Need Some Trailer Advice

jcmseven · Oct 12, 2005

Fellow Posters,

I need some trailer advice. I currently own a 16' tandem trailer with two 3500# axles and brakes on one axle. I have a 2002 Ford F-250 with the Power Stroke diesel and a Banks Power Pack with the Big Hoss module, but without the Banks Brake. It pulls great for this reason. I previously have pulled a John Deere 3720 with loader and various attachments. The tractor would fit, but barely, with say, the loader and a 72" RFM on the trailer. My initial total weight estimate was a bit high, but my later estimate of the weight of that load was 6,600#, trailer included, which put me easily under the axle limit. I recently traded for a 4520 John Deere with a 400x loader and various attachments. It is A LOT heavier. I would estimate the tractor, loader and box blade alone to weigh about 6,200#, which with trailer weight, is #7,800. I have hauled the tractor home from the dealer, which is three miles away, and the truck bowed and bobbed in back quite a bit. It pulled the load fine, but I did not like the fact that the hitch load seemed so heavy. I attributed this in part to the fact the tractor is much too long for the trailer, in addition to being overweight. My question is: I feel I will need at least an 18' trailer to haul this machine. Would I be OK with a hitch mount or do I need to consider a bed mount gooseneck? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each? I do not treasure the thought of drilling holes in my truck bed, but whatever is the safest with this load is my goal. I do not pull much, only about three times monthly, but when I do I will be on the highway several hours and will also have to negotiate some fairly narrow mountain roads (not tiny, though). I use my truck also as a daily driver. I want to ensure that unless I decide one day to get another tractor, the trailer I buy is my last one. I also want to tow with the confidence that I can pull with the power the Banks system gives, with stability and confidence and safety. By the way, my hitch is a Class IV, and I am currently running a 15,000# hitch with a 2000# tongue weight and a 30,000# ball (this part should be OK--by a little bit). Thanks to all for advice.

John M

Thorndike · Oct 13, 2005

In addition to the need for a larger/heavier trailer, is the Banks kit you have installed rated for trailer towing? IE, turbo outlet temps. When working a diesel the exhaust temps rise, sometimes to the point of frying the turbo. Best bet is to find out what Banks says, and get yourself a pyrometer installed to monitor those EGTs.
Now the trailer. I pull tractors/trailers all over the place with my 2000 Stroker. I use a 20' bumper pull, 12K trailer, with around 9000lbs loads. No problem. The longer trailer will allow you to move your machine as needed to properly balance your load. My trailer has 2/7K axles, brakes on both, with 2' beavertail. I also use 3/8" grade 70 tiedown chains with ratchet binders.
It's good your considering safety, too many others just have no clue. Look at how many 1/2 tonners and SUV's you see out there, terribly overloaded. BE CAREFUL!!!

Bird · Oct 13, 2005

( whatever is the safest with this load is my goal )

Both gooseneck and conventional trailers have their place, but if safety is your goal, in my opinion, the gooseneck is by far the better choice. It virtually eliminates swaying or fishtailing and I think, for most people, it's much easier to back and maneuver when you get used to it.

Farmwithjunk · Oct 13, 2005

I use a Dodge 3500 to pull a 20+5' gooseneck, hauling (at times) a 6400LB tractor, and USUALLY some sort of implement attached to it. That gives me7500 to 8500 of load.

I ALSO have a "bumper-pull" equipment trailer. It's 18'+2'. I won't even consider hauling the same tractor on that trailer anymore. The gooseneck is that much easier to haul with.

With a good hitch, properly installed, you can scale a percentage of your load on the front axle with a gooseneck. That gives you some added control. (Better balance on the truck)

You don't have the "leverage effect" that hooking to the hitch 3' behind the rear axle gives you with the bumper hitch. (resulting in the bobbing up and down...)

After having to deal with a couple panic stops while towing each. I'd MUCH rather deal with that pulling the gooseneck.

All in all, once you've dealt with a gooseneck, you won't ever regret NOT having a bumper hitch trailer. A positive experience for sure.

A further note. When you pick your trailer, get a couple feet LONGER than you need. That allows you some "adjustment" when positioning a load on the trailer. That allows you to center weight where you want it or NEED it. (i.e. On the back of the truck or more weight on the trailer axles.) Under most conditions, I load my heaviest tractor where it's almost 4' from the front-most position on the trailer deck. That lets me carry just the right amount of weight on the truck, and MOST of the weight on the trailer axles. (Goosenecks seem to be far more forgiving if and when you load too heavy on the trailer tail end. I've never experienced the trailer "weaving" like bumper pulls do when you load tail-heavy)

From all that I've learned over the years, trailers are like garages and barns. No matter how big you go with them, you'll always find the need for BIGGER. Give youself room to grow. Get an extra few feet. (My truck is a quad-cab, long bed. The trailer, like I mentioned, is 20+5' deck. The entire rig is 54' front to back. When I got the trailer, I couldn't imagine how I was going to get in and out of my driveway! With-in a few days, I figured out that ANOTHER advantage of a gooseneck is increased manuverability. Even on the narrow, winding road we live on, I've never regretted buying this trailer. (Also to consider, my trailer is 102" WIDE.)

Hope this helps.

KAB · Oct 13, 2005

You have already received some good advise but let me diecly answer your original question. YES, you can tow a hitch mount with your truck, but it would require weight distributing hitch. Go longer than 18' it gives you room to adjust the load better. And as already indicated a gooseneck will pull better than a reg hitch mount. The down side is that you will not be able to carry much on the bed of the truck. If that is important you will need to either make sure you have room on the trailer or use a hitch mount.

Not speaking from experience but from other input, there are people that do not like backing a gooseneck trailer. If you think that this might be an issue try to get your trailer dealer to let you back up a gooseneck trailer.

Kurt

Egon · Oct 13, 2005

Gooseneck for sure.

I pull a bumper hitch trailer but only because there is a camper sitting in the truck box.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Farmwithjunk · Oct 13, 2005

(

Not speaking from experience but from other input, there are people that do not like backing a gooseneck trailer. If you think that this might be an issue try to get your trailer dealer to let you back up a gooseneck trailer.

Kurt )

I'm at a loss as to where that would come from. 10 to 1, I'd MUCH prefer backing a gooseneck of a bumper hitch. ESPECIALLY a long trailer!

hunterridgefarm · Oct 13, 2005

I had to check my log-in name to make sure someone had not changed it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

You are from western NC, so am I.
You have a 16', two 3500# axles, brakes on one axle, so do I.
You have a 2002 F250 power stroke, so do I.
you need a longer, larger GVW trailer, so do I.

I recently added an FEL to my 3130 and it fills the 16' trailer, and with loaded tires and box blade I am over max weight. Not enough room for bush hog.

I have a hide-a-way gooseneck in my truck and currently looking to buy a gooseneck trailer. I have a fifth-wheel camper with a gooseneck adapter on it. The camper is 32', 9000 lbs and pulls much better than the 16' dovetail bumper pull. I can back both with no problem but the gooseneck backs, pulls, and handles much easier.

I to want this trailer to be the last one I buy and have to take into account I am buying a 50-70 HP utility tractor in '06. So I am currently looking at 20-25' with 7000 lb axles. I just need to go measure the utility size with FEL and bush hog to determin length.

One thing I was told by a dealership in Lenoir, NC. If your trailer is rated for 10,000 GVW in NC you need a Class A drivers license. If not it is a $300.00 fine whether it is loaded or empty. I live about a mile from HP/DMV and plan on stopping in to find out if this is true.

What area in western NC do you live, maybe we can buy from the same dealer and get a BIG BIG discount. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Bird · Oct 13, 2005

( I'm at a loss as to where that would come from. 10 to 1, I'd MUCH prefer backing a gooseneck )

Well, I think I know where it came from; someone posted a message recently with a comment about having a problem learning to back a gooseneck. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif But like you, and everyone else I've known who has pulled both, I'd much prefer backing the gooseneck or fifth-wheel to having the pivot point behind the bumper.

KAB · Oct 13, 2005

Huntingridgefarm
Bird has it right. That and watching a rental delivery driver try to back a gooseneck trailer into a drive one day. He took about 4 tries where I would have a bumper mount in 1 shot. Did you also notice that I said that a GN would tow better? Did you notice where I suggested he might want to give it a try? If he does not like and had a chance to find out before hand but did not, then what? Never did I say that I recommened one over the other and never will. I did try to point out common complaints of goosnecks as well as an advantage?

I try to give both views just not what works for me. (safety issues excluded even then it can depend) I try to listen to both sides and find the truth somewhere in the middle. In the case of this website that is usually something called personal preferrence. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Kurt