New 1850 (and probably everyone else) grease zerk

[woodlandfarms]

I am going to rebuild the center section of my PT today, and will post pix. But I wanted to let everyone know I found a new grease zerk unmentioned in any of my paperwork.

On the bolt / nut on the lower part of the center section. My tractor has a grease zerk on the knuckle to lube up the lower center section bearing. Well, on this new "bolt" there is a grease zerk on the bottom. I have been using the one on the knuckle, but never knew about the one on the bottom...

Carl

 

[J_J]

I am going to rebuild the center section of my PT today, and will post pix. But I wanted to let everyone know I found a new grease zerk unmentioned in any of my paperwork.

On the bolt / nut on the lower part of the center section. My tractor has a grease zerk on the knuckle to lube up the lower center section bearing. Well, on this new "bolt" there is a grease zerk on the bottom. I have been using the one on the knuckle, but never knew about the one on the bottom...

Carl

Carl, Pt has about the worst documentation of their products, than any other manufacturer. It's like they do not want to put out the data, pictures, and diagrams, and what they do put out is not always correct. They have been criticized from day one, and they still don't get it. I don't think they will ever change, with the current staff, and owner.

Are you going to seperate the PT, and replace all the bearings and pins, etc,
otherwise, tighten everything up? Good luck to you.

 

[MossRoad]

I am going to rebuild the center section of my PT today, and will post pix. But I wanted to let everyone know I found a new grease zerk unmentioned in any of my paperwork.

On the bolt / nut on the lower part of the center section. My tractor has a grease zerk on the knuckle to lube up the lower center section bearing. Well, on this new "bolt" there is a grease zerk on the bottom. I have been using the one on the knuckle, but never knew about the one on the bottom...

Carl

Our PT425 doesn't have one on the knuckle, just one underneath coming up through the end of the bolt.

 

[KentT]

Our PT425 doesn't have one on the knuckle, just one underneath coming up through the end of the bolt.

Mine also, of course I think it's configuration is essentially identical to yours...

 

[Bob999]

The manual that came with my 1845, on the page headed "Service Instructions" includes the following:

"Grease the two grease fittings in the center section...."

On my machine there is a zerk fitting at both the top and the bottom of the center connection.

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

The manual that came with my 1845, on the page headed "Service Instructions" includes the following:

"Grease the two grease fittings in the center section...."

On my machine there is a zerk fitting at both the top and the bottom of the center connection.

My 1845 has 3 zerks. One on top center ball joint pointing up, one on the bottom joint, pointing down, and one on the bottom joint, in the side of the ball joint housing, that you can reach from the right side.

Speaking of zerks, I had a spindle on my mower come loose, drop down and break off the zerk. We finally had to disassemble the spindle and put it on a bench, wear out three drills getting it out, and then tapping for a new one. I called Terry to see if they'd gotten a special on surplus case hardened zerks. It sure would have been nicer if it had been soft enough for an easy out to grip it.

 

[woodlandfarms]

On the 1850 manual it says Grease the three grease fittings on the center section. In the diagram it points to the grease fitting under the cover that holds the upper connection arm and the upper and lower joint connections. It does not mention 2 zerks on the lower connections

 

[toy]

Charlie Iliff I like to use left hand drill bits to get out broken bolts and zerks and such. I have mentioned this before but when youre drilling in reverse and the bit gets a bite biggest part of the time it will spin out the broke off bolt or zerk without having to even use an easy out, have you ever tried one. When putting in new grease zerks I don't tighten them very tight that way they are easier to get out if they break. The trouble with easyouts that I have had is when you start turning them they seem to sweel out whatever you are trying to remove.

 

[Bob999]

My 1845 has 3 zerks. One on top center ball joint pointing up, one on the bottom joint, pointing down, and one on the bottom joint, in the side of the ball joint housing, that you can reach from the right side.

Speaking of zerks, I had a spindle on my mower come loose, drop down and break off the zerk. We finally had to disassemble the spindle and put it on a bench, wear out three drills getting it out, and then tapping for a new one. I called Terry to see if they'd gotten a special on surplus case hardened zerks. It sure would have been nicer if it had been soft enough for an easy out to grip it.

After reading your post I began to wonder if I had a grease fitting I didn't know about. I carefully inspected both the top and botton ball joint fitting and there is only one zerk on each.

Apparently this is another area where PT has made changes over time. As I recall you purchased your 1845 a year before I purchased mine.

 

[ponytug]

It sounds as if the zerks are vintage, and model dependent. To add to the mix, my 2007 1445 has four zerks for three bearings in the center section;
1) forward, in the tunnel, under the warning plate
2) top bearing, right side access
3) bottom bearing right side access
4) bottom bearing left side access

I asked Terry if #3 and #4 were different, he said, no, just ease of access. There is no bottom side zerk on mine.

I hope this helps,

Peter

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

Charlie Iliff I like to use left hand drill bits to get out broken bolts and zerks and such. I have mentioned this before but when youre drilling in reverse and the bit gets a bite biggest part of the time it will spin out the broke off bolt or zerk without having to even use an easy out, have you ever tried one. When putting in new grease zerks I don't tighten them very tight that way they are easier to get out if they break. The trouble with easyouts that I have had is when you start turning them they seem to sweel out whatever you are trying to remove.

I'll look for a set. Certainly I've not had good luck with easy outs. I have three different designs of those, and none work except on things that are pretty loose to begin with.
This zerk was 1/4x28 straight thread, which should have been easy since the shoulder was gone, but it might as well have been welded in.

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

There is no bottom side zerk on mine

Peter

I should have mentioned that for the first few grease cycles there wasn't a bottom zerk on mine either. That time, the broken zerk came out easily. Peter, the bottom side one is actually pointing nearly straight back, but is a 90 degree zerk. If you turn all the way left, you may see a plug (or a broken zerk).
I think the two bottom zerks on mine fill the same cavities.

 

[ponytug]

Dear Charlie,

I apologize for my lack of clarity. I have two zerks on either side of the bottom joint, but not the underside of the bottom joint. I understood Carl to write he had a zerk on the underside of the bottom joint.

I can second the use of left hand drill bits. Something about the vibration/heating seems to do wonders for removing bolts. If you don't have a drill press, or it is inaccessible, I find that one of the gizmos that holds the drill bit square to the work surface to be really useful.

All the best,

Peter

I should have mentioned that for the first few grease cycles there wasn't a bottom zerk on mine either. That time, the broken zerk came out easily. Peter, the bottom side one is actually pointing nearly straight back, but is a 90 degree zerk. If you turn all the way left, you may see a plug (or a broken zerk).
I think the two bottom zerks on mine fill the same cavities.

 

[toy]

I'll look for a set. Certainly I've not had good luck with easy outs. I have three different designs of those, and none work except on things that are pretty loose to begin with.
This zerk was 1/4x28 straight thread, which should have been easy since the shoulder was gone, but it might as well have been welded in.

I got some of mine at a locally owned hardware store and then I found a set of them at lowes. Some places if you ask about left hand drill bits they will look at you funny like you are trying to pull one on them. When you start drilling in reverse and it digs into the metal cutting it, it will heat up and often back right out. On the easy outs I like the square ones the best seems like the spiral looking ones just swell out the peice you are trying to remove, as you can probably testify to.