Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy.

[Rockbadchild]

I have no need for a more finicky chain regardless of its performance benefits. I'm a weekend warrior at best.

And in that regard, for the range of work I'll be doing (felling smaller trees, limbing, bucking, clean up of downed trees and stumps) even the off-the-shelf round ground full chisel is an experiment. My chain will invariably hit the ground from time to time. If it dulls too easily I'll go back to the homeowner semi-chisel chains.....which dull easily enough.

For now I'm using the 025 for limbing and close to the ground work. It has a 16" bar (I think I had said it was 18" before). I'll keep the semi-chisel chain on it. The MS271 will be mostly for bucking and some limbing. For now I like the round ground full chisel. We'll see how long it stays sharp and whether or not I can keep it out of the dirt.

For me, the only question that remains is will I eventually want/need a 60-70cc saw. My son-in-law isn't always going to be there when I want or need to drop a larger tree (for me large is 20+ inches and 80-100 feet). Yes, discretion is the better part of valor sometimes but that could be said about many of the things I'm still capable of doing. I'm not in a hurry and I'm not itching for a new toy at this point.

for you only question remaining, when you have a perfectly sharpen chain with your current saw and chopping a 18 inch diameter log or so are you frustrated with it ? do you think its slow and running out of power ? if yes to both question then yes get a bigger one if not the keep your saw I dont think anyone can answer this question for you... I know you would like a bigger bar and for 20 inch plus threes I can understand and it will slow down your current saw if you put a bigger bar on it .... I know personally I grew up using my dad chainsaw a 75cc saw and its amazing I love it despite being heavy but I love when you squeeze the gas and the bar get up by itself. When I bought my first saw it was a 35cc it was hauling around on the quad and such but I couldn't stand it I've cut one one three with it and I was ready to throw that thing as far as I could that thing is in my garage still brand new... so I went and bout a 50cc one on a 16inch bar I am content with I like the light weight of it but it could be a bit more powerful but for what I do with it its fine for me. If id put a bigger bar on it id probably get frustrated with it tho.

 

[N80]

for you only question remaining, when you have a perfectly sharpen chain with your current saw and chopping a 18 inch diameter log or so are you frustrated with it ? do you think its slow and running out of power ? if yes to both question then yes get a bigger one if not the keep your saw I dont think anyone can answer this question for you... I know you would like a bigger bar and for 20 inch plus threes I can understand and it will slow down your current saw if you put a bigger bar on it .... I know personally I grew up using my dad chainsaw a 75cc saw and its amazing I love it despite being heavy but I love when you squeeze the gas and the bar get up by itself. When I bought my first saw it was a 35cc it was hauling around on the quad and such but I couldn't stand it I've cut one one three with it and I was ready to throw that thing as far as I could that thing is in my garage still brand new... so I went and bout a 50cc one on a 16inch bar I am content with I like the light weight of it but it could be a bit more powerful but for what I do with it its fine for me. If id put a bigger bar on it id probably get frustrated with it tho.

MY MS271 is a decent 50cc saw. I saw a video where they dyno'ed non-pro level 50cc saws and the MS271 was the most powerful in its class for whatever that might be worth. But with some of the things I do it tends to be slightly under powered and a 20" bar just not quite long enough. Yes, I admit that it is possible to do what I want to do using the MS271. Just not ideal. Three things keep me from buying a bigger saw: 1) As mentioned, I can make the MS271 do these 'bigger' jobs. 2) The things I need a bigger saw for are fairly infrequent at this point. 3) Right now, there are other things I'd prefer to do with $700-$1000.

If milling logs on the new sawmill turns out to be something I'm going to do a lot and harvesting some of my bigger pines becomes a regular thing then I might bite.

Plus, and most folks here will admit it, it is a fine thing when you have just the right tool for the job. One of the finer pleasures in life if you ask me.

 

[John_Mc]

I have no need for a more finicky chain regardless of its performance benefits. I'm a weekend warrior at best.

Pretty much why I don't mess with square ground chain. I'm not doing this to pay the mortgage or put food on the table, so the marginal increase in performance doesn't mean that much to me. Plus, I enjoy hand filing while working in the woods. I won't always notice when I'm getting tired/dehydrated/hungry, but I will notice a dull chain immediately. Stopping to sharpen forces me to slow down and take stock and take care of myself as well.

 

[N80]

Pretty much why I don't mess with square ground chain. I'm not doing this to pay the mortgage or put food on the table, so the marginal increase in performance doesn't mean that much to me. Plus, I enjoy hand filing while working in the woods. I won't always notice when I'm getting tired/dehydrated/hungry, but I will notice a dull chain immediately. Stopping to sharpen forces me to slow down and take stock and take care of myself as well.

Good points!

 

[hornett22]

I run a Husky 550xp and a 572xp. Love them both. 572 is amazing.

If I could only have one saw, it would be a 562xp

 

[John_Mc]

I run a Husky 550xp and a 572xp. Love them both. 572 is amazing.

If I could only have one saw, it would be a 562xp

If we still had a Husqvarna servicing dealer in my area, I probably would have already retired my 357XP and gotten a 562XP. We have some local guys who work on chainsaws who are pretty good, but they can't do any of the software/computer stuff.

 

[CADplans]

I wanted a new saw before this storm, researched the Stihl's,,
I was hung between the MS391 and a MS261C-M,,
Well, I picked up both, and told the guy that I would take the 261C-M,,
it was that simple.

THERE was THAT much difference in weight,, it was radical,, to me.
I knew I would not run the MS391 much if I bought that one,, it is heavy.

The MS391 is a homeowners big horsepower saw, at a cheap price,,
The penalty is weight.

I think the MS261C-M has the same HP,, but, it felt 20% lighter.
The MS261C-M is the "entry level" professional saw.
The MS261 is a narrower profile saw,, also,
it will fit into tighter spaces.

IMHO, the MS261C-M is a beast,, to me,,
My other saw is a Stihl 029 Super,, also a nice saw,,

The 029 Super did not seem to be running right,,
it is so old, I was afraid of wasting money trying to get it serviced.
I asked the Stihl guy if they had an air filter,, he went and looked,
I got the last one they had,, that may help my 029,,, ??

 

[hornett22]

If we still had a Husqvarna servicing dealer in my area, I probably would have already retired my 357XP and gotten a 562XP. We have some local guys who work on chainsaws who are pretty good, but they can't do any of the software/computer stuff.

Husqvarna is the underdog around here but it's what I like. Maybe I'm lucky but I never have issues. I use them a lot, use good fuel, keep the chains sharp, keep them fairly clean with compressed air. I haven't taken anything in for service yet. I've got their saws, blowers,hedge trimmers and pole saw.

 

[KiotiKowboy]

I own 2 Husqvarna 455 Ranchers. The 2nd was laying in a friends shed for years and may have never been used. He gave it to a few months back. I've had the other one for years and it has been flawless ... with the exception of the chain brake.

I think I'm going to drop both of them off for service this spring just for grins.

 

[Skeans1]

If we still had a Husqvarna servicing dealer in my area, I probably would have already retired my 357XP and gotten a 562XP. We have some local guys who work on chainsaws who are pretty good, but they can't do any of the software/computer stuff.

I’ve had a 555 since 2012 I think and a 562 since 2013 neither of them have missed a beat. You’ve seen some of the pictures of the abuse I’ve put them through over the years it’s a hard saw to honestly not try.

 

[CADplans]

Here is something to think about when choosing a "LARGER" saw,,

I just purchased a saw with a smaller HP,, but,,
the smaller saw has a .325 chain, compared to a slightly larger saw with a 3/8 chain.

From what I read, the .325 chain is pulling out narrower groove of wood,
THAT should take less power.

So, it is possible that a lower HP saw can cut identically to a higher HP,,
if the chain makes the saw work less hard,,

 

[CADplans]

Here is a bit of a "Blurb" on the difference between the two chain sizes,,

"There are two types of chains and they do two different types of jobs. The .325 and three-eighths (.375) pitches pertain to the spacing between the rivets. That spacing is important when you are cutting.
The .325 is a smaller top cutter and tie strap, which makes it easier for the saw to turn
and draw less energy, particularly from the user.
It holds enough horsepower to get through most jobs with relative ease. It tends to work better with small saws that have a high RPM because it causes less drag.

The three-eighths chain is a beefier saw and better suited to one that has more horsepower. It has larger teeth and a heavier duty chain, so it requires more horsepower to operate correctly. Older saws tend to have a three-eighths chain and tends to be less expensive than its newer cousin."

 

[JDZ735M]

Here is a bit of a "Blurb" on the difference between the two chain sizes,,

"There are two types of chains and they do two different types of jobs. The .325 and three-eighths (.375) pitches pertain to the spacing between the rivets. That spacing is important when you are cutting.
The .325 is a smaller top cutter and tie strap, which makes it easier for the saw to turn
and draw less energy, particularly from the user.
It holds enough horsepower to get through most jobs with relative ease. It tends to work better with small saws that have a high RPM because it causes less drag.

The three-eighths chain is a beefier saw and better suited to one that has more horsepower. It has larger teeth and a heavier duty chain, so it requires more horsepower to operate correctly. Older saws tend to have a three-eighths chain and tends to be less expensive than its newer cousin."

Interesting info! Thanks!

 

[hornett22]

The 562xp has gone through several updates. It's pretty bulletproof at this point. It's a fantastic saw. Very smooth. Great power delivery.

 

[hornett22]

Here is a bit of a "Blurb" on the difference between the two chain sizes,,

"There are two types of chains and they do two different types of jobs. The .325 and three-eighths (.375) pitches pertain to the spacing between the rivets. That spacing is important when you are cutting.
The .325 is a smaller top cutter and tie strap, which makes it easier for the saw to turn
and draw less energy, particularly from the user.
It holds enough horsepower to get through most jobs with relative ease. It tends to work better with small saws that have a high RPM because it causes less drag.

The three-eighths chain is a beefier saw and better suited to one that has more horsepower. It has larger teeth and a heavier duty chain, so it requires more horsepower to operate correctly. Older saws tend to have a three-eighths chain and tends to be less expensive than its newer cousin."

I run an 18" bar with the .325 chain on my 550xp. I run a 24" bar and 3/8 chain on my 572xp.

Years ago I ordered the second generation 346xp when they first came out. They were very hard to get so my dealer's rep got me a Euro model with a small mount 24" bar that used .325 chain. That was a sweet setup. Really a back saver for limbing. I wish I knew what I did with that bar. Can't find one anywhere. It was the replaceable sprocket nose bar.

 

[hornett22]

If we still had a Husqvarna servicing dealer in my area, I probably would have already retired my 357XP and gotten a 562XP. We have some local guys who work on chainsaws who are pretty good, but they can't do any of the software/computer stuff.

I've had both mine for a couple years. Never been back for any service.

 

[Hermio]

Almost a year ago, I bought a Stihl MS500i. It is the least fatiguing saw I have used. Not just because it is light for its power, but because it cuts fast and has a broad torque band. I am a "senior citizen" also.

 

[Raul-02]

I'm 58 years old and I'm in decent but not excellent physical condition. Average strength I would say.

I am not a chainsaw guy. In other words, I've been using decent consumer Stihl chainsaws all my life but I don't know anything about cc's, chain types, tuning, modding etc etc. Primary use has been yard and property cleanup as well as cutting firewood. I have the proper safety gear and a solid understanding of basic chainsaw safety.

But now I have ordered a saw mill. It should be here in a few weeks. It can handle up to 26" diameter trees.

My primary saw is a Stihl Farm Boss with a 20" bar. I don't remember which one but it is about 3 years old, bought new and was the larger of the Farm Boss saws. In my mind I'm thinking 350 but it might be a 271. I don't even know if the Farm Boss came in a 350. Anyway, it is a decent saw. I suspect it is a consumer level saw with a "farm" designation for marketing.

This weekend I felled several pines that were around 12 inches in diameter. The Farm Boss was okay but not great. I also recently cut up a much larger oak blow down (probably 25ish diameter) and the Farm Boss struggled a lot.

So I am going to be felling larger trees than 12" pines in the near future. My son-in-law will be there most of the time (we'll own the saw mill together). He has a big tuned pro-level Stihl. He has a good bit of felling experience. But I feel like I need a bigger saw for myself. I'm thinking 25-28" bar.

I'm not really looking for brand recommendations.

What I need to know is what I can get for this job that is: 1) Reasonably light. (Again, I'm 58). 2) Appropriately powered for cutting down large but not huge trees. 3) Reasonably safe for my age and experience and 4) What type of chain for my age and experience from a safety vs efficiency standpoint.

Any basic advice much appreciated.

P.S.: Not too interested in modding or tuning a saw.

I'm in my 60s I have a 30" bar on a Stihl 440 Magnum that's my go-to saw for the woodlot and felling.
I have an older Stihl 036 with a 20" bar. That saw is a dream to use and I have a little Echo that was my tree climbing saw I use that for limbing and such after I fell a tree.

 

[Garandman]

When we got an Alaska mill, purchased a used MS461 with 28” bar.

 

[sd455dan]

I run an 18" bar with the .325 chain on my 550xp. I run a 24" bar and 3/8 chain on my 572xp.

Years ago I ordered the second generation 346xp when they first came out. They were very hard to get so my dealer's rep got me a Euro model with a small mount 24" bar that used .325 chain. That was a sweet setup. Really a back saver for limbing. I wish I knew what I did with that bar. Can't find one anywhere. It was the replaceable sprocket nose bar.

The 346XP NE with a good woods port, reduced squish, Muffler mod and a reduced weight 18 inch bar and sharp chain would still be right up there for a really light, Powerful, Screamer, "firewood" saw.
ah, What do I know- I still like carbs.