Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most

Casco1 · Feb 9, 2005

Freds, I've come a ways since I started this thread back in Sept. I've installed 5 - 55 watt lamps on my CUT I have two Trapezoidal beam lights on the front of my canopy and two more on the back I was concerned about the draw from the lights so I installed a three point switch forward for the front lights back to run the rears, all four lights could not run at the same time (boy am I smart). This is when I realize that when doing FEL work at night I would need to back up (not so smart afterall) so instead of rerunning wires I installed a fifth light, spot type, between the other two on it's own switch. I've since used the tractor several times this winter moving snow and am very happy with the setup. Hope this helps

Freds · Feb 9, 2005

Uh, thanks for the offer on the fog lights, Bob. I think /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Casco, what are trapezoidal lights? Do they fall into a category such as flood or spot?
I take it that you mostly run the 2-forward and 1-rear light... Are the factory lights or flashers on at the same time?

I know I went through a bunch of light posts here and one poster had a pair of lights for something like $175 that he mounted. This isn't exactly the direction I wanted to go /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
I found a lot of off road lights on Ebay for around $50 for 4-55w lights and wiring harness. I can't remember what pattern of beam they had, only that it wasn't a geometric figure... I figured I could at least use the wire that comes with them, but not the switch. I was going to try to head into town tomorow and see what the local chain autoparts store has to offer for comparison. I have a piece of aluminum angle iron being delivered tomorrow that I'll cut down for the bracket.

It's all coming together /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

curt1 · Feb 9, 2005

I am by no means an expert at electrical work. I do know that my alternator is 40 amp on my L3130. And that I do have two 55W lights from Tractor Supply. I used 12 gauge wire for my lights if that means anything.
The Grand L series Cab models have a 60 amp alternator. They come standard with 2 front work lights and optional 2 rear work lights. If you trace the wires on my L3130 from the fuse box to the green plug at the right side of the seat below the PTO lever, it has a 7.5 amp fuse in the work light section. Work light is printed on the fuse box cover where the fuse is located.
Now, I may should have only wired one rear work light, as I am no expert on this...wish I were. All I know is that it has worked so far with no problems at all. Maybe I should call Kubota on this and ask them??
Does anyone with electrical experience have any advice here?

Thanks,
Curt

surfran · Feb 10, 2005

If it's working, I wouldn't worry too much about it. If it blows the fuse, I would just change your fuse to a 15A and be done with it. 12 ga wire will handle it no problem.

As pointed out by Soundguy above, you may be getting away with this because of a slow blow fuse or a slightly higher than 12V from your alternator, but in either case you are at the very top end or over your fuse rating so it will probably blow sooner or later.

On my unit I was running 3 55 w off from one 15A fuse and it finally blew as well as slightly melted the inline fuse holder. I have since removed one light from the circuit.

Soundguy · Feb 10, 2005

I like the trapezoidal pattern ( even if it is a round lamp shell.. etc.. ).

Wide beam.. decent light...

Soundguy

Casco1 · Feb 11, 2005

I bought my lights from Northern Tool about $20 each. They're not high end lamps but they're more than satisfactory for me, I get good distance and overlap. I'll try to explain trapezoidal beams if I can spotlights are just what the name says a direct and narrow beam with good distance, floodlights send out a wide beam but not for a great distance. Trapezoidal again, like the name says sends out a wide triangular shaped beam without sacrificing distance, with two of these you have an excellent overlap mine are actually angled out a bit to give a wider beam. I've had no problems with power I have an L3710 with the 40 amp alt. I have been running with my headlights and flashers no problems.

Freds · Feb 12, 2005

Thanks, I'll check them out.

Red_rider · Feb 14, 2005

If you have a TSC nearby, you might want to check there for lights. I put two trapezoidal facing forward (55w) and two floods facing rear (55w). I paid about $15 per light. As far as switches, etc. go2marine has the best selection.

Freds · Feb 15, 2005

I hunted down 4 lights at two Autozones. Apparently they only stock two at a time called tractor lights, which are the ones with the trapezoid beam pattern. Picked up some wire and plastic flex conduit. Looked at some switches at the local Carquest and found the same thing cheaper at the local hardware store. It's a toggle switch with a rubber boot labeled "marine" and I was told that all the grapepickers without cabs use that kind. Picked up two bolts for the ROPS too, to mount my angle with and 4 rubber grommets to use as isolaters for the lights. I may get to messing around with it today... in amongst disassembling one wall of kennel runs for my remodeling project, cutting 2x4s and drywall, picking up a new printer because my color one won't feed anymore and I need to print some stuff in color.... just the usual stuff when you finally have a nice day and want to work on an outside project (the lights -- no garage). /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Question: Do you do all the wiring and then slip the conduit over it and what do you do where the wire exits the conduit? Do you cut the conduit, start a new piece, push them close together and wrap the joint with tape? It seems like just letting the wire come out the conduit seam would cut into it a bit...
Also, if I mount the switches in the plastic dash do the need grounded? How would I do this with just the two wire terminals? Thanks and don't worry. Pics to follow when I get it done and operational. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Red_rider · Feb 17, 2005

A lot depends on the access. If I'm running wire in a hard-to-reach spot, I'll put it in the conduit and fish the conduit through. If you can find them, they do make a connector for the wire conduit. I found mine in a local auto parts store. As far as the ends where the wire exits, I usually put a wire tie at the end to keep the wires in - not too tight as to collapse the conduit, but snug. Unless the switch is lighted - doesn't sound like yours is since it is only two terminals) it shouldn't need a ground.

Hope to finish my "new" light bar project up this weekend - calling for cool temps and rain/sleet. Fortunately I have the heated garage to work in. I'll post some pics when done.