clemsonfor
Super Member
looks like you need new orings in those lift arms Carey. I got tired of mine seeping and finially replaced mine
New 1610D owner questions
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careyo63
Elite Member
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- 77 Yanmar YM2000 63 Ford 2000
I did replace a axle seal that did leak a lot. I guess I do need to at least wash it. I can't remember how long it's been since I had to add JD303. When I replaced seal I believe.
I would suspicion your feedback rod is out of adjustment. But then again, I may be uninformed. I have not seen a grey market with a neutral position on the lever but I'm sure I haven't seen everything.
careyo63
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2012
- Messages
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- Tractor
- 77 Yanmar YM2000 63 Ford 2000
The lift arm height adj. needs to be set. It relieves the pressure to pump preventing the arms from lifting and hitting tractor.
careyo63
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2012
- Messages
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- Tractor
- 77 Yanmar YM2000 63 Ford 2000
You may not have the height adj. it was a 1510 in my book that might have it. Then I was looking closer to the pic. of your lift handle. See the 2 Philips head on the high side. The first one may be the stop. It looks to may have be loosened and moved to the side letting the handle move back further. Try to loosen the screw and move it back into position stopping the handle.
If that doesn't work just find a nut and bolt and put in position to stop the handle from going to far. Right before the lift arms stop,hitting the tractor or the pump stops...
If that doesn't work just find a nut and bolt and put in position to stop the handle from going to far. Right before the lift arms stop,hitting the tractor or the pump stops...
evofxdwg
Bronze Member
Nice tractor! I recommend purchase of the owners and parts manual and read owners from cover to cover. (The parts manual I have has Japanese part names but it does have exploded views with readable pn's)
I doubt if it has glow plugs (not even sure if it is an option). My 1610D has thermo-start (TS) indicated on the ignition switch. This function simply warms the fuel before entering injection system. I usually don't need it here in middle GA temps so not sure it works on mine.
I give it 1/2 to 3/4 throttle when cold starting (hard to judge with loose linkage) and back off a few secs after start. Tractor doesn't seem to care as long as it is off of zero throttle and not real cold outside. (I don't remember what the manual says)
That lever labeled "engine stop" in your pix is labeled "decomp" on mine. I always just shut the throttle to stop engine. However sometimes the linkage gets loose/mis-adjusted and I use the decomp lever then. I use decomp lever, after a few seconds of TS to start easier in winter temps. (Even though I'm not sure my TS is working).
Foot throttle comes in handy when you need to change direction/speed/torque often, such as when moving dirt or powering up a hill. I found that moving dirt using a fixed gearbox range (like Med or even HI if you have a soft pile to ram the bucket into), the Powershift selector (no clutch) for R,1,2,3 as needed , and foot throttle speeds up the task. It takes a little practice! You will like the Powershift for that kind of task. Just be sure there is no-one around and be aware of obstacles as you will start slinging that sucker around!
I doubt if it has glow plugs (not even sure if it is an option). My 1610D has thermo-start (TS) indicated on the ignition switch. This function simply warms the fuel before entering injection system. I usually don't need it here in middle GA temps so not sure it works on mine.
I give it 1/2 to 3/4 throttle when cold starting (hard to judge with loose linkage) and back off a few secs after start. Tractor doesn't seem to care as long as it is off of zero throttle and not real cold outside. (I don't remember what the manual says)
That lever labeled "engine stop" in your pix is labeled "decomp" on mine. I always just shut the throttle to stop engine. However sometimes the linkage gets loose/mis-adjusted and I use the decomp lever then. I use decomp lever, after a few seconds of TS to start easier in winter temps. (Even though I'm not sure my TS is working).
Foot throttle comes in handy when you need to change direction/speed/torque often, such as when moving dirt or powering up a hill. I found that moving dirt using a fixed gearbox range (like Med or even HI if you have a soft pile to ram the bucket into), the Powershift selector (no clutch) for R,1,2,3 as needed , and foot throttle speeds up the task. It takes a little practice! You will like the Powershift for that kind of task. Just be sure there is no-one around and be aware of obstacles as you will start slinging that sucker around!
evofxdwg
Bronze Member
After reading thru the string, I would recommend:
Don't assume a nice paint job implies good mechanical condition. On mine, I had to do the following not long after I got it:
Change coolant, fan belt and new fan (blades had big chips), blow out radiator fins and screen.
Change crankcase oil & filter.
New koyker loader frame bolts were loose! (Mine has the subframe brackets and struts). I added lock tite and tightened and try to check them once in a while.
Changed front end diff lube. Then I noticed bad leak at big horizontal seals. I tore down front steering knuckles and found rusty upper steering bearings and pitted housing sealing surface. I cleaned up and replaced bearings and seals and still leaked with 90wt lube. I replaced with 140wt and still a little seep but holds lube level for several seasons. (You definitely need the exploded view dawgs for this and document disassembly order)
Voltage reg failed about a year after I got it. Replaced with hoye part.
Footboards were rusted out under rubber pads. I used as excuse to get blast cabinet and plasma cutter. Borrowed welder. Removed one footboard, cut out bad, blasted, welded in diamond plate section, painted and replaced. Other waiting on roundtuit.
Numerous other minor repairs over the years due to age (hydro hoses are $$$!) and occasional use (abuse) as a bulldozer!
Don't assume a nice paint job implies good mechanical condition. On mine, I had to do the following not long after I got it:
Change coolant, fan belt and new fan (blades had big chips), blow out radiator fins and screen.
Change crankcase oil & filter.
New koyker loader frame bolts were loose! (Mine has the subframe brackets and struts). I added lock tite and tightened and try to check them once in a while.
Changed front end diff lube. Then I noticed bad leak at big horizontal seals. I tore down front steering knuckles and found rusty upper steering bearings and pitted housing sealing surface. I cleaned up and replaced bearings and seals and still leaked with 90wt lube. I replaced with 140wt and still a little seep but holds lube level for several seasons. (You definitely need the exploded view dawgs for this and document disassembly order)
Voltage reg failed about a year after I got it. Replaced with hoye part.
Footboards were rusted out under rubber pads. I used as excuse to get blast cabinet and plasma cutter. Borrowed welder. Removed one footboard, cut out bad, blasted, welded in diamond plate section, painted and replaced. Other waiting on roundtuit.
Numerous other minor repairs over the years due to age (hydro hoses are $$$!) and occasional use (abuse) as a bulldozer!
clemsonfor
Super Member
Just skimming the last post. DO NOT use the decompression valve to stop the engine . Just shut the fuel off, it will stop. If the lever sticks or is slow to return, just reach down with your hand and pull it closed.
