Need Help With Hole Spacing On 3-point Stabilizers Please.

   / Need Help With Hole Spacing On 3-point Stabilizers Please. #21  
I know on the Kubota telescoping stabilizers, the swivel joint prevents the stabilizer from acting in compression. So only one side at a time is handling the load, when in tension.
 
   / Need Help With Hole Spacing On 3-point Stabilizers Please. #22  
Richard--I'm wondering about the necessity of having both stabilizers "locked in". Consider that, on a turnbuckle stabilizer system, only one of the lift arms at a time is carrying the side load. That would be the side in tension as the turnbuckle is non-functional in compression.

I'm not saying it'a necessity necssarily. Just saying the strength of the system is diminished. And then the structural strength of each stabilizer alone comes into play. :)
 
   / Need Help With Hole Spacing On 3-point Stabilizers Please. #23  
I know on the Kubota telescoping stabilizers, the swivel joint prevents the stabilizer from acting in compression. So only one side at a time is handling the load, when in tension.

Yes, design increases or decreases this issue. What's most important is minimizing the distance of the slack. The farther the load is allowed to swing before being stopped the more force is placed on the single stabilizer that stops it.
 
   / Need Help With Hole Spacing On 3-point Stabilizers Please. #24  
You do not want any looseness. That allows the implements to bang one way or the other and do some damage. I broke 2 parts of the lift assembly on my 4010 and bend the lift pin that holds the bottom lift arms when I left the turnbuckles a little bit loose.

I gave up using those little pins to secure the turnbuckles and just use tension cords. That way, you can get them tight and don't have to give up anything to get the little pins into place.
 
   / Need Help With Hole Spacing On 3-point Stabilizers Please. #25  
I was always taught to leave at least a little slack in the stabilizers, because over the range of motion of the lift arms, the distance along the stabilizer will vary (ultimately depends on the linkage layout compared to the arc of the lift arms). If you make the stabilizers perfectly snug at one position, they could bind when the lift arms move to another position. The behavior even changes depending on the width of the implement and how it spaces the lift arms. Basically, anything that affects the two relative arcs that the stabilizers and lift arms make when the lift arms swing through their range will play into this.

You want at least a teeny little slop in the 3-pt linkage over the whole range of motion. Doesn't matter where it comes from, but be careful snugging the stabilizers down too much as then you shift the need for slop to the ball ends of the lift arms and the pins on the implement. What I do, after hooking up an implement, is move it to extremes and make sure it still has a little jiggle.
 
   / Need Help With Hole Spacing On 3-point Stabilizers Please.
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I've noticed that working on sidehills can produce a lot of stress on the stabilizers. Pulling an implement in the ground and then raising it with the tractor tilted tends to whip the tractor front end sideways a bit.
 
   / Need Help With Hole Spacing On 3-point Stabilizers Please. #27  
I was always taught to leave at least a little slack in the stabilizers, because over the range of motion of the lift arms, the distance along the stabilizer will vary (ultimately depends on the linkage layout compared to the arc of the lift arms). If you make the stabilizers perfectly snug at one position, they could bind when the lift arms move to another position. The behavior even changes depending on the width of the implement and how it spaces the lift arms. Basically, anything that affects the two relative arcs that the stabilizers and lift arms make when the lift arms swing through their range will play into this.

You want at least a teeny little slop in the 3-pt linkage over the whole range of motion. Doesn't matter where it comes from, but be careful snugging the stabilizers down too much as then you shift the need for slop to the ball ends of the lift arms and the pins on the implement. What I do, after hooking up an implement, is move it to extremes and make sure it still has a little jiggle.

I think that's exactly right. The 3pt geometry isn't exact, so pinning it tightly runs the risk of binding/overloading something, especially over the full range of raising & lowering the implement. A little slack allows all the bits & pieces in the load path to adapt without developing too much stress. Keeping the slack low also minimizes the momentum that the implement can develop before the stabilizer checks its motion.
 

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