[Soundguy]

if the bat was discharged, and then it starts up.. then yeah.. short term high charge.

mor ecommon with an alternator.. gennies are hard to get to charge that high.

 

[sashooter]

If by chance the fuel tank has a bunch of rust, gunk, or whatever in it, what is the best way to clean them out?

 

[tmajor]

Remove tank, put a bunch of clean stones or nuts and bolts in it and shake it around, dump it out and redo, several times.

 

[sashooter]

if the bat was discharged, and then it starts up.. then yeah.. short term high charge.

mor ecommon with an alternator.. gennies are hard to get to charge that high.

I seen a list of napa ignition parts for the 134 cu in motor on here. I'm trying to find it. Could you post that. You had all the points, rotors, caps, plugs, standard ignition, higher end ignition parts, 6v coils, 12v coils, internal resister coils, and such.

Thanks

 

[Soundguy]

Side-Mount Distributor: 8n thru 4 cyl thousand series

gap points to .025

Points:
NAPA #CS749
NAPA HEAVY DUTY PIERCED (ventilated) #CS753
Standard Ignition #FD-8081
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-8081X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA66
Standard Ignition #FD-75
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD75X (Premium)
Rotor:
NAPA #FA67
Standard Ignition #FD-108
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA352
Standard Ignition #FD-128

side mount points hold down screws #8-32 X 3/16
FORD AUTOMOBILE dealer parts counter. come with built-in lockwasher. p/n 355047-S7 (#8-32 X 0.19)

All 4 cyl models can use AL-437 or champion H12 spark plugs instead of OEM Champion H10 or AL 216 plugs.

oil filter for the cartridge style is fram ch6pl or napa 1004

if it is a spin on conversion, then a motorcraft fl1a, fram pha8, napa 1452 or 1515, supertech st8a, etc..

i like 15w40 c/s rated oil.

any other help you need.

 

[sashooter]

Well I was able to do some trouble shooting on the tractor. As it was running fine , but would run like it was only running on 3 or 4 cylinders.
I did check for spark at the coil and it was good spark. I checked spark at spark plug one. That was bad spark. I checked under the cap and the rotor clip was missing. Was always missing since I got the tractor in May.

So I get new clip, rotor, and a new cap put it together and it still does the same thing. Next I pull a original plug wire off and check for continuity and resistance. No continuity or ohms on any of the original wires. I get new wires put them in and it still does the same thing. I get continuity on the new wires.

Next I check the timing. Redo it to what the manual says, and it doesn't run any better. Although I hope I did the timing right. That seemed tough to get exactly right. I don't really know what to check next. There is air bubbles in the sediment bowl. They are in there when you first start it when its cold. The tank seems clean. I took it off drained it looked at sediment filter and it was clean.

 

[Soundguy]

Ok, we are kinda shooting all over here... lets try to narrow down.

If you have bad spark, still, lets start there. You need good spark at each plug.

do we have that or not?

 

[sashooter]

I have good spark at the plugs now. It is bright white and blue. It jumps a bout a eighth of a inch from spark plug to the ground of tractor. The coil arcs about a quarter to three eighth of a inch to ground.