Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler

   / Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler #11  
Momboy007 said:
Hello All,
I do not think I can go the down pipe route, as much as I want to, it looks like my loader frame would be in the way.
If I cut the pipe shorter and install a flapper, how much louder is the tractor, it seems pretty loud right now, without being cut
Thanks all,
Rick
The only extra noise is at low idle as the flapper will open and close with exhaust pulses which makes a slow clatter sound. No big deal to me.
 
   / Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler #12  
Harrygoodwrench said:
The only extra noise is at low idle as the flapper will open and close with exhaust pulses which makes a slow clatter sound. No big deal to me.

Turn the flapper valve so that the hinge is facing you. It should not be any noisier than the stock exhaust. If the noise bothers you, ear plugs or ear muffs can really help.
 
   / Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler #13  
Dave_Lilly said:
Turn the flapper valve so that the hinge is facing you. It should not be any noisier than the stock exhaust. If the noise bothers you, ear plugs or ear muffs can really help.



Good point about the hinge facing you as then the majority of the exhaust is directed away from you. The clanking of the flapper opening and closing is not loud and only occurs at idle. I actually like it as if I'm away from the tractor I can hear it which lets me know its still running.
The flapper valve keeps rain, birds, bats, bees, rodents and whatever out of the exhaust too.
 
   / Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler #14  
Dave_Lilly said:
Turn the flapper valve so that the hinge is facing you.
Understand though, that doing so will make it vulnerable to low hanging branches. I too faced mine so it would open forward, thinking that it would block some exhaust fumes. But the first time I mowed along a treeline, I bent the sucker backwards. Bought a new one, faced it with the hinge facing forward. That way the branches would just try to close it, not tear it off.

That said - if low hanging branches or marginal overhead clearance aren't a problem - having the flapper open forward should work just fine.

//greg//
 
   / Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler #15  
Here is what I did with mine this evening, using the stock muffler and some scrap bent pipe and steel strap I had lying around. I got lucky in that the pipe I had was bent just right. This cost me $4.95 for a 2 bolt weld flange. If I hadn't have had the pipe, it would have cost me another $15 or so for the pipe and bends.





 
   / Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler #16  
Ron, did you make your own FEL? I have never seen one like that on a Jinma. How does the single curl cylinder work?

Chris
 
   / Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler #17  
Diamondpilot said:
Ron, did you make your own FEL? I have never seen one like that on a Jinma. How does the single curl cylinder work?

Chris

No, this is one of Rays loaders from Coldwater Tractors. But if I was to build one, it would probably be pretty similar, which is one of the reasons I bought it. The single curl cylinder has worked fine for nearly 3 years now. It makes for fewer parts and requires that the bucket be a bit more rigid, which is a good thing IMO.
 
   / Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Hello RonMar,
That is a fine looking exhaust and I want to do mine just like that. I have a 304 and I think the exhaust manifold on mine heads straight up.
Can you give me more detailed instruction on how to do this?
Thank you in advance,
Rick
 
   / Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler #19  
Mine also used to come out and straight up. I can help, but you might not want to do yours exactly like the one I pictured.

After a little running and temperature tests, I am going to revise mine a bit and add an additional chamber down at the end that will further difuses the exhaust and direct it out the sides. I posted this mod on another forum, and after some discussion, some were concerned about fire hazard in their dry climate with the straight down exhaust. Not a big worry here for me because it is so wet, but this config in a dryer climate could have fire danger risks, especially when the diesel exhaust spits a chunk of glowing carbon.

For giggles and grins, I ran a load test day before yesterday and measured exhaust temps. 650F at the manifold, and a little over 400F down at the exhaust outlet. But the spot on the ground under where I ran the test for about 10 minutes, now has a nice little round yellow/brown spot where I cooked the grass and moss. This ground was prettymuch saturated as it had 1/2" of snow on it that morning. This is not so much an issue for me if moveing, but running the backhoe in one spot under load could make issues. Moving thru tinder dry grass like I am sure you get in your climate could have some serious issues...

Your 304 should be similar to my 284, but I am not familliar with the specifics of your frame. If you can post some pics like the ones I shot, with one being a closeup of the exhaust manifold on the side of the engine, I can surely make some reccomendations. Do you have a MIG welder?
 
   / Need to lower my Up Pipe Muffler
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Hello Again Ron,
I was looking at the tractor this morning and compared it to your pictures and it is the same out of the exhaust manifold. I do live in Southern California and it is dry when I mow etc, so I would not want a fire hazard, the good news is I am not stationary much (No back hoe)
So what do you recommend, I do have a MIG welder, but do not know how to use it yet and no 208 in my barn, YET!

Thanks again,
Rick
 

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