Need Help. Front Mount Snow Blower Question

[moship]

Those with front mounted snow blowers on L Series tractors. Reference L3130tractor and quick hitch L2180.

Do you still have the Grill Guard attached when mounting the Quick Hitch? I have seen pictures with the grill guard in place, but on my tractor there is interference (see photo). My grill guard has a metal support that prevents the quick hitch from going inside the grill guard (see attachment). Is there a different grill guard available for use with the quick hitch or does the grill guard has to be modified (cut the support bracing from grill guard).

I do not have instructions on how to mount the quick hitch and working blind, so I need your help.

Yes, I know I can remove the grill guard or cut the bracing off the grill guard. I just want to understand what Kubota recommends and what others had to do.

Just sold my rear snow blower and this needs to get on ASAP.

 

[leonz]

Remove the grill guard and reinstall it in the summer season as you want t protect the motor compartment anyway as a priority.

The snow thrower frame will not allow it to raise properly with all the metal in the way.

I think a lot this is because of the tire size and clearances as a narrow mudder crop tire and large diameter rim with a taller hieght has a greater ground clearance.

edit: once you remove the grill guard the quick hitch should mount directly in the nose of the frame with matching holes- be sure to use nylock nuts or the blue "Loctite".

edit: do you have suitcase wieghts that mount on the grill guard?

 

[nybirdman]

I had a sub-frame on a L3130(for a plow but same for blower),you must remove grill guard.Two bolts not a biggy.

 

[crazyal]

The smaller framed Grand Ls (3240, 3540, 3940) can have the guard attached but on my 4240 in needs to come off. If you are having problems trying to make it work, leave it off. Just put some anti-seize on the threads of the bolts since you'll be removing them twice a year.

 

[moship]

Thanks for the quick response.

I ended up removing the grill guard, but it was frustrating as I spent too much time mounting the QH bracket and grill guard before hand. Only to realize I'd have to take it off. It is difficult holding both of these heavy parts and trying to get the bolt started. Used some ratchet straps from the raised FEL to hold both brackets in place.

I already have the grill guard removed and the front pins in the QH. Now I have to figure out how the back mounts and get the length of the QH correct... Then modify the fixed drive shaft. This QH came off a L4330 and therefore has a longer fixed drive shaft.

In a private message some one said they had to cut the bracket off the grill guard to make it work. I'll do that later when I have more time.

Oh, and anit-seeze is my friend.


Any tricks to mounting the back of the QH or adjusting to the proper lenght?

Leonz:
The nuts are welded behind the frame. Am I using the wrong mounting holes? There are two others, but then the bottom two bolt holes in the QH bracket could not be used. No I do not have the suitcase weights. Do they hang off the brace I'll be cutting off in a few months?

Thanks again

 

[kevinj]

Remove the grill guard and reinstall it in the summer season as you want t protect the motor compartment anyway as a priority.

The snow thrower frame will not allow it to raise properly with all the metal in the way.

I think a lot this is because of the tire size and clearances as a narrow mudder crop tire and large diameter rim with a taller hieght has a greater ground clearance.

edit: once you remove the grill guard the quick hitch should mount directly in the nose of the frame with matching holes- be sure to use nylock nuts or the blue "Loctite".

edit: do you have suitcase wieghts that mount on the grill guard?

YUP, either use the hitch mount or the guard. This means changing over twice per year.

MO, You also really need to get a manual, mounting that hitch and adjusting it out properly is a bit beyond an internet forum. Even with the manual in front of you it may take a couple tries to to get the mounting down!!!!!!!!!!

However if you sit back and study the thing it is really quite simple.

 

[kevinj]

Thanks for the quick response.

I already have the grill guard removed and the front pins in the QH. Now I have to figure out how the back mounts and get the length of the QH correct...

Oh, and anit-seeze is my friend.


Any tricks to mounting the back of the QH or adjusting to the proper lenght?

Thanks again

I will tell you that you mount the BACK first and you jockey the thing with the hydraulics.

To give any better info you will need to post some more pics of the whole setup and how you are trying to mount it.

 

[leonz]

I think the grill guard does 2 jobs holds the wieghts and protects the front end.

You can Send Art White or Neil Messick a PM and double check with them about it though too.


If those nuts are welded to the inner part of the tractor frame they should not come off.

If you have corresponding holes in the QA mount I would assume you can use the same bolts.


As much as I hate front mount attachments-
its always easiest to mount the under frame first attaching it to the axle hangers if this model has them so the entire *&^%&*() is aligned as mentioned.

 

[leonz]

UMMMM are you leaving the loader frame on???????.......................:drool:

 

[moship]

Kevinj,

Manual: The dealer where I got the snow blower from could not get the instructions for the quick mount (L2180). It was used, but off a L4330 so I just need to shorten the overall length. With the large pins holding the front of the hitch for a fixed position, I adjusted the length to allow clearance around the mid PTO casting and to make certain it was not to long at the draw bar end. I might have to make adjustments once the snow blower is on, but I'll figure it out.

During the summer I'll modify the grill guard so both can be attached simulataneously or I'll custom make a guard. I am not into taking it on and off.

I thought there may be a way to attach the draw bar end first, but wasn't certain if the hydraulics could provide sufficient height to insert the pins. I am really surprised these pins do not have a large chamfer to facilitate insertion.

Where did everyone mount the switch for the chute deflector?

 

[leonz]

A couple of the folks use a flor jack for the underframes on the B3030 and the L's too from what I remember.

If you have a bench grinder you can bevel it a little depending upon how far the linch pin or hair spring pin holes are.

 

[kevinj]

A couple of the folks use a flor jack for the underframes on the B3030 and the L's too from what I remember.

If you have a bench grinder you can bevel it a little depending upon how far the linch pin or hair spring pin holes are.

On the L all that is needed is one short 4x4, let the machine do the work.

 

[moship]

Leonz,

I must have been writing when you responded earlier.

Yes, I plan on leaving the loader sub frame on. The subframe for the backhoe attaches to it. Let us say that with all the subframes under my tractor it is well protected.

2) This does not have the axle brackets. The rear is held in place by the drawbar (push it inward).

3) Floor jack in the front is a pain. It wants to slide off. If I can not use the hydraulics to lift it in place, I will make something or weld a detail on to facilitate lifting with a jack. At this point I just want to get it on.

4) I am good at modifying so the chamfer is no big deal. I just get frustrated when the design engineers do not think about how the customer is going to use it.

 

[kevinj]

Kevinj,

Manual: The dealer where I got the snow blower from could not get the instructions for the quick mount (L2180). It was used, but off a L4330 so I just need to shorten the overall length. With the large pins holding the front of the hitch for a fixed position, I adjusted the length to allow clearance around the mid PTO casting and to make certain it was not to long at the draw bar end. I might have to make adjustments once the snow blower is on, but I'll figure it out.

During the summer I'll modify the grill guard so both can be attached simulataneously or I'll custom make a guard. I am not into taking it on and off.

I thought there may be a way to attach the draw bar end first, but wasn't certain if the hydraulics could provide sufficient height to insert the pins. I am really surprised these pins do not have a large chamfer to facilitate insertion.

Where did everyone mount the switch for the chute deflector?

Mo,

If the thing is set up right the front pins slide in easy and the middle pin sockets are adjustable.

I do not understand your concerns.

Look at my avatar, I do have one of these and have some idea how it works, I even assembled it from the crate myself.

Your dealer should be able to order the manual. :confused2:I would think that they have info there as they must service this stuff.

You need manual 70060-04542

I am putting up a few pages I had scanned some time back

 

[kevinj]

UMMMM are you leaving the loader frame on???????.......................:drool:

Loader sub frame stays on, but the loader must be removed:thumbsup:

 

[moship]

Kevinj,

Thanks for posting the pdf files. They are a big help! I realize I need the manual, but the Kubota dealer I got the frame & blower sounded like they were going to supply and then said they couldn't get the instructions, so it put me behind the eight ball ordering one for this weekend from my local dealer.

Where did you mount the switch for the chute deflector? I'm thinking about mounting it in or near the 3-pt lever cover.

I also see I need to buy a drawbar. I will use 1" x 2" box tubing I have laying around.

Is the manual you referenced only for the subframe or is it part of the snow blower manual?

What size blower do you have?

Thank again for your help!

 

[kevinj]

Kevinj,

Thanks for posting the pdf files. They are a big help! I realize I need the manual, but the Kubota dealer I got the frame & blower sounded like they were going to supply and then said they couldn't get the instructions, so it put me behind the eight ball ordering one for this weekend from my local dealer.

Where did you mount the switch for the chute deflector? I'm thinking about mounting it in or near the 3-pt lever cover.

I also see I need to buy a drawbar. I will use 1" x 2" box tubing I have laying around.

Is the manual you referenced only for the subframe or is it part of the snow blower manual?

What size blower do you have?

Thank again for your help!

My chute is hydraulic.

That drawbar needs to be solid steel. The holes are drilled to fit the snowblower plus allow for other adjustments.

Best to buy one from Kubota unless your dealer will let you measure one up.

Manual scans are for subframe only, not much to the blower

Blower is 6'

 

[bitseeker]

The posted PDFs look like the same instructions for the 6' blower on our GL5240. We bought tractor, quick hitch, and blower new from our dealer, and had them assemble, install, and test everything. Apparently they did not read the manual, because when I went to install the quick hitch before snow, it was too long to bare against the drawbar which is intended to accept the axial force of the blower. They must have not used the drawbar when they adjusted the QH length. Reading the instructions, I realized that my 1/2" torque wrench would not produce the required 297 ft-lb at the center joint that sets the length. (Thats in the third bullet in step 6, on page 20.)

I called the dealer, explained my lack of tools, and the dealer came to check. I think they thought I was nuts. It proved fortunate, because those 297 ft-lb bolts came loose with LOTs less torque than that. If left as-delivered, or with the drawbar one hole back or out (as the dealer suggested) the force would have come out on the front mount and possibly damaged the tractor.

The reason I write is to suggest you ensure the length-adjustment bolts are correctly tightened.

The dealer's tech agreed the QH was set too long, and he did torque to the spec with a 3/4" wrench. The blower works great. You will love yours!

 

[moship]

bitseeker,

Thanks for sharing your experience. I noticed the same thing about the torque values. I'm going to recheck the length and then drive home the bolts with a 3/4" impact gun.

Others:
The driveshaft is cut to length and welded. Just waiting for the paint to dry. The electrical switch for the chute deflector is installed and the wires to the front are wire-tied in place.

Getting close, but need to do some other non-tractor activities.