Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy.

[airbiscuit]

I think your comparison to performance mods in cars is apt. I doubt they would pass emissions standards and certainly are louder. Surprisingly, they actually run cooler because more gas flows through. Woods port mods are milder than full race mods. You get the power of a bigger saw, but not the weight. I think a woods ported saw would be as reliable as a stock saw.

I would recommend that you pose your question on the Arborist site's Hot Saws section. There are good folks on that forum (just like TBN) who will be happy to give you advice.


Modded Work Saws

 

[N80]

Thanks. My son-in-law’s older brother is deep into modding saws. Does a lot of it himself. Stihl only as far as I know. I can talk to him as well. But in all probability I won’t go down that rabbit hole. I will probably see him tomorrow so I’ll see what his thoughts are.

 

[airbiscuit]

Have your son in law's older brother bring some of his modded saws over for you to try!

 

[airbiscuit]

Here is the progression

• Buy a consumer grade saw
• Buy a professional grade saw
• Add a modded muffler
• Have it Woods Ported
• Get an alcohol burning / expansion chamber model

 

[airbiscuit]

Then this:

 

[airbiscuit]

If I could ever find one of these, I'd buy it in a minute - the Solo TWIN Chainsaw. Not fast by today's standards, but nothing else sounds like it!

 

[N80]

Hah hah. We've gone from just sharpen your existing saw for once all the way to two man saws with motorcycle engines.

I love TBN.

 

[dodge man]

The video of the guy cutting with the ported saw is a little bit staged. I cut large rounds in half like that to get up on my splitter. I don’t know why but the wood cuts much easier like that, I’ve seen it called noodling. If your chain is sharp you get long shavings.

 

[sd455dan]

I guess this is catching...

I have 3 saws 2 modded Husky 350's with different bars plus dads old Promac 70cc, and just decided to to play "build a saw" over the winter with one of the Farmertec 660 clones for the bigger stuff if needed. Haven't received the parts kit yet- but should be nice to have the power a 92cc saw can provide.
Never got much into putting puzzle pictures or cross word puzzles together, But an erector set, yeah that sounds fun

 

[Skeans1]

Here’s a 500i full comp square running a 36” light weight bar

Then one of my 395’s running a 36 with a fresh a little bit on the grabby side on the undercut square chain as well.

I’d rather pack the 500i any day of the week but if I needed to make money with only one saw everyday I’d pickup a 395 even over a Stihl 066/660/661 they’re a better saw all around.

 

[i7win7]

Due to a shoulder injury I can no longer pull start a chainsaw. I purchased a Stihl MSA 160C when it fist came out. 12" bar and have used it on up to 15" trees (not smartest thing to due). 1 of 3 woodpiles

I also needed a larger light weight saw, ordered the MSA 220C-B, 18" bar in April - still waiting. Purchased an Oregon A/C powered saw with 20" bar. (around $70) About 3,000 rpm slower than the "racing" saws in prior post. Portable generator and 100' cord makes an A/C saw portable. Here's one of the dead trees I needed to fall, very few escape routes when on hillside and a cheap saw is more expendable than the ported, tuned, supercharged racers.

 

[fishdrivel]

Actually that is a valid question that no one here can answer and maybe I can't either. I sharpen the chain regularly as mentioned. But is my technique good? I don't know. The Stihl jig makes it hard to get wrong and I was decent with a just a file in years past. The electric sharpener is all set up in a fixed position and it does no better than the Stihl sharpener.

When I start sawing it cuts like a champ. Fast, clean and straight. But even after those three pines it was getting slower.

So maybe I know enough to get it sharp but not enough to put an edge on it that will stay on it? I doubt it but it might be possible.

Have you checked the rakers on the chain? If the chain teeth are sharp and it is barely cutting, your rakers may need to be filed.
They make a guage to check them. I always used a small flat file to adjust the raker height.

Is the inside of your bar worn?

how to file chainsaw chain rakers - Video Search Results

The search engine that helps you find exactly what you're looking for. Find the most relevant information, video, images, and answers from all across the Web.

video.search.yahoo.com

 

[N80]

Have you checked the rakers on the chain? If the chain teeth are sharp and it is barely cutting, your rakers may need to be filed.
They make a guage to check them. I always used a small flat file to adjust the raker height.

Is the inside of your bar worn?

how to file chainsaw chain rakers - Video Search Results

The search engine that helps you find exactly what you're looking for. Find the most relevant information, video, images, and answers from all across the Web.

video.search.yahoo.com

Yes, the rakers are the right height. I mostly use the Stihl sharpening tool that several people have linked to. It sharpens the teeth and files the rakers at the same time.

The bar is in good shape.

As mentioned, there is nothing wrong with the Farm Boss. It does what it is designed to do very well. I keep the chain sharp.

Yesterday I had to clear several birch type trees that beavers had dropped on a path. They were 10-12” in diameter. The saw handles jobs like this quickly and with ease. No extra effort required.

As mentioned, the issue is with felling trees that are 20” or more in diameter and bucking oaks that are 25-30” in diameter. It has and can do those sorts of things. Just not with ease or without extra effort.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I have a farm boss 290 and do it all with 1 saw. Would love to have a light saw also, but I rarely use this saw.

 

[mark48]

A sharp steel chain will cut circles around a carbide chain. Cutting stuff besides wood will quickly destroy either chain and the carbide takes special equipment to sharpen.

You must be dreaming.....the cutter profile is exactly the same and the carbide will outlast HSS many times over. As for sharpening yeah it takes special equpment but I have yet to need resharpening and I have felled and cut up a **** ton of dead ash.

 

[4570Man]

You must be dreaming.....the cutter profile is exactly the same and the carbide will outlast HSS many times over. As for sharpening yeah it takes special equpment but I have yet to need resharpening and I have felled and cut up a **** ton of dead ash.

Carbide will not sharpen to as sharp of an edge as steel that’s fact. Yes under normal use carbide will outlast steel but if you hit imbedded gravel or metal either chain is very quickly dulled. And you’re wrong about the profile. Carbide is more blunt than a steel chain.

 

[John_Mc]

Carbide will not sharpen to as sharp of an edge as steel that’s fact. Yes under normal use carbide will outlast steel but if you hit imbedded gravel or metal either chain is very quickly dulled.

Exactly.

There were (maybe still are?) some folks making chain that was something like carbide impregnated steel. This allowed them to get a similar cutting edge profile as the steel chain, but it lost much of the longevity of a true carbide tip on the cutters (while still ruining an ordinary file if you tried to use it to resharpen). The true carbide tipped cutters can't be made to the same profile - carbid needs a bit of bulk behind it to avoid chipping or shattering.

If your true carbide-tipped chain cuts as fast as your steel chain, you've got a problem with your steel chain.

 

[4570Man]

If your true carbide-tipped chain cuts as fast as your steel chain, you've got a problem with your steel chain.

Exactly. If Mark put a new steel chain on his saw he’d be blown away with the performance.

 

[fishdrivel]

You must be dreaming.....the cutter profile is exactly the same and the carbide will outlast HSS many times over. As for sharpening yeah it takes special equpment but I have yet to need resharpening and I have felled and cut up a **** ton of dead ash.

I was a very good arborist and my saws would cut with the best.
I never used carbide chains. Thet were used for folks cutting stumps or roots or other dirty wood.
A professionally sharpened steel chain will outcut carbide or even new factory chains.

 

[MossRoad]

Not picking sides. Just sharing some info from Stihl...
Enjoy!