New 2 me YANMAR 2210 BD 4X4- NOW-SERVICE QUESTIONS?

[RUMBLON]

OK, I wanted to thank you guys for the advise thus far. I actually had a death in the family, so I dropped this tractor off on my acreage and left it and have not even looked at it yet. I live 30 miles from my acreage and will be headed up to play with it tomorrow afternoon so I want to get what I can.

That said I have a couple questions. I hope I dont sound too stupid as I have not had a chance to check it out yet. I am a car guy not a tractor guy so I apologize for my stupidity in advance.

I am going to do the following services and have listed each.

OIL: OK 15-40 WT in diesel form. WINSTON gave me an idea on the filter.

ANTI FREEZE. 50 50 and I guess that PEAKS SIERRA is good.

FRONT AXLE: 90 WT GEAR OIL? Any particular brand? And how hard to change? This is for the front differential.

Hydraulic fluid: OK here is where I am confused. some of the advise says I can use ATF or the JOHN DEER compatible JD 303 spec oil?

Ok, also confused here- The trans? I want to change the transmission fluid, I dont know these rigs yet, so I dont have an understanding of how it works? Is there transmission fluid to be changed or is it like a vehicle stick and no fluid or is it combined with some other system?

REAR END: Should I mess with this like the front or is it different and if I should change it, how hard and which fluid?

anything else to change or be concerned with?

which engine size are these? any ideas and how about plugs, ect?

Thanks again

RUMBLON

 

[California]

Oil & antifreeze - answered. The cooling system is same as any Japanese car.

Front axle any good 90 wt. Might take a whole day to drain out beneath each hub. (and a day to refill - it has to go through some tight spots). You might find water; these were used in rice paddies.

Hydraulic system, rear axle, gear portion of transmission, Powershift portion of transmission (same technology as an automotive A/T) - all share a common sump. Deere 303 is an ancient trans/hydraulic spec that Yanmar specified in their manuals. Later versions of UTF (Universal Tractor Fluid) will flow better at low temp etc and are a recommended step up from the Yanmar-specified 303. Get a 5 gallon bucket and expect to use 80% of it. After draining clean the oil filter screen. Its under a triangular plate near where the large hydraulic return line exits the transmission. This cover plate can be resealed with RTV sealer; a new paper gasket is nice but not essential.

Use a lube gun on the steering fittings and the pedals. There may be a fitting on the PTO lever.

No spark plugs, and diesel injector systems run decades before any maintenance is needed. But check the fuel filter, probably should buy a new filter element. One more thing to check if you need good cold weather starting is the ThermoStart module. Looks like a spark plug, screwed into the intake manifold, with a tiny fuel bottle to feed it. These modules need to be replaced occasionally. Not critical for warm weather use.


Engine size: click on my Profile then my Home Page. There's a brochure there for YM240. Your engine is near-identical; I think your extra 2 hp is just the injector settings. Its 70 cubic inch, 1150 cc.

Enjoy!

 

[RUMBLON]

Oil & antifreeze - answered. The cooling system is same as any Japanese car.

Front axle any good 90 wt. Might take a whole day to drain out beneath each hub. (and a day to refill - it has to go through some tight spots). You might find water; these were used in rice paddies.

Hydraulic system, rear axle, gear portion of transmission, Powershift portion of transmission (same technology as an automotive A/T) - all share a common sump. Deere 303 is an ancient trans/hydraulic spec that Yanmar specified in their manuals. Later versions of UTF (Universal Tractor Fluid) will flow better at low temp etc and are a recommended step up from the Yanmar-specified 303. Get a 5 gallon bucket and expect to use 80% of it. After draining clean the oil filter screen. Its under a triangular plate near where the large hydraulic return line exits the transmission. This cover plate can be resealed with RTV sealer; a new paper gasket is nice but not essential.

Use a lube gun on the steering fittings and the pedals. There may be a fitting on the PTO lever.

No spark plugs, and diesel injector systems run decades before any maintenance is needed. But check the fuel filter, probably should buy a new filter element. One more thing to check if you need good cold weather starting is the ThermoStart module. Looks like a spark plug, screwed into the intake manifold, with a tiny fuel bottle to feed it. These modules need to be replaced occasionally. Not critical for warm weather use.


Engine size: click on my Profile then my Home Page. There's a brochure there for YM240. Your engine is near-identical; I think your extra 2 hp is just the injector settings. Its 70 cubic inch, 1150 cc.

Enjoy!

Thanks CALIFORNIA that helps a lot too. Everyone has been very helpful. I know MOPAR 440s 383 340's and the small stuff 318s and the slant 6 like the back of my hand but am new to anything Japanese. I owned a "DAVID BROWN" tractor 2X4 FOR a while that was nice at 72 HP but only 2x4. I bought it for 2 /12 acres I had in Northern Nevada. Now I have 175 acres but this little rig will be for a garden, cleaning stalls, LOTS AND LOTS of post holes and fencing.

Cant wait to get started.

THANKS AGAIN
RUMBLON

 

[RUMBLON]

OK, I have my first of many dumb questions? I cant find the PDF manual that someone sent me ro check and cant find it on the net. I drained the oil and found out how to remove and replace the oil filter. NOW I NEED TO FILL IT UP? There is no 'OIL FILL" atop the engine like a car? Where do I fill it up at?? I dont use the same place that I check the oil at do I? It seems like a big odd "OIL CHECK" DIPSTICK to me? Is this where I add it too? I figured it would be on top somewhere?

I will keep searching on line but at least Im sitting and doing maint an din hurry. Thanks for any help in advance.

Dave

 

[careyo63]

Orange Cap in the Pic.
yanmar 2210

 

[winston1]

I do believe the dipstick hole is the proper place to pour oil in on the 2t90 engine. Sending the pdf again.

 

[winston1]

Orange Cap in the Pic.
yanmar 2210

What orange cap?

 

[careyo63]

Under the Starter?

 

[winston1]

Under the Starter?

Boy do I feel like a dummy. Just assumed you had attached the wrong picture, to stupid to see the cap. My apology to you Carey.

 

[careyo63]

Typical for me! I really have to watch myself. :duh: