Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch

[Kschwennsen]

The thing is even with your air overload system. if the vehicle manufacturer required weight distribution above a certain amount, or the hitch required weight distribution above a certain amount then not using it can get you into some hot water if you are involved in an accident. Some of the new pickup trucks have a 1500 tongue weight 15000 pound towing capacity without weight distributor. But most require weight distribution legally above 500-600 pound tongue weight or 5000-6000 trailer weight. And add on items don't override the manufacturer ratings.

the reason OEMs require WD at a certain load is because of the lift effect on the front axle. The more weight on the back behind the rear axle, the lighter your front axle will get, lowering grip. One of the reasons Gooseneck and 5th wheels are mounted so that the ball/pin is 2"-4" ahead of the rear axle.

 

[Kschwennsen]

Exhibit 1: 4k of trailer, 5-6k of tractor loader & ballast & 1.7k of mower. Weigh Safe hitch says its 1.2-1.5k lbs depending on how I load things. Tows fine even at 75mph down the freeway (I'm usually on back roads or around 65 maybe 70). No WDH.

Exhibit 2: Toy hauler trailer. 12klbs, 1.5k hitch weight & everything properly sorted out according to cat scales (weighed with & without WDH). It tows really twitchy over 65 no matter how I fiddle with the WDH or weights. Not pleasant to tow more than a few hours. Hitch weight is way excessive if you don't have the toy in the back to unload the front.

Blue Ox WDH. Is OK to hitch & unhitch. Never had another WDH to compare it to. Trailer length, surface area & center of balance can be more important than a WDH.View attachment 758343View attachment 758344

Cross winds will push that camper around. I'm not sure your tractor load is as heavy as you think though. My JD 4105 is only 4K so unless you have filled tires, you're lighter.

 

[Kschwennsen]

Sway Control & Weight Distribution | Equal-i-zer® Hitch

Superior sway control technology makes it the best performing sway control hitch on the market, working to keep your family safe, every time you tow.

www.equalizerhitch.com

My vote is for the Equal-I-Zer sway control hitch. As others said, it is a bit fiddly to figure out, but once set up is simple to install and uninstall. I used it on a 22-foot travel trailer on several trips from WA State to Illinois and back. I commonly exceeded a "safe" speed several times (in excess of 80 MPH), and never once had anything cause concern. It was always rock solid: no sway or wiggle, and easy to back up. As another poster said, it may squeak a bit if the bars are dry, but a little grease solves that. Unfortunately, I let it go with my trailer when I sold it. I don't have anything other than a utility trailer now, so don't need it, but they are pricey and I would hate to buy a new one.

The Equal-I-Zer is nice but when you grease the points that squeak/grind, your removing the sway control.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Curt also has their industrial class 5 hitches with a 2.5" receiver tube. Class 5 hitches are tested with extrapolated numbers to the higher ratings.

Maybe. Maybe not.

I've attended destructive testing of hitches, 5th wheels, etc. in a lab setting.
What impressed my the most was how the flimsy looking RV 5th wheels hung in there and didn't completely break apart, long after getting severely deformed. Guess there's something to be said for mild steel.

Anyway, I have 30K rated Torklift receiver. Not because I ever anticipate pulling anything even remotely that heavy as a bumper pull (I prefer using gooseneck trailers), but at least the receiver would hold up if I did.

 

[Bearsixty7]

The Equal-I-Zer is nice but when you grease the points that squeak/grind, your removing the sway control.

Not at all, the torque load that's applied by the bars onto the "L" brackets still has enough friction to provide anti-sway.